Author: Caitlin

Fragrance writer and perfume collector!

What I Wore This Week

September 22, 2019

Hi, guys! Well, we’ve made it through another week. I had a bit of a mixed week. I’m making an effort to incorporate Bas de Soie into my rotation more often because I think it does well at this time of year. I’d also forgotten how great the No. 5 EDT is, so I’m hoping to get more wear out of that one, too. It just shines in this weather!

  • Monday: Ginger Piccante by Guerlain
  • Tuesday: Bas de Soie by Serge
  • Wednesday: Chanel No. 5 EDT
  • Thursday: Terre d’Iris by Miller Harris
  • Friday: Chanel Gabrielle
  • Saturday: Verveine Agrumes EDT by L’Occitane

What did you all wear this week?

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The photo was taken by me. Nothing in this post was gifted.

1932 EDT by Chanel

September 18, 2019

Notes: aldehydes, neroli, bergamot, jasmine, rose, ylang-ylang, carnation, lilac, vetiver, orris root, opoponax, sandalwood, incense, musk, ambrette, vanilla, and coumarin.

Chanel has now infamously discontinued the EDT concentrations of its Exclusifs collection in favor of EDP compositions. The driving factor seems to have been money, since the EDPs debuted with quite a price hike. There is also the fact that longevity and “performance” now seem to be vaunted above all else in fragrance reviews on social media. It’s what everyone wants to know. How does it perform? I personally don’t mind an EDT or even a good Eau de Cologne concentration (I clearly love Jo Malone). And I think 1932 is a stellar example of of a Jacques Polge EDT composition, so that’s what this post is all about.

Like a classic Chanel composition, 1932 opens with a familiar dose of aldehydes, bright neroli, and sparkling bergamot. Then Chanel florals start making their way in with a soft rose, jasmine, and ylang-ylang. I get a hint of carnation, but it’s mostly rose for me. I do not get a lilac here. The ylang-ylang is the stand-out note for me. It’s a such a creamy and rich ylang note without taking over the composition. It’s not too yellow or banana pudding, yet it gives you just enough of a yellow floral impression. The best part is that it blends seamlessly into the base notes of sandalwood and vanilla.

I love the base and the dry down of 1932. It’s my favorite aspect of this composition. I first received my samples in the spring. At that time, my skin really amplified the florals. When I wear 1932 now in September, the base notes come through more prominently. I typically don’t love musk, but it blends so well with the vanilla and coumarin here. The sandalwood is noticeable too but, again, it doesn’t dominate. The base really is seamless. It’s such a yummy and delicious blend, it could almost be edible. But 1932 is not a gourmand. It has that balance and refinement that marks it as a Chanel scent.

I find it interesting to  look back on Jacques Polge’s compositions, particularly now that his Exclusifs have all been reformulated. His 1932 EDT smells like such a classic, that I could envision it being part of the main Chanel fragrance line. I could see it fitting in somewhere between the Coco EDT and Allure. And I don’t mean that as a knock against 1932. I think it demonstrates the cohesion of Jacques Polge’s work for Chanel. Olivier Polge still seems to be searching for that cohesive and classic Chanel composition. His work has been hit or miss so far. I think if Gabrielle had a deeper base similar to 1932, it would be a surefire hit, but that wasn’t the brief for Gabrielle.

By the way, I’ve heard rumblings that No. 19 and Cristalle Eau Verte are headed for a more limited distribution. They will be available from Chanel boutiques and and the Chanel website, but may no longer be available from larger department stores and counters.

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I purchased samples of 1932 and 28 La Pausa from ebay. The Exclusif EDTs are definitely still circulating out there on ebay, but the full bottles go for a hefty price.

The info on notes is via fragrantica.

The photo was taken by me. The background image is from the Chanel S/S 2019 magazine.

Nothing in this post was gifted to me.

What I Wore This Week

September 15, 2019

Hi, everyone! We made it to another Sunday, so I’m back with my weekly scent round-up. The weather was very hot and humid this week. It got up to 90 degrees a couple of days, which is not my favorite for September weather! I definitely wore a few of my hot weather scents instead of my Fall scents this week.

  • Monday: Cinéma by YSL
  • Tuesday: Chanel Cristalle Eau Verte
  • Wednesday: L’Eau Chic by Parfums de Nicolai
  • Thursday: Magnolia Nobile by Acqua di Parma
  • Friday: Figue Amère by Miller Harris
  • Saturday: Honeysuckle & Davana by Jo Malone

What did you all wear this week?

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The photo was taken by me. Nothing in this post was gifted.

Io by Chris Rusak

September 11, 2019

Notes: incense, soil tincture, cedar, peat, cypress leaf, labdanum, dried peppers, smoke, and tree resins.

Io is first and foremost an incense composition, but not in your typical way. I am Catholic and grew up going to Catholic school, so my immediate incense association is with attending mass. I think one of the reasons I’m so drawn to Io is that it is decidedly not a church incense. It’s not necessarily a warm and snuggly scent to me either, although it’s very appropriate for Autumn.

I’m describing what Io is not, but what does it actually smell like? On first spray, the soil tincture comes through most prominently to me. It’s the pure smell of nature. You can almost feel the texture of the dirt. It’s very primal. Then, just in case the smell of actual dirt isn’t enough nature for you, the unmistakable smell of forest fire smoke wafts through along with an intense, black cedar wood. Yes, indeed, we are well out of the realm of church incense here! The opening of Io is elemental. It’s earth and fire and blackened wood.

So, where is the incense? Give it some time. Io’s powerful opening takes about 20 minutes to settle down on my skin. The swirling smoke dies down to a more gentle waft of dry incense. The intense earthy soil note also settles, but the composition retains that textural aspect. It’s dry in texture, almost flinty, even. But, what strikes me, is how rich the resins feel. It just goes to show that you don’t always need to amp up creamy vanilla or amber accords to create a richness of depth. Io’s resinous base has an elegance to it because of the balance between richness and texture.

I said that I don’t find Io particularly cuddly or snuggly. It’s not a comfort scent for me. It’s meditative, which is different than pure comfort. I wear Io in the evenings at home. It’s September and it’s Virgo season. I’ve been getting back to my to-do lists and my daily routines. Io serves me well in my nighttime routine when I do evening yoga and my skincare routine. Io has a sense of grounded earthiness, but it also has a spiritual or cerebral component with the resins and incense. Io is a great companion for this transitional time of year, as we all try to ground ourselves and find our footing between the seasons.

*I’m friendly with Chris on social media. I gave him a heads up that I was planning to write this post about Io just so he would be aware of it. This post is not sponsored content. Chris actually has a note on his site stating that he doesn’t do influencer giveaways or content of that nature.

Edited to add: Chris is super friendly to talk to and, best of all, is a perfume junkie. He can be found on twitter @chrisrusak and on instagram @chris.rusak.perfume — if you have any questions for him!

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The photo of my sample was taken by me. The information on raw materials and notes is via Fragrantica and Chris Rusak’s site. As stated, nothing in this post was sponsored or gifted.

What I Wore This Week

September 8, 2019

Hi, everyone! I’m here with my usual scent round-up. This week was a bit of a random mix. We’re starting to get that Fall weather where it’s cool in the mornings but then warms up by the afternoon. I’m trying to adjust my clothing wardrobe and also my fragrance wardrobe accordingly!

  • Monday: L’Absolu for Her by Narciso Rodriguez
  • Tuesday: Chanel Paris — Deauville
  • Wednesday: La Religieuse by Serge Lutens
  • Thursday: Figue Amère by Miller Harris
  • Friday: L’Eau Chic by Parfums de Nicolai
  • Saturday: Rosenthal by Hendley

What did you all wear this week?

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The photo was taken by me. Nothing in this post was gifted.

Now Sampling: Rogue Perfumery Part 2

September 4, 2019

Hi, everyone!

Happy Wednesday! I’m here with the second part of my initial thoughts on the Rogue sample set.

40 Rogue: This one feels genuinely vintage without the contemporary edge that the other Rogues have. This is deliberate, as the 40 Rogue composition is based on 40 Love by Jean Desprez. 40 Rogue smells like a garden at first sniff, with fruity and green notes. There are notes of tarragon and basil, so it’s quite herbaceous. I get a nice bit of carnation coming through on my skin. And, of course, a hefty dose of textured oakmoss. There are some aldehydes, which on bounce around on my skin, and keep everything from becoming too dense or heavy. I’ve never smelled 40 Love, so this is a cool opportunity to get a feel for the real thing.

Fougère L’Aube: This one is an instantly recognizable fougère. I get plenty of lavender and a cool, metallic geranium. There’s lots of herbaceous greenery. I don’t sense much of the hay note, but I’ll have to wear it more in cooler weather. I wonder if it might come through more prominently then. Fougère L’Aube comes across as rather dry to me, which I like. It has a crackling cool edge to it, which is nice for the fougère genre. It’s a genre that can sometimes feel dated (although I personally love fougères). This one smells familiar enough as a fougère, but not dated or overdone.

Le Canotier: This is an extremely elegant and very dry vetiver. It’s blended quite cleverly with a pretty, soapy jasmine. Personally, I also get tons of bergamot from this one. I don’t know if it’s just my skin chemistry. I have a jasmine earl grey tea blend from Twinings, and that’s exactly what Le Canotier reminds me of! There’s some ambergris in the base to add some warmth and anchor this on the skin. Otherwise, I find it dry and cool-toned in nature. It’s a very intriguing composition.

Tabac Vert: This one really took me by surprise. I was expecting a somewhat heavy tobacco composition appropriate for fall/winter. Tabac Vert is delicate and elegant, with tendrils of tobacco smoke weaving their way through a soft, powdery composition. I get a black pepper spice mixed with soft jasmine. The base is an amber and wood accord, but it has a sheerness to it that lends a sophistication to the composition as a whole.

All of the Rogue scents are entirely unisex. (Indeed, all fragrance is unisex.) If you’re a woman who feels self-conscious about wearing a fougère or a tobacco fragrance, give Tabac Vert or Fougère L’Aube a try. Likewise, if you’re a guy who doesn’t typically go for sweet or vanilla scents, you might want to give Derviche a shot.

Lastly, don’t be put off by the fact that Rogue is available through Etsy. Ordering was simple and the shipping was faster than some orders I’ve placed with larger department stores. Manuel Cross is committed to pursuing his own independent view of fragrance as art. And, because he is not compliant with IFRA regulations, he can’t sell through the typical platforms that we’re used to. Personally, I think it’s cool that platforms like Etsy allow independent artists to reach their audience.

Final verdict: give the Rogue sample set a shot! You’ll be busy sniffing and testing for days on end!

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The photo above was taken by me. I purchased the Rogue Perfumery Boxed Sample Set through the Rogue Etsy store. Nothing in this post was gifted.

What I Wore This Week

September 1, 2019

Hi, everyone! I’m back with another weekly scent round-up. I went very green and galbanum-heavy this week. I want to get all my greenies in before the weather turns cool.

  • Monday: Bas de Soie by Serge Lutens
  • Tuesday: Chanel No. 19 EDP
  • Wednesday: Fig-Tea by Parfums de Nicolai
  • Thursday: Chanel Paris — Deauville
  • Friday: Fidji by Guy Laroche
  • Saturday: Chanel Cristalle EDT

I’m not yet sure what I’m planning to wear today. I’ll likely be testing my last couple of Rogue samples!

If you’re in the US, I hope you’re having a relaxing long weekend! What did you all wear this week?

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The photo was taken by me. Nothing in this post was gifted.

Now Sampling: Rogue Perfumery Part 1

August 28, 2019

I have seen and heard quite a bit recently about Manuel Cross and his non IFRA compliant fragrance line, Rogue Perfumery. Rogue has been added to Fragrantica’s database and you’ll encounter photos of Rogue bottles all over social media. The positive commentary did not seem to be sponsored. I figured the hype might actually be real in this case and I ordered the sample pack!

The shipping was super quick from California to Pennsylvania. The sample pack includes so many scents that I’m breaking this overview into two parts. Part 2 will be up next week. I really want to take my time and give each of these little gems a fair wear test.

Champs Lunaire: This is a lovely creamy white tuberose compositon, bolstered by coconut and sandalwood. It’s like a cross between Fracas and Carnal Flower. There is something here that gives me a slight headache though, so I am using it sparingly.

Chypre-Siam: I find this one quite woody and herbal in the top. Apparently there is a basil note. The jasmine in the mid notes leans clean and soapy (some commenters on Fragrantica mention Irish Spring and I can see the comparison). The base is the star, with rich civet and oakmoss. It’s textured, damp, dense, weird, and amazing. It reminds me of an old sample I have of Cabochard by Gres.

Derviche: This is the undisputed crowd pleaser in the collection. This is how a crowd pleasing, mass appeal fragrance should be done. It’s a yummy amber accord that is delicious, but not quite gourmand. It’s very Autumnal. It reminds me of apple cider. And yet, it gives off a sunny vibe and it shines in this current August weather. Derviche is a crowd pleaser, but not one dimensional or juvenile. I can’t help but smile while wearing it.

Flos Mortis: If Champs Lunaire feels a bit too polite, then Flos Mortis is the tuberose for you! The opening is bizarre. It smelled like smoky cherry cough syprup to me. It started to make sense to my nose once the tuberose really became apparent. There is also a smoky leather and a fruity red currant (which is where my brain was getting the cherry note). This tuberose smells in turns: animalic, like melting plastic, and even a little like corn meal. I got whiffs of the corn tortilla tuberose in Tom Ford’s Orchid Soleil. Flos Mortis is the weirdest Rogue I’ve smelled, and also the most interesting.

Mousse Illuminée: This is my favorite so far. Mousse Illuminée brings every aspect of a forest to life. It’s earthy, woody, mossy. There’s a quite a bit of green, vegetal influence here even apart from the oakmoss. There’s some cypress that really elevates the composition. We’re taken from the mossy forest floor to the higher reaches of greenery. If this were a designer scent, it would definitely be marketed towards men. However, I love it and I think it’s a really sophisticated option for women.

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I ordered the Rogue sample pack online. Nothing in this post was gifted.

The photo was taken by me.

What I Wore This Week

August 25, 2019

Hi, everyone! I have my regular weekly scent round-up post here. We’re nearly through August and Fall is coming! We’ve still had some humid days here, so I’ve been getting more wear out of Fidji and L’Eau Chic. We’ve also had some cooler weather mixed in, which is when I reached for Gabrielle and Ginger Piccante during the day.

  • Monday: Chanel No. 19 EDT
  • Tuesday: L’Eau Chic by Parfums de Nicolai
  • Wednesday: Honeysuckle & Davana by Jo Malone
  • Thursday: Fidji by Guy Laroche
  • Friday: Chanel Gabrielle
  • Saturday: Ginger Piccante by Guerlain

What did you all wear this week?

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The photo was taken by me. Nothing in this post was gifted.

Carnal Flower by Dominique Ropion for Frédéric Malle

August 21, 2019

Notes: eucalyptus, tuberose, orange blossom, melon, coconut, jasmine, ylang-ylang, bergamot, and musk.

I ordered a decant of Carnal Flower this past January. I had come to terms with Portrait of a Lady, and I decided it was time to get acquainted with the other grand dame floral of Monsieur Malle’s collection. I don’t know what possessed me to try and wear a huge white floral during one of our coldest winters ever, but that’s what I did. Reader, it did not go well. I found Carnal Flower strange. Unappealing, even. The eucalyptus was sharp and unpleasant. The composition never seemed to settle into my skin in the cold weather. I couldn’t understand the popularity of this fragrance at all. I just didn’t get it.

In terms of tuberose scents, I’ve been wearing Diptyque’s Do Son EDT. It’s light, ethereal and very pretty. It gets along with my skin chemistry in both cold and warm weather. A little voice in the back of my mind told me to save the rest of my Carnal Flower decant for the summer. Lately, when I have the urge to wear Do Son, I instead spritz on some Carnal Flower and it’s working much, much better. The eucalyptus and bergamot are present, but are not so unpleasantly sharp. In the humidity, both notes bring a welcome green presence.

Carnal Flower is not a huge white floral on me at first spritz. The tuberose takes its time to develop. It comes into full bloom about an hour into wear time, which is when it really seems to settle and meld with my skin. It’s not as lovely or ethereal as Do Son. The tuberose of Carnal Flower has more of a texture to it, more substance. Dominique Ropion apparently added a huge dose of tuberose absolute to the composition, which doesn’t surprise me. The white floral here isn’t dirty to my nose. The sensual or carnal aspect here comes from the tuberose melding with the skin. It’s a wholly sensory experience. The tuberose texture smells and feels so substantial, it’s as though you could reach out and touch the flower petals.

I was a bit wary of the coconut in this composition. Coconut is a trendy ingredient and note these days. (Although it wasn’t when Carnal Flower was first launched in 2005.) It feels like coconut is in every new fragrance release and it’s just too sunscreen-y for me. However, I think it’s a nice supporting player here. It works well in the transition from full bloom heart notes to the dry down. The ylang-ylang also becomes noticeable, bringing a creamy yellow custard vibe, which blends well with the milky coconut.

I was also wary of the white musk base, which is a favorite of Ropion’s. It just doesn’t always play nicely with my skin, and I suspect it’s a big reason Carnal Flower didn’t work for me in cold weather. My skin chemistry and my nose are much more receptive to this dry down in warm, humid weather. I personally prefer a dry, cedar-like base, but I understand that that type of base wouldn’t suit this composition. The creamy, delicious tuberose heart note is my favorite part of this composition, but I recognize that the musk base works in harmony with the rest of Carnal Flower’s structure.

I have yet to add a bottle from Frédéric Malle’s oeuvre to my collection. I’m glad that he has added travel sprays. If I were to add a Malle, it would be either Superstitious or the lovely Eau de Magnolia, which I feel is underrated. I don’t feel the need to splurge for Carnal Flower. Perhaps I would if I lived in Miami or a climate where it would suit the mood year round, but it doesn’t make sense for me currently. The good thing is that I feel I understand Carnal Flower better now. I’m glad that I ordered a decant of this so that I could save it and give it some serious summer wear testing.

Has a similar thing ever happened to any of you? Do you tend to change your opinion as you test a fragrance, or does your first impression usually remain unchanged?

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I ordered my decant from The Perfumed Court. Nothing in this post is gifted or sponsored.

The list of notes is via Fragrantica.

The image is one of Monet’s Nymphéas. This particular work belongs to LACMA Collections. Apparently, it’s not currently on public view, but the image has been made available to the public via LACMA’s website.