Notes: aldehydes, neroli, bergamot, jasmine, rose, ylang-ylang, carnation, lilac, vetiver, orris root, opoponax, sandalwood, incense, musk, ambrette, vanilla, and coumarin.
Chanel has now infamously discontinued the EDT concentrations of its Exclusifs collection in favor of EDP compositions. The driving factor seems to have been money, since the EDPs debuted with quite a price hike. There is also the fact that longevity and “performance” now seem to be vaunted above all else in fragrance reviews on social media. It’s what everyone wants to know. How does it perform? I personally don’t mind an EDT or even a good Eau de Cologne concentration (I clearly love Jo Malone). And I think 1932 is a stellar example of of a Jacques Polge EDT composition, so that’s what this post is all about.
Like a classic Chanel composition, 1932 opens with a familiar dose of aldehydes, bright neroli, and sparkling bergamot. Then Chanel florals start making their way in with a soft rose, jasmine, and ylang-ylang. I get a hint of carnation, but it’s mostly rose for me. I do not get a lilac here. The ylang-ylang is the stand-out note for me. It’s a such a creamy and rich ylang note without taking over the composition. It’s not too yellow or banana pudding, yet it gives you just enough of a yellow floral impression. The best part is that it blends seamlessly into the base notes of sandalwood and vanilla.
I love the base and the dry down of 1932. It’s my favorite aspect of this composition. I first received my samples in the spring. At that time, my skin really amplified the florals. When I wear 1932 now in September, the base notes come through more prominently. I typically don’t love musk, but it blends so well with the vanilla and coumarin here. The sandalwood is noticeable too but, again, it doesn’t dominate. The base really is seamless. It’s such a yummy and delicious blend, it could almost be edible. But 1932 is not a gourmand. It has that balance and refinement that marks it as a Chanel scent.
I find it interesting to look back on Jacques Polge’s compositions, particularly now that his Exclusifs have all been reformulated. His 1932 EDT smells like such a classic, that I could envision it being part of the main Chanel fragrance line. I could see it fitting in somewhere between the Coco EDT and Allure. And I don’t mean that as a knock against 1932. I think it demonstrates the cohesion of Jacques Polge’s work for Chanel. Olivier Polge still seems to be searching for that cohesive and classic Chanel composition. His work has been hit or miss so far. I think if Gabrielle had a deeper base similar to 1932, it would be a surefire hit, but that wasn’t the brief for Gabrielle.
By the way, I’ve heard rumblings that No. 19 and Cristalle Eau Verte are headed for a more limited distribution. They will be available from Chanel boutiques and and the Chanel website, but may no longer be available from larger department stores and counters.
I purchased samples of 1932 and 28 La Pausa from ebay. The Exclusif EDTs are definitely still circulating out there on ebay, but the full bottles go for a hefty price.
The info on notes is via fragrantica.
The photo was taken by me. The background image is from the Chanel S/S 2019 magazine.
Nothing in this post was gifted to me.