Some Thoughts on Bloggers & Influencers

This post is different from my typical Wednesday break-down of one fragrance in particular. I’m feeling inspired by Colognoisseur’s post Am I An Influencer? on the topic. And I think the topic of influencers is something that’s been going around on social media lately in general.

I started this blog in 2012 when blogging was still the popular thing to do. Youtube was still a niche hobbyist activity. I remember watching some early makeup tutorials from Lisa Eldridge and the Pixiwoo sisters around 2011 – 2012. Being a youtube “content creator” wasn’t a job and I’m not sure if you could even monetize videos back then.

The landscape has changed so quickly. I haven’t always kept up with my blog posts here on a regular schedule, just due to work or personal life commitments. Although, part of it was that I could sense the shift away from blogging. Everything moved to youtube and instagram. I will be honest, at times, I felt like my blog was too irrelevant to keep updating, even just for my own pleasure. (I do still keep up with reading a couple of the OG beauty blogs, like Temptalia and The Beauty Look Book, so blogging is not completely dead!)

I’ve decided to lean into blogging here because I enjoy writing and I enjoy perfume. Writing out detailed analysis of different scents helps me work through my own thoughts. And I think it’s important to look through a critical lens, even towards a subject you love. There are so many fragrance releases these days — it would be impossible to blindly love everything! (I think we can also be critical of this crazy volume of launches and releases that we’re dealing with. It’s far too much and not sustainable.)

I also love the community here on wordpress with fellow perfume bloggers. The community on instagram is different. People make sponsored posts and do not always disclose the relationship, or only show photos of bottles they’ve been gifted without indicating that it was gifted. I’m not inherently against sponsorships or being gifted PR items. I just wish more people would be completely upfront about what they’ve been given. Right now on instagram, you almost have to do a little bit of detective work and look beneath the surface to figure out what you’re really looking at. An ad should be more straightforward than that.

If I were trying to be an influencer, I’d be doing a pretty bad job of it! I don’t think I’ve ever influenced anyone, which is just fine with me. I’m a blogger, a writer, and a perfume enthusiast. I will continue to keep up with instagram, but make an effort to not get caught up with the number of likes and followers, etc. The numbers and metrics aren’t the important factors for me. Connecting over scent is what matters to me.

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Thank you all for reading my writing week in and week out!

The photo was taken by me. It’s my travel spray of Do Son set against an editorial from the Chanel Spring/Summer 2019 magazine. Chanel sends me their seasonal magazines (they are clear: it’s not a catalog!) because I tend to purchase quite a bit of makeup and fragrance from the brand!

What I Wore This Week

Hi, everyone! Well, we made it through the end of April and the first week of May! I hope spring is going well for all of you. It has been a very rainy spring in my neck of the woods so far. Anyway, here is my round-up of what I wore this past week.

  • Monday: Chanel No. 5 EDT
  • Tuesday: Narciso For Her L’Absolu
  • Wednesday: Geranium & Verbena by Jo Malone
  • Thursday: Blond by Hendley
  • Friday: Chanel No. 19 EDT
  • Saturday: Dear Polly by Vilhelm Parfumerie

What did you all wear?

A programming note: I am planning to be in New York next Sunday, so I won’t have a regular post up then. But I will have a wrap-up post after I get home about everything I sniffed and sampled while in the city!

Now Sampling: Aftelier Perfumes

The thing I appreciate most about Mandy Aftel (and there is much to appreciate!) is that she makes natural perfume for people who truly love perfume. This is not natural perfumery for people who want to smell like a rose quartz crystal or whatever the current wellness trend is. Aftelier is all about natural perfume for people who love Shalimar and Mitsouko. The selection of samples I recently ordered really reflect that!

Fig: I love fig scents so this one is an easy like for me. It’s not a scent that conjures up emotions or deep thoughts for me. It’s just one of those nice and easy-to-love scents that I could wear on a daily basis. This is the type of scent I love to have in my collection to balance out some of the more challenging ones.

Embers & Musk: This is Aftelier’s newest release and I’m afraid it’s not suited to my skin chemistry! The pine tar is so smoky on me, it overpowers the composition. It’s beyond Zoologist Tyrannosaurus Rex levels on me. It’s just so out of balance and I don’t believe that’s what Mandy intended at all. I will give it a couple more tries in different weather just to make sure it’s not a fluke of my current body chemistry.

Sepia: This is an Aftelier that I’ve been eyeing for years now and finally took the plunge to sample it. It did not let me down! Sepia is a unique composition that is centered on a full-on indolic jasmine. There’s also a jammy strawberry and, somehow, I get a sweet caramel popcorn note! This is such a lovely and interesting composition.

Secret Garden: Even more than Sepia, this one seems to suit me all the way. It really evokes the book for me, which was a childhood favorite of mine. Secret Garden doesn’t just smell like a green and floral garden. It smells like soil, like manure, and like the old stone wall and heavy wooden door that keep the garden hidden for so many years. I may do a separate write-up for Secret Garden because it brings up a lot of details for me.

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I purchased these four samples directly from Aftelier. I hope to purchase a full bottle of Secret Garden (and possibly Fig) at some point soon!

The photo of my samples was taken by me.

Selperniku by January Scent Project

Notes: petitgrain, cypress, lemon, apricot, immortelle, butter, cardamom, chamomile, juniper berries, sandalwood, milk, salt, and tobacco leaf.

Selperniku was the first sample I sprayed when I got my January Scent Project sample kit. Even on the JSP paper test strip, it smelled so strange at first sniff! I was both put off and intrigued at the same time. Just looking at the list of notes, you can tell this is not your typical crowd-pleasing scent. It would never be a mainstream designer release. Scents like Selperniku make me so happy and grateful for the indie perfume scene, because smelling Selperniku is really an experience.

I get that dairy/butter smell right away in the opening. This is not buttery as in creamy (like the way we would describe a buttery Chardonnay). This is real butter. To me, it smells like Kerrygold butter. It’s salty as well, and I can actually visualize the sea salt sitting atop a pat of perfectly yellow butter. I have to say, wearing butter as a scent is extremely odd. It’s distinctly different from wearing a scent with a creamy or milky note (I have Jo Malone’s Sweet Milk cologne, for example). Selperniku is not almondy or powdery, which is the route many milky scents take.

The composition begins to develop on my skin after about an hour into wear time. This is where I feel I can actually wear this scent, rather than feeling as though butter is wearing me! All of a sudden, Selperniku is aromatic. I sense green cypress, zingy cardamom, and a slightly bitter petitgrain. This is where Selperniku radiates a little bit off my skin and I get some projection. This part of the composition really balances out the butter opening, which is rather dense. I appreciate the balance.

The apricot note appears around 3 hours into wear and anchors the composition for the rest of wear time. I also have a sample of Vaporocindro from January Scent Project, and I smell a bit of Vaporocindro here, right at the mid way point. The tipping point from the aromatic green cypress over into the apricot smells like Vaporocindro to me. I’m not sure exactly why, because those notes don’t overlap between the two scents, but I’ve gotten that sensation multiple times now. The main thing is that like picking out connections between different scents from the same perfumer and the same brand. It makes the brand feel cohesive.

Selperniku lasts around 6 hours on my skin. I’ve discovered that it lasts much longer on my clothes and my PJs in particular. Luckily my PJs don’t smell like butter! Rather, the last vestiges of Selperniku smell like faintly sweet apricot and something slightly herbal. Perhaps the chamomile note? It’s strangely comforting. On my skin, a milky dairy note comes back during the dry down, however, it’s not butter. It’s much more like a typical creamy milk note. I have a milky serum from Kypris that I use on my face. The texture of Selperniku’s base is exactly like this serum: milky, substantial, but not too dense. And even though the apricot note is still there, it’s not gourmand at all. It’s such a fascinating composition.

I wouldn’t wear Selperniku every day. I don’t think it’s intended to be that type of eminently wearable scent that you can find at any Macy’s counter. Selperniku is something else. And yet, it is also wearable! With notes of butter and salt, it’s remarkably wearable on the skin. Like haute couture, Selperniku is a piece of art that you can wear. I will say, this scent more than any other scent I’ve tried recently, absolutely must be sampled. Do *not* blind buy! I can imagine the butter note coming across very differently according to skin chemistry. Luckily, John Biebel makes it easy with the sample kit.

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As I’ve stated, my Selperniku sample is part of the JSP sample kit that I ordered a couple of months ago.

The list of notes is via Fragrantica.

The photo of my sample and John Biebel’s Selperniku mini art poster was taken by me.

What I Wore This Week

Hi, everyone! I’m back with my Sunday round-up, as usual. This past week was very low-key for me. I came down with something over Easter and, as a result, I was down for the count Monday and Tuesday. You may have noticed I didn’t have a new post up mid-week. I just didn’t have the energy to sniff anything new or do any writing. But I still managed to wear some old favorites this week! It helped boost my mood and my energy levels.

  • Tuesday: English Pear & Freesia by Jo Malone
  • Wednesday: Chanel No. 19 EDT
  • Thursday: Figue Amère by Miller Harris
  • Friday: Tendre Madeleine by Laurence Dumont Les Senteurs Gourmandes
  • Saturday: Honeysuckle & Davana by Jo Malone

What did you all wear this week?

What I Wore This Week

Hi, everyone! Happy Easter and Happy Passover to all who celebrate!

I had a bit of a mixed week as the spring weather here continues to be changeable. It’s hard to pick out something to wear in the morning — for both fragrance and clothing!

  • Monday: YSL Cinéma
  • Tuesday: Tendre Madeleine by Laurence Dumont Les Senteurs Gourmandes
  • Wednesday: L’Eau Chic by Parfums de Nicolai
  • Thursday: Je Suis la Lune by DSH Perfumes
  • Friday: Mon Numéro 10 by L’Artisan Parfumeur
  • Saturday: Carven Le Parfum

For Easter today, I’m going with Paris – Venise from Chanel. It’s actually overcast and chilly here, so I’m opting for one of my reliable transitional scents.

What did you all wear this week?

Now Sampling: DSH Perfumes

I recently placed another order from the lovely DSH Perfumes. I ordered a shower gel (in Tonic, which is ginger + bergamot. It’s so invigorating and refreshing!) and a couple of samples with it. I wanted to try Je Suis la Lune in particular because it sounded like the perfect jasmine for my skin chemistry. Dawn very kindly sent a few other samples along with my order, including one of her newest releases: Au Crépuscule de Lavande.

Au Crépuscule de Lavande: This is such a different take on lavender. It’s not an aromatherapy lavender, nor is it cold or metallic. It’s actually a beautiful warm and rich composition. Funny enough, this reminds me of New Haarlem from Bond No. 9, which is one of my favorite gourmands. But, whereas New Haarlem features notes of coffee with pancakes and maple syrup, Au Crépuscule de Lavande reminds me of sipping coffee along with a buttery, flaky croissant, fresh from your local Parisian patisserie. Au Crépuscule de Lavande definitely has a warm and rich gourmand vibe, but the lavender gives it a more subtle and refined edge. It’s like the best of the gourmand genre paired with a fougère. I plan to order a larger size of this since I drained my sample vial pretty quickly!

Je Suis la Lune: Likewise, I drained this sample vial very quickly! Je Suis la Lune is a creamy and luminous jasmine. It shimmers on the skin, bright and dazzling white, just like the moon, for which it is named. Je Suis la Lune just smells like happiness. It smells happy and peaceful. I’m always on the lookout for a creamy white floral that works with my skin. I’ve been trying to make a decant of Frederic Malle’s Carnal Flower (from The Perfumed Court) work for a few months now, and it just smells wrong on me. Granted, that one is tuberose and not jasmine. But I connect much more with this one. I plan to order a larger size of this for the summer!

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I ordered my sample of Je Suis la Lune, while Dawn very generously included a sample of Au Crepuscule de Lavande with my order.

The photo of my samples was taken by me.

Perfume by Neil Chapman

I had a post all about Les Eaux de Chanel planned for this week! But then I finished Neil’s book and I figured why not write about it?

The full title is: Perfume: In Search of Your Signature Scent. The art deco cover design is gorgeous. There are even little illustrations of perfume bottles throughout the book, which is such a nice touch. It’s clear that no detail was too small here.

Let’s be honest, Perfumes: The A-Z Guide from Luca Turin and Tania Sanchez, looms over this genre. I own the 2008 paperback and it’s definitive in a way. I almost feel a little bit upset when I disagree with Luca or Tania’s opinion on a fragrance. I appreciate that Neil has made his own entry into this category because his approach is different. The book is littered with personal anecdotes and I feel as though I’m having a conversation with a friend. Whereas, with Luca in particular, I feel like I’m interacting with a professor (Tania comes across as more friendly to me, more like Neil). If you’re intimidated by The Guide, or find yourself disagreeing with Luca (which I often do), give Neil’s Perfume a try. It’s a welcome approach to breaking down this slightly maddening and endlessly fascinating world of fragrance.

I finished reading Perfume on Monday night after an upsetting and emotionally distressing afternoon, during which we all saw Notre Dame de Paris go up in flames. I couldn’t focus on anything that evening, not making dinner, not mindless tv shows. Eventually, I found solace in Neil’s book. It helps that many of the entries are short and easily digestible. When the entries on individual perfumes are longer, it’s for a good reason. It means that Neil has a good story to tell!

I would have enjoyed this book no matter what. But the fact that it helped ground me during an emotional time makes it even better. I’m now in the process of going back through to mark certain chapters and pages with post-its. I don’t want to write in the actual book because it’s such a lovely presentation! I’d hate to mark it up with a highlighter or pen. But making note of certain passages and perfumes I want to try from here is a must. Get your post-its ready while reading this!

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I ordered my copy of the book from Amazon. It’s a super reasonable price for a hardback book, and it’s eligible for Prime shipping!

The photo of my copy was taken by me.

What I Wore This Week

Hi, everyone! It’s Sunday again, so I’m back with another weekly round-up of my scents of the day. We’re starting to get some nicer weather but it’s still chilly and overcast at times. I like the Narciso L’Absolu for chilly spring weather because the musk base gives some depth and warmth. Similarly, I think Paris – Venise is good for transitional weather. We’ll see how spring continues to unfold here!

  • Monday: Narciso Rodriguez For Her L’Absolu
  • Tuesday: Chanel No. 5 L’Eau
  • Wednesday: Do Son EDT by Diptyque
  • Thursday: Capri Forget Me Not by Carthusia
  • Friday: Les Eaux de Chanel Paris – Venise
  • Saturday: Wood Sage & Sea Salt by Jo Malone

What did you all wear this past week?

Dark Amber & Ginger Lily by Jo Malone

Notes: cardamom, ginger, pink pepper, jasmine, orchid, water lily, rose, leather, sandalwood, Kyara incense, patchouli, and black amber.

Jo Malone was one of the first fragrance houses that I explored in depth back around 2011- 2012 because it’s reasonably accessible and I initially found the scents approachable. Some people swear by Jo Malone. Others dislike the Eau de Cologne formulations and lament the lack of staying power. I truly can see both sides. I’ve explored many other brands and houses by this point, but Jo Malone still has a special place in perfumery for me (even though Jo Malone herself is no longer with the house). Dark Amber & Ginger Lily is part of the Cologne Intense line, and I definitely get more sillage from this than other Jo Malone scents. Dark Amber & Ginger Lily was originally composed by Jo Malone herself, so it holds a special place in my collection.

I sense the opening of Dark Amber & Ginger Lily in color. It’s very green, cut through with dashes of yellow and pink. I also sense water, as in rain drops or dew drops sitting on green leaves and flower petals. I imagine it’s like being in a rainforest. So, what does it actually smell like? I get zingy ginger and fizzy cardamom right away. I also get a floral note, but not heavy. It’s as though the water lily is rendered in watercolor. It’s vivid and yet in the background somehow. The sillage from the opening and through the first hour is great. It’s not too much, but nicely noticeable.

The incense starts to waft in and out as wear time goes on. I know this fragrance is named for amber, but incense is the star for me. The incense is not medicinal here, nor is it dry or cold. It comes across as quite warm to me and has a calming effect. It balances out the watery floral effect from the water lily, but without being too smoky. This is the kind of incense I’d love to burn while doing my at-home yoga practice. Maybe I will simply wear Dark Amber & Ginger Lily while practicing!

There certainly is an amber effect here, but the actual accord comes across like ambergris to me. The base is a slightly sweaty/ambery skin scent. Remember, this is Jo Malone, so it’s not sweaty in an off-putting way. It’s about as refined as you can get for a skin scent, and it’s blended with a dry patchouli. The ginger seems to come back to my nose and spice up the patchouli. There is also a green effect again, which brings the composition full circle. I’ve seen multiple comments on Fragrantica mentioning a coconut note in the dry down. That doesn’t show up on my skin at all, but I’m just putting it out there because it seems to be present for other people. It’s really a beautiful dry down, and extremely elegant.

I have to report that, even though I get quite a nice sillage trail, I don’t get more pronounced longevity from this “Cologne Intense” concentration. I get between 5- 6 hours of wear time (5 hours is average for me with Jo Malone). I don’t mind because I tend to wear this scent at night, so I’m not looking for it to last me a full 8 hour work day. That being said, I think you could pull this off as a daytime scent, depending on the weather and the occasion, etc.

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I purchased my 50 ml bottle from Nordstrom online. I’m happy to see Jo Malone offering a 50 ml size as the regular line is only available in 30 ml or 100 ml. I personally love the 50 ml bottle. It’s the perfect size for both use and storage.

The list of notes is via fragrantica.

The photo of my bottle was taken by me.