Secret Garden by Aftelier Perfumes

This afternoon, I picked up a bouquet of peonies for my apartment from Trader Joe’s, but that’s about as far as I go in terms of taking care of flowers or plants. I’ve never been into gardening. However, I loved the book The Secret Garden as a child, and the story has stuck with me. The 1993 film with Maggie Smith as Mrs. Medlock is also a gem. You don’t need to have a green thumb to appreciate Aftelier’s Secret Garden. You don’t need to have read the book either, but I’m a literature student at heart. I’ll never pass up the opportunity to make a connection to a book!

The first thing I smell when applying Secret Garden is damp soil. I do not smell lively greens or blooming florals. For me, the opening is earth and just a touch of damp green moss. It makes sense, if you think of the story, Mary and Dickon begin by clearing out the garden and nurturing it back to life (they do the same with Colin, nurturing him into being a healthy child). Damp soil is one of the first things you need for new life to grow.

The florals come in during the heart notes for me. I can sense rose, jasmine, and even a hint of carnation. The floral accords are full-bodied, but not in your face. Everything is very carefully balanced here. We’re at the stage where the garden is being carefully tended and maintained. The jasmine is most prominent to my nose and it’s a jasmine with depth: creamy, spicy and rich. I believe the touch of spice is what’s making me think of carnation. I don’t think it’s actually an intended note here, but, when I close my eyes and smell my wrist, I picture carnation blooming in my mind’s eye.

Secret Garden has great staying power for a natural because the base is so dense. The earthiness persists, less damp but more rich. It has been enriched now by the spice and the blooming florals. There’s a bit of a civet animalic presence, and I also get a touch of minerality. The mineral aspect makes me think of the key to the garden, which Mary finds buried in the earth. Secret Garden begins to fade away for me around the 5 hour mark. After 6 hours, I have to re-apply or perhaps move on to another scent.

I really appreciate the sense of realism I get from Secret Garden. Gardening is hard work! It’s sweaty and dirty. It’s dirt, it’s mud, it’s dampness, and manure. You get a sense of all of that here. However, don’t be fooled! Secret Garden is a grounded and earthy scent, but that doesn’t mean it’s not dreamy. It’s a Romantic composition. The jasmine really adds a sensuality and the unexpected touch of spice adds so much depth. I highly recommend trying Secret Garden, especially if you don’t typically like florals. This one might surprise you! There is nothing typical about it.

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I purchased a sample of Secret Garden from Aftelier online. I originally wrote about my first impressions here. Nothing in this post was gifted or sponsored.

The photo was taken by me. The background picture is a detail of a painting by Claude Monet, Villas à Bordighera. I own the Monet book by Taschen.

Of Travel (and travel sprays)

I’m taking a quick family trip to Boston this weekend, so I won’t have my usual What I Wore post up on Sunday morning. I thought I’d post this quick update instead and list my trusty travel sprays.

Do Son EDT by Diptyque

I took this one to Miami earlier in the spring. It’s a perfect pretty tuberose scent to wear in warm weather. The EDT is an inoffensive tuberose.

Graanmarkt13

This one is an interesting lavender, rosemary, and patchouli composition. The patchouli is very earthy here. I love to wear this one in the evenings/at night.

Blond by Hendley

Of course I dedicated an entire post to Blond. I love it and am happy to take it with me, no matter where I’m going.

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I purchased all three of these travel sprays myself, none were gifted. If you’re curious about the Graanmarkt scent, it’s available via Barney’s in the US.

The photo was taken by me.

May 2019: Collection Update

I’ve recently added a couple of bottles to my collection, so I thought now would be the perfect time to do another collection update post!

Fig Tea is a scent from Parfums de Nicolai that I’ve liked for several years. I first wrote about it here. I wanted to mention this scent in particular because I bought the 30 ml size for $52 from Luckyscent. I think it’s a great value for a 30 ml EdT that lasts around 5-6 hours on my skin. Compare that with $68 for Jo Malone’s 30 ml bottles! (And it’s $72 for the limited edition spring collection bottles.) I adore Jo Malone and I don’t mind the shorter wear time because I frequently re-apply. But that price point just doesn’t seem like a good value to me for an EdC concentration.

I bring all of this up just to say that, if you haven’t tried Parfums de Nicolai, I highly recommend this house! The EdT concentrations are comparable to Jo Malone (some last slightly longer than Jo Malone, some don’t. It will depend on your skin chemistry, of course.) And the Parfums de Nicolai price point is fantastic.

My other recent purchase is Tocca’s Simone, which is an effortless and easy-going kind of perfume. Can you believe that this is actually my first full bottle from Tocca? I recently learned that they discontinued my other Tocca favorite, Margaux. So I figured I should snap up Simone while I still can! I love the Tocca bottles and the ornate caps (which I removed for the photo. The cap was so heavy, it kept tipping the bottle over!)

Simone isn’t a fragrance that I would usually go for. It’s a fruit-forward scent (green apple and watermelon). The pink juice is clearly intended to appeal to a younger demographic. I normally roll my eyes at scents with such obvious marketing tactics like this. However, on the skin, Simone is simply so pretty, I can’t resist it. There is a woody undercurrent that keeps the composition anchored and gives it some staying power. What can I say? I’m not immune to pretty pink scents! I’m excited to wear this one for the summer.

Looking forward, I only see myself purchasing a 75 ml bottle of Chanel’s 1957 over the summer. I don’t have any other full bottles on my list right now. (Or, rather, I have so many full bottles that I would love, but I have to narrow it down!) I want to leave myself some leeway to purchase a bottle or two during the Fall and leading up to the holiday season. We shall see how my full bottle Low Buy continues through the second half of 2019!

Have any of you purchased new full bottles lately?

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I purchased Fig Tea from Luckyscent and Simone from Nordstrom.

The photo was taken by me.

What I Wore This Week

Hi, everyone! Happy Sunday! As usual, I’m back with my weekly round-up.

  • Monday: Figue Amère by Miller Harris
  • Tuesday: Honeysuckle & Davana by Jo Malone
  • Wednesday: Magnolia Nobile by Acqua di Parma
  • Thursday: La Religieuse by Serge Lutens
  • Friday: Simone by Tocca
  • Saturday: Simone by Tocca

Tocca’s Simone is a new purchase, and I’ll write more about it in my next post about my low buy for 2019.

A programming note: I did not have a weekly post up this week. I’ve been adjusting to some new iron supplements prescribed by my doctor and they are tough. I’m going through a period of feeling more run down before I feel better. Thank you for bearing with me!

What did you all wear this past week?

What I Wore This Week

Hi, everyone! I’m back with my regular weekly round-up post. This week was a little different because it was a travel week, so I don’t have as many scents pictured as usual. I still managed to wear some goodies though!

  • Monday: I was wear-testing Chanel 1957
  • Tuesday: Travel day so I wasn’t wearing any fragrance
  • Wednesday: Chanel No. 5 L’Eau
  • Thursday: Clementine California by Atelier Cologne
  • Friday: Magnolia Nobile by Acqua di Parma
  • Saturday: Geranium & Verbena by Jo Malone

I’m not sure yet what I’ll wear today. We’ll see how the weather turns out!

What did you all wear this past week?

Sniffing Adventures in New York

My trip to New York was a lot of fun, although it was slightly hampered by the weather. It was unseasonably cold for May (temperatures in the 40s) and it rained non-stop for two days! I’d forgotten just how tough the city can be when the weather is miserable. I didn’t get around to doing as much sniffing as I had planned, simply because I spent more time indoors and at the hotel than I had planned.

However, I did still get the chance to sample a couple of designer releases that I was really curious about!

Holy Peony by Maison Christian Dior: I love a pretty peony scent, especially for spring. Acqua di Parma’s Peonia Nobile doesn’t quite work for me. There is something in the base that doesn’t quite agree with my skin. Holy Peony does work for me, and, I have to say, it’s very pretty. It’s not a photo-realistic peony. It actually comes across more like a pink rose blended with a fresh green accord, and sitting on a base of soft musk. I’d love to buy this one, but I don’t truly need it in my collection. I already have Belle de Jour, which I love. Holy Peony would have to be seriously special to out-perform Belle de Jour for me. Still, it’s very pretty and worth sniffing. I’m sure this will be a successful release for Dior.

I have to give a shout-out to the Dior Sales Associate at Saks. She guided my friend Sarah and I through the entire Maison Christian Dior collection (the new Dior Privee) at length! She made samples for us and let us take our time sniffing everything. She was extremely knowledgeable, and it really speaks to the training and education program at Dior. Even when I worked at Sephora, our Dior rep was by far one of the most knowledgeable brand reps we had. I may not love each and every Dior fragrance, but they are taking the time to educate their staff, which reflects well on the brand as a whole.

1957 Chanel Les Exclusifs: I did not expect to like 1957 at all. None of the marketing copy put out by Chanel appealed to me. Still, it’s an Exclusif. I have to at least test it, right? My sister & I had lunch at Bergdorf’s to get out of the rain. We weren’t in a rush to go back outside, so we took a stroll around the Bergdorf’s beauty level. Lo and behold, the Chanel counter had 1957 and I spritzed it right on the skin. My first reaction was: Just as I thought, it’s not for me. But then, I couldn’t stop sniffing my wrist. And I noticed the fragrance persisted. It lasted all afternoon and well into the evening. I could smell traces of it even after taking a shower. I went back to Bergdorf’s the next day to test it again!

I have to admit, I love 1957. It starts as a burst of citrus (A zesty lime to my nose, although I don’t know the official note.) It moves into an orange blossom, soapy but pretty and not astringently clean. It then moves into an orris, with the earthy aspect of orris root just barely held in check by a gauzy musk. It’s like a cloud but, at the same, feels very grounded and rooted because of the orris. It’s surprisingly lovely. It lasts for ages on my skin, easily over 8 hours. If I’m still thinking about 1957 come June, I may spring for a bottle as a birthday gift to myself. However, if I’ve moved on to other shiny fragrance releases, then I know it’s not a need in my collection. I really urge everyone to test 1957 though. The performance and longevity are fabulous.

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The photos in the post were all taken by me.

What I Wore This Week

Hi, everyone! Well, we made it through the end of April and the first week of May! I hope spring is going well for all of you. It has been a very rainy spring in my neck of the woods so far. Anyway, here is my round-up of what I wore this past week.

  • Monday: Chanel No. 5 EDT
  • Tuesday: Narciso For Her L’Absolu
  • Wednesday: Geranium & Verbena by Jo Malone
  • Thursday: Blond by Hendley
  • Friday: Chanel No. 19 EDT
  • Saturday: Dear Polly by Vilhelm Parfumerie

What did you all wear?

A programming note: I am planning to be in New York next Sunday, so I won’t have a regular post up then. But I will have a wrap-up post after I get home about everything I sniffed and sampled while in the city!

Now Sampling: Aftelier Perfumes

The thing I appreciate most about Mandy Aftel (and there is much to appreciate!) is that she makes natural perfume for people who truly love perfume. This is not natural perfumery for people who want to smell like a rose quartz crystal or whatever the current wellness trend is. Aftelier is all about natural perfume for people who love Shalimar and Mitsouko. The selection of samples I recently ordered really reflect that!

Fig: I love fig scents so this one is an easy like for me. It’s not a scent that conjures up emotions or deep thoughts for me. It’s just one of those nice and easy-to-love scents that I could wear on a daily basis. This is the type of scent I love to have in my collection to balance out some of the more challenging ones.

Embers & Musk: This is Aftelier’s newest release and I’m afraid it’s not suited to my skin chemistry! The pine tar is so smoky on me, it overpowers the composition. It’s beyond Zoologist Tyrannosaurus Rex levels on me. It’s just so out of balance and I don’t believe that’s what Mandy intended at all. I will give it a couple more tries in different weather just to make sure it’s not a fluke of my current body chemistry.

Sepia: This is an Aftelier that I’ve been eyeing for years now and finally took the plunge to sample it. It did not let me down! Sepia is a unique composition that is centered on a full-on indolic jasmine. There’s also a jammy strawberry and, somehow, I get a sweet caramel popcorn note! This is such a lovely and interesting composition.

Secret Garden: Even more than Sepia, this one seems to suit me all the way. It really evokes the book for me, which was a childhood favorite of mine. Secret Garden doesn’t just smell like a green and floral garden. It smells like soil, like manure, and like the old stone wall and heavy wooden door that keep the garden hidden for so many years. I may do a separate write-up for Secret Garden because it brings up a lot of details for me.

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I purchased these four samples directly from Aftelier. I hope to purchase a full bottle of Secret Garden (and possibly Fig) at some point soon!

The photo of my samples was taken by me.

Selperniku by January Scent Project

Notes: petitgrain, cypress, lemon, apricot, immortelle, butter, cardamom, chamomile, juniper berries, sandalwood, milk, salt, and tobacco leaf.

Selperniku was the first sample I sprayed when I got my January Scent Project sample kit. Even on the JSP paper test strip, it smelled so strange at first sniff! I was both put off and intrigued at the same time. Just looking at the list of notes, you can tell this is not your typical crowd-pleasing scent. It would never be a mainstream designer release. Scents like Selperniku make me so happy and grateful for the indie perfume scene, because smelling Selperniku is really an experience.

I get that dairy/butter smell right away in the opening. This is not buttery as in creamy (like the way we would describe a buttery Chardonnay). This is real butter. To me, it smells like Kerrygold butter. It’s salty as well, and I can actually visualize the sea salt sitting atop a pat of perfectly yellow butter. I have to say, wearing butter as a scent is extremely odd. It’s distinctly different from wearing a scent with a creamy or milky note (I have Jo Malone’s Sweet Milk cologne, for example). Selperniku is not almondy or powdery, which is the route many milky scents take.

The composition begins to develop on my skin after about an hour into wear time. This is where I feel I can actually wear this scent, rather than feeling as though butter is wearing me! All of a sudden, Selperniku is aromatic. I sense green cypress, zingy cardamom, and a slightly bitter petitgrain. This is where Selperniku radiates a little bit off my skin and I get some projection. This part of the composition really balances out the butter opening, which is rather dense. I appreciate the balance.

The apricot note appears around 3 hours into wear and anchors the composition for the rest of wear time. I also have a sample of Vaporocindro from January Scent Project, and I smell a bit of Vaporocindro here, right at the mid way point. The tipping point from the aromatic green cypress over into the apricot smells like Vaporocindro to me. I’m not sure exactly why, because those notes don’t overlap between the two scents, but I’ve gotten that sensation multiple times now. The main thing is that like picking out connections between different scents from the same perfumer and the same brand. It makes the brand feel cohesive.

Selperniku lasts around 6 hours on my skin. I’ve discovered that it lasts much longer on my clothes and my PJs in particular. Luckily my PJs don’t smell like butter! Rather, the last vestiges of Selperniku smell like faintly sweet apricot and something slightly herbal. Perhaps the chamomile note? It’s strangely comforting. On my skin, a milky dairy note comes back during the dry down, however, it’s not butter. It’s much more like a typical creamy milk note. I have a milky serum from Kypris that I use on my face. The texture of Selperniku’s base is exactly like this serum: milky, substantial, but not too dense. And even though the apricot note is still there, it’s not gourmand at all. It’s such a fascinating composition.

I wouldn’t wear Selperniku every day. I don’t think it’s intended to be that type of eminently wearable scent that you can find at any Macy’s counter. Selperniku is something else. And yet, it is also wearable! With notes of butter and salt, it’s remarkably wearable on the skin. Like haute couture, Selperniku is a piece of art that you can wear. I will say, this scent more than any other scent I’ve tried recently, absolutely must be sampled. Do *not* blind buy! I can imagine the butter note coming across very differently according to skin chemistry. Luckily, John Biebel makes it easy with the sample kit.

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As I’ve stated, my Selperniku sample is part of the JSP sample kit that I ordered a couple of months ago.

The list of notes is via Fragrantica.

The photo of my sample and John Biebel’s Selperniku mini art poster was taken by me.

What I Wore This Week

Hi, everyone! I’m back with my Sunday round-up, as usual. This past week was very low-key for me. I came down with something over Easter and, as a result, I was down for the count Monday and Tuesday. You may have noticed I didn’t have a new post up mid-week. I just didn’t have the energy to sniff anything new or do any writing. But I still managed to wear some old favorites this week! It helped boost my mood and my energy levels.

  • Tuesday: English Pear & Freesia by Jo Malone
  • Wednesday: Chanel No. 19 EDT
  • Thursday: Figue Amère by Miller Harris
  • Friday: Tendre Madeleine by Laurence Dumont Les Senteurs Gourmandes
  • Saturday: Honeysuckle & Davana by Jo Malone

What did you all wear this week?