I have seen and heard quite a bit recently about Manuel Cross and his non IFRA compliant fragrance line, Rogue Perfumery. Rogue has been added to Fragrantica’s database and you’ll encounter photos of Rogue bottles all over social media. The positive commentary did not seem to be sponsored. I figured the hype might actually be real in this case and I ordered the sample pack!
The shipping was super quick from California to Pennsylvania. The sample pack includes so many scents that I’m breaking this overview into two parts. Part 2 will be up next week. I really want to take my time and give each of these little gems a fair wear test.
Champs Lunaire: This is a lovely creamy white tuberose compositon, bolstered by coconut and sandalwood. It’s like a cross between Fracas and Carnal Flower. There is something here that gives me a slight headache though, so I am using it sparingly.
Chypre-Siam: I find this one quite woody and herbal in the top. Apparently there is a basil note. The jasmine in the mid notes leans clean and soapy (some commenters on Fragrantica mention Irish Spring and I can see the comparison). The base is the star, with rich civet and oakmoss. It’s textured, damp, dense, weird, and amazing. It reminds me of an old sample I have of Cabochard by Gres.
Derviche: This is the undisputed crowd pleaser in the collection. This is how a crowd pleasing, mass appeal fragrance should be done. It’s a yummy amber accord that is delicious, but not quite gourmand. It’s very Autumnal. It reminds me of apple cider. And yet, it gives off a sunny vibe and it shines in this current August weather. Derviche is a crowd pleaser, but not one dimensional or juvenile. I can’t help but smile while wearing it.
Flos Mortis: If Champs Lunaire feels a bit too polite, then Flos Mortis is the tuberose for you! The opening is bizarre. It smelled like smoky cherry cough syprup to me. It started to make sense to my nose once the tuberose really became apparent. There is also a smoky leather and a fruity red currant (which is where my brain was getting the cherry note). This tuberose smells in turns: animalic, like melting plastic, and even a little like corn meal. I got whiffs of the corn tortilla tuberose in Tom Ford’s Orchid Soleil. Flos Mortis is the weirdest Rogue I’ve smelled, and also the most interesting.
Mousse Illuminée: This is my favorite so far. Mousse Illuminée brings every aspect of a forest to life. It’s earthy, woody, mossy. There’s a quite a bit of green, vegetal influence here even apart from the oakmoss. There’s some cypress that really elevates the composition. We’re taken from the mossy forest floor to the higher reaches of greenery. If this were a designer scent, it would definitely be marketed towards men. However, I love it and I think it’s a really sophisticated option for women.
I ordered the Rogue sample pack online. Nothing in this post was gifted.
The photo was taken by me.