What I Wore This Week

Hi, everyone!

Happy New Year! I’m sorry I haven’t been around sooner, but I’ve been down with a bout of the flu for the past week. It’s been pretty bad this year, but I’m finally on the mend.

I mostly haven’t been wearing anything in terms of fragrance, but the last couple of days I’ve felt well enough to wear a few spritzes of L’Eau Chic from Parfums de Nicolai. The light minty opening has been so refreshing and makes me feel just a little bit more energized.

I hope you all had a great holiday and fun new year! And hopefully next week I’ll be back with a full week’s worth of fragrance!

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The photo was taken by me. Nothing in this post was gifted.

May 2019: Collection Update

I’ve recently added a couple of bottles to my collection, so I thought now would be the perfect time to do another collection update post!

Fig Tea is a scent from Parfums de Nicolai that I’ve liked for several years. I first wrote about it here. I wanted to mention this scent in particular because I bought the 30 ml size for $52 from Luckyscent. I think it’s a great value for a 30 ml EdT that lasts around 5-6 hours on my skin. Compare that with $68 for Jo Malone’s 30 ml bottles! (And it’s $72 for the limited edition spring collection bottles.) I adore Jo Malone and I don’t mind the shorter wear time because I frequently re-apply. But that price point just doesn’t seem like a good value to me for an EdC concentration.

I bring all of this up just to say that, if you haven’t tried Parfums de Nicolai, I highly recommend this house! The EdT concentrations are comparable to Jo Malone (some last slightly longer than Jo Malone, some don’t. It will depend on your skin chemistry, of course.) And the Parfums de Nicolai price point is fantastic.

My other recent purchase is Tocca’s Simone, which is an effortless and easy-going kind of perfume. Can you believe that this is actually my first full bottle from Tocca? I recently learned that they discontinued my other Tocca favorite, Margaux. So I figured I should snap up Simone while I still can! I love the Tocca bottles and the ornate caps (which I removed for the photo. The cap was so heavy, it kept tipping the bottle over!)

Simone isn’t a fragrance that I would usually go for. It’s a fruit-forward scent (green apple and watermelon). The pink juice is clearly intended to appeal to a younger demographic. I normally roll my eyes at scents with such obvious marketing tactics like this. However, on the skin, Simone is simply so pretty, I can’t resist it. There is a woody undercurrent that keeps the composition anchored and gives it some staying power. What can I say? I’m not immune to pretty pink scents! I’m excited to wear this one for the summer.

Looking forward, I only see myself purchasing a 75 ml bottle of Chanel’s 1957 over the summer. I don’t have any other full bottles on my list right now. (Or, rather, I have so many full bottles that I would love, but I have to narrow it down!) I want to leave myself some leeway to purchase a bottle or two during the Fall and leading up to the holiday season. We shall see how my full bottle Low Buy continues through the second half of 2019!

Have any of you purchased new full bottles lately?

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I purchased Fig Tea from Luckyscent and Simone from Nordstrom.

The photo was taken by me.

Fig Tea by Parfums de Nicolai

Fig-tea 100ml_new

Notes: fig, osmanthus, artemisia, mate, coriander, jasmine, guaiac wood, and amber.

I’m always happy to try a new (new to me, at least) scent from Patricia de Nicolai and Parfums de Nicolai. Fig Tea stood out to me, since I am still making an effort to try fig-centric fragrances to get a better feel for this theme in perfumery. Fig Tea is listed as an Eau Fraiche concentration, so I thought it would be a good refreshing scent to sample during this spring/summer season.

Fig Tea is indeed quite refreshing. It opens on a sweet fruity note. It’s a jammy fig, but doesn’t come across as too sticky-sweet. In fact, there’s a slight fizziness that keeps the opening lightweight. I detect apricot as well, most likely from the osmanthus. This opening is markedly different from the other fig scents I’ve sampled, which have focused on green fig leaves. The fruit opening here makes for a softer, more gentle impression.

Unlike a fig scent such as Diptyque’s Philosykos, Fig Tea never turns into a green fragrance, but it does develop to take on a noticeably herbaceous feel. After around twenty minutes of wear time, I notice something like mint coming through, only not as sharp. I’ve come to realize that it’s the mate or yerba mate note. I’ve never encountered this note before, but it’s very refreshing and pleasant. It’s green and herbal, but not sharp the way a mint note can sometimes be. This lovely herbaceous note serves to lift the overall composition so that the fruit and florals never turn too sweet or heavy.

As the fragrance develops, the fig note becomes much less pronounced, to the point where I probably wouldn’t identify this as a fig-centric fragrance if I were doing a blind testing of it. The tea aspect comes through much more strongly for me from the middle all the way into the dry down. This is not a smokey or cozy tea scent. It’s more like iced black tea and, because of the fruit notes, it makes me think of raspberry flavored iced tea.

I wasn’t expecting much staying power from this fragrance (considering the Eau Fraiche concentration) but I get just over 4 hours of wear time here, which is decent. The fragrance has a lightweight feel to it, so it can easily be reapplied without fear of being too heavy-handed. Even the dry down wears lightly for me. I really don’t sense any amber, but I do get hints of woodiness, like a dusted-over tea note, but in a nice way if that makes sense.

I really enjoy the herbaceous and refreshing tea notes here. I love cozy black tea perfumes for winter, but it’s nice to have a tea perfume that’s great for spring/summer wear. I have to admit that I’m personally a bit disappointed that the fig note isn’t more prominent here. Is this what I want from a fig fragrance? I’m not sure. But it’s good to sample a fig scent that isn’t just about green fig leaves. And the other notes here are so appealing, it’s hard to complain. Now, I have to see what fig scents I come across next.

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Fig Tea is available from the Parfums de Nicolai website. Full bottles and samples are also available from Luckyscent, which is where I got my sample.

*Updated image is courtesy of Parfums de NicolaÏ and the info on notes is from Fragrantica.

Odalisque by Parfums de Nicolai

odalisque parfums de nicolaiNotes: bergamot, tangerine, citruses, lily-of-the-valley, jasmine, orris root, oak moss, musk.

Let’s address this bit of business right away: Odalisque is a floral chypre fragrance that has been reformulated from its original version due to IFRA restrictions on oakmoss. My sample is quite recent, so I’ve sadly never had the opportunity to smell the original Odalisque. However, I can still sense an earthy, almost inky aspect that I would attribute to oakmoss. And this version of Odalisque has retained a retro character — a kind of rich powdery feel — that makes it stand out.

Odalisque opens with bergamot and other assorted citrus notes to lend a lightness to what will soon be a bouquet of blooming white flowers. The bergamot is quite aromatic and seems to play off of the moss, which means this opening can come off as a little harsh. I personally don’t find it overbearing since it only lasts for about ten minutes on me.

The jasmine takes over soon after the initial opening. As the jasmine develops it becomes extremely rich in texture, almost like soft butter. The floral heart is anchored by orris root, which adds a powdery touch to the composition. Odalisque quiets down after a couple of hours of wear time. Though, I would posit that this is another stage of the heart, not necessarily the dry down yet. This is the point at which I really get a sense of the lily-of-the-valley note. It lends a gentleness to the white floral/oakmoss accord, which can otherwise read a bit dark or melancholic.

As for the dry down itself, the musk mostly comes across as salty to me. I don’t find Odalisque overly animalic or dirty/sexy. I’d characterize Odalisque as more sensual than outright sexy. The orris root and oakmoss ensure that the composition is rich and earthy even as it dries down to a skin scent. It fades away around the six hour mark on me.

Let me reiterate, Odalisque has a melancholy undercurrent running throughout the composition. From the inky oakmoss, to the buttery jasmine, to the powdery orris, this is a fragrance alive with texture. All of these sensations take Odalisque from a pretty, dreamy fragrance to a haunting one. It’s a Romantic fragrance, capital R intended. Odalisque is Coleridge’s Christabel or Keats’ La Belle Dame sans Merci. Not because it’s a major femme fatale fragrance, but the element of darkness here has to be acknowledged. Moreover, I think the vintage character of the fragrance lends a serious-minded feel, ultimately making Odalisque both elegant and intelligent.

The official Parfums de Nicolai website can be a bit confusing to figure out but they do ship worldwide. Parfums de Nicolai fragrances are also available from Luckyscent, which is where I got my sample.

Both the image and info on notes* are from Fragrantica.

*as a note: Luckyscent lists lily-of-the-valley, jasmine, and iris root as the only notes in Odalisque. However, the notes listed over at Fragrantica reflect the pyramid found on the Parfums de Nicolai website. It seems more accurate to my nose as well, so that’s what I went with.

Parfums de Nicolai; L’Eau Chic

Notes: Bourbon geranium, peppermint, spearmint, lavender, sandalwood, Roman chamomile, iris, clove, pimiento, white musks

It is impossible to have a better pedigree than Patricia de Nicolai. The grand-daughter of Pierre Guerlain, was trained by Jean-Paul Guerlain, she was the first woman to be awarded ‘best international perfumer’ from the Society of French Perfumers in 1988. She is now the current president of the Osmothèque, the perfume museum at Versailles. Quite an impressive resume! She also owns her own small company, Parfums de Nicolai, where she has complete control to realize her own vision. And how lucky for us because her vision is quite striking.

The inspiration for L’Eau Chic is the geranium-scented soap Madame de Nicolai recalls from her childhood home. This is definitely a soapy/fresh fragrance and, at the same time, it’s so much more than that. L’Eau Chic manages to be refreshing without giving off cleaning product or air freshener vibes. Nor would I really refer to it as a ‘green’ fragrance, despite the freshness (and the green tint).

Geranium is at the center of this composition, yet I don’t think of this as floral. Lavender adds a cool herbal quality, dialing down the floral. The pimiento and clove open up the spicy, peppery facets of geranium, and the spice enlivens L’Eau Chic so that it feels almost effervescent. It positively jumps off the skin, radiating a piquant freshness. But the mint is the star note to me. It is present throughout wear-time, blending well with the lavender, and off-setting the spices so that L’Eau Chic never veers off-balance into something too spicy or overbearing.

This is a perfect composition, delicate but surprisingly tenacious; the fresh factor never wears off throughout wear time. I could see L’Eau Chic working all year round, but it’s especially perfect for keeping you refreshed on those sticky, humid summer days. I will never think of ‘soapy’ fragrances in the same way again after trying L’Eau Chic. This is a standout.

I couldn’t resist snagging a full bottle of this. Chic to death.

Parfums de Nicolai; L’Eau Chic: $45 for 30ml // $115 for 100 ml. Samples and full bottles available from Luckyscent.

{Image Source}

Sunny Weather Fragrances

I haven’t posted in a week, and it isn’t because I fell off the face of the internet. Rather, a freak change in weather has had me perplexed about what perfume to wear. It reached 85 degrees here yesterday, which is extremely unusual. I’m pretty sure that we were battling snow at this time last year. My clothing wardrobe and my fragrance wardrobe have been completely thrown off by this sudden heat. I’ve been digging around my stash of samples and bottles this week, and this is what I’ve come up with to wear:

L’Artisan Parfumeur; Timbuktu: This opens with a splash of sharp green mango, so sharp that it’s almost limey. I normally don’t go in for anything so evidently fruity, but the fruit is quickly balanced by a warm woodiness coming from the papyrus wood heartnote. I view this fragrance as a version of Un Jardin sur le Nil with a bit more oomph. The fruity green topnotes are sheer enough for warm weather, but the basenotes of wood, myrrh, and vetiver anchor this scent and ensure that it’s long-lasting. The wood gives off a strange kind of sweaty vibe in the drydown but, what can I say? Sweating L’Artisan appeals to me. I loved my sample so much, I sprung for a full bottle of this.

{Timbuktu: $100 for 50 ML, $145 for 100 ml}

HEELEY; Menthe Fraiche: As you might expect, this one begins with a blast of mint that’s so strong, it’s almost medicinal. Menthe Fraiche develops into quite the herbal composition, with notes of green tea and some bergamot creeping in. Again, no surprises, but this is quite a cool, icy scent. Once you know the name of this fragrance, it performs pretty much exactly as you’d expect. This is an incredibly refreshing mint with herbal undertones. Menthe Fraiche gives the sensation of  briefly cracking the freezer open on a warm day. I wore this one on St Patrick’s Day and it served me well all day.

{Menthe Fraiche: $136 for 100 ml}

Parfums de Nicolai; L’Eau Mixte: This offering definitely leans masculine, as the citrus is abrasive and astringent at first sniff, and remains detectible all throughout wear time. However, I love wearing it on truly hot days. Not every office building/shop/restaurant has turned on air conditioning yet, and this is the perfect fragrance to cut right through the humidity. There’s a fizzy effervescence here that’s really appealing. Jasmine and musk anchor this and keep it from smelling too much like a sparkling orange juice cocktail. I get around 6 hours of wear time out of this, which is quite good for a cologne.

{L’Eau Mixte: $45 for 30 ml, $115 for $100 ml}

All three of these fragrances are available from Luckyscent.

Do you change your fragrance wardrobe according to the season? What are some of your warm weather favorites?

Image: The Open Window, Collioure; Henri Matisse; 1905