jo malone – This Side of Perfume

Jo Malone Week

April 26, 2020

Hi, everyone!

Brigitte decided to do a fun Jo Malone week and I joined in with her. The only day I didn’t wear JM was on Saturday, when I wore Diptyque’s Do Son. It’s fun to do a theme week every once in awhile.

The Jo Malone theme made me realize that I miss having a bottle of Wood Sage & Sea Salt. I finished my 30 ml bottle a few months ago and haven’t repurchased. I definitely would have worn it this week if I still owned it. Maybe once lockdown starts to ease up, I’ll repurchase it as a little treat.

Monday: Honeysuckle & Davana
Tuesday: English Pear & Freesia
Wednesday: Geranium & Verbena
Thursday: Black Cedarwood & Juniper
Friday: Honeysuckle & Davana
Saturday: Diptyque Do Son EDT

The only JM bottle that I own but didn’t wear was Dark Amber & Ginger Lily. I just wasn’t in the mood for it this past week, but I’ll have to wear it sometime soon.

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The photo was taken by me. Nothing in this post was gifted.

Dark Amber & Ginger Lily by Jo Malone

April 10, 2019

Notes: cardamom, ginger, pink pepper, jasmine, orchid, water lily, rose, leather, sandalwood, Kyara incense, patchouli, and black amber.

Jo Malone was one of the first fragrance houses that I explored in depth back around 2011- 2012 because it’s reasonably accessible and I initially found the scents approachable. Some people swear by Jo Malone. Others dislike the Eau de Cologne formulations and lament the lack of staying power. I truly can see both sides. I’ve explored many other brands and houses by this point, but Jo Malone still has a special place in perfumery for me (even though Jo Malone herself is no longer with the house). Dark Amber & Ginger Lily is part of the Cologne Intense line, and I definitely get more sillage from this than other Jo Malone scents. Dark Amber & Ginger Lily was originally composed by Jo Malone herself, so it holds a special place in my collection.

I sense the opening of Dark Amber & Ginger Lily in color. It’s very green, cut through with dashes of yellow and pink. I also sense water, as in rain drops or dew drops sitting on green leaves and flower petals. I imagine it’s like being in a rainforest. So, what does it actually smell like? I get zingy ginger and fizzy cardamom right away. I also get a floral note, but not heavy. It’s as though the water lily is rendered in watercolor. It’s vivid and yet in the background somehow. The sillage from the opening and through the first hour is great. It’s not too much, but nicely noticeable.

The incense starts to waft in and out as wear time goes on. I know this fragrance is named for amber, but incense is the star for me. The incense is not medicinal here, nor is it dry or cold. It comes across as quite warm to me and has a calming effect. It balances out the watery floral effect from the water lily, but without being too smoky. This is the kind of incense I’d love to burn while doing my at-home yoga practice. Maybe I will simply wear Dark Amber & Ginger Lily while practicing!

There certainly is an amber effect here, but the actual accord comes across like ambergris to me. The base is a slightly sweaty/ambery skin scent. Remember, this is Jo Malone, so it’s not sweaty in an off-putting way. It’s about as refined as you can get for a skin scent, and it’s blended with a dry patchouli. The ginger seems to come back to my nose and spice up the patchouli. There is also a green effect again, which brings the composition full circle. I’ve seen multiple comments on Fragrantica mentioning a coconut note in the dry down. That doesn’t show up on my skin at all, but I’m just putting it out there because it seems to be present for other people. It’s really a beautiful dry down, and extremely elegant.

I have to report that, even though I get quite a nice sillage trail, I don’t get more pronounced longevity from this “Cologne Intense” concentration. I get between 5- 6 hours of wear time (5 hours is average for me with Jo Malone). I don’t mind because I tend to wear this scent at night, so I’m not looking for it to last me a full 8 hour work day. That being said, I think you could pull this off as a daytime scent, depending on the weather and the occasion, etc.

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I purchased my 50 ml bottle from Nordstrom online. I’m happy to see Jo Malone offering a 50 ml size as the regular line is only available in 30 ml or 100 ml. I personally love the 50 ml bottle. It’s the perfect size for both use and storage.

The list of notes is via fragrantica.

The photo of my bottle was taken by me.

What I Wore This Week

December 16, 2018

Here’s this week’s round-up of What I Wore!

Monday: La Religieuse by Serge Lutens
Tuesday: Wood Sage and Sea Salt by Jo Malone
Wednesday: Misia EDT Les Exclusifs de Chanel
Thursday: Serpentine by Roberto Cavalli
Friday: Honeysuckle and Davana by Jo Malone
Saturday: Dear Polly by Vilhelm Parfumerie

What did you guys wear this week?

Honeysuckle & Davana by Jo Malone

September 19, 2018

Notes: artemisia, rose, honeysuckle, and moss.

I always love a Fall release from Jo Malone London. I love the tradition of visiting my local counter and trying the new annual release. It really puts me in the mood for the transition to Fall. This year’s release, Honeysuckle & Davana is a green floral, which might come across as more springy, but I’m really enjoying wearing it right now. There’s something about it that just feels right for the moment to me.

Honeysuckle & Davana opens with a pretty, blooming honeysuckle note, as you might imagine. The interesting part is that it’s also quite green and herbal from the artemisia note. In researching this perfume composition, I’ve learned that the davana herb is part of the artemisia family. Davana on its own is a chameleon note and can really vary depending on skin chemistry. I wonder if Ann Flipo, the perfumer, cleverly used artemisia here to give that herbal davana feel, while ensuring that it would be a bit less variable according to people’s skin chemistry, (Of course, you can never guarantee what something is going to smell like with someone’s skin chemistry!)

The green herbal note leans to the bitter side, which I enjoy. I’ve seen commenters on Fragrantica saying that it’s too bitter. Safe to say, if you don’t enjoy a green bitter note at all, this scent probably isn’t for you. Luckily, the rose note comes through in the heart and softens the bitterness. My skin chemistry doesn’t pull off a fully blooming rose note very well, and this is why I enjoy the herbal, bitter artemisia so much here. It really balances the composition.

I would have guessed that the dry down is actually sandalwood because it leans very woody on me. The SA at my Jo Malone counter told me that the dry down is musk, so who knows what’s actually going on here! The woody notes that come through on my skin make for a nice transition as the herbal artemisia top note fades. It also blends well with the floral notes. I don’t see anyone being offended by this dry down. It’s just really pleasant and a nice way to close out this composition.

I haven’t enjoyed a Jo Malone release this much since Wood Sage & Sea Salt (which is still a great one). I get 6 hours of wear time before Honeysuckle & Davana completely fades away, which is quite good from Jo Malone. It’s a perfect daytime scent. I’ve even been able to wear it to yoga class without offending anyone with an overbearing fragrance. As always, I urge everyone to test this on out the skin. The paper tester doesn’t pick up the herbal nuances here the way skin chemistry can.

I am really taken with Honeysuckle & Davana. It’s easy to be cynical about so many new releases coming from the fragrance industry as a whole right now, whether it’s mainstream, niche, or indie brands. We’re dealing with over-saturation from just about every corner of the industry. With all of that being said, it feels good to unabashedly enjoy a new release! I hope you’re all finding something to enjoy as well, as we transition to Autumn here.

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Honeysuckle & Davana is available now from Jo Malone, Nordstrom, Saks, and Sephora. I purchased my bottle from the Jo Malone counter at my local Nordstrom.

Photo taken by me.

The list of notes is from Fragrantica.

Mimosa & Cardamom by Jo Malone

October 8, 2015

Notes: cardamom, mimosa, and tonka bean.

Each year it seems like there’s an absolute flood of Fall fragrance releases and it can be overwhelming to keep track of them all. But Jo Malone has become a pillar of reliability in this flurry of releases, and I always know it’s officially Fall when I’ve sampled the new Jo Malone. This year’s release is Mimosa & Cardamom, which is a yellow floral. It’s a typical Jo Malone scent in that it’s very wearable, and I think it makes a good addition to their permanent line.

Mimosa & Cardamom opens as a fresh and slightly green floral. The cardamom is subtle to me, but I know it’s there adding to the green feel. It also keeps the mimosa balanced so that the opening isn’t an overly dense floral explosion. At this stage, I think Mimosa & Cardamom makes a great spring/summer fragrance, and I initially questioned releasing this for Fall.

However, this fresh and balanced opening lasts for about an hour on my skin before I detect the tonka bean slowly making its presence felt. This is where it starts to feel more like a Fall scent. The tonka brings out a creamy texture, adding some depth to the composition. I get the impression of rice pudding: milky, lightly spiced, and with some honey mixed in there as well.

Mimosa & Cardamom definitely takes on a gourmand tinge in the middle stages towards the dry down, so that’s something to be aware of if you’re not a gourmand fan. If you’re interested in this fragrance for the mimosa, don’t worry, the yellow floral aspect is definitely still there. The mimosa develops from a more fresh and green beginning to take on a more dense feel. It’s almost as though you can sense the yellow aspect of this floral blooming and becoming more rich.

The dry down is heavy on vanilla to me. There’s still some creamy tonka, but it’s a mainly a sweet vanilla, like vanilla tea with plenty of milk and sugar. As the fragrance fades from my skin, it’s much less of a floral and more of a cozy comfort scent. I get between 5-6 hours of wear time from Mimosa & Cardamom, which is pretty standard for Jo Malone on my skin.

After test-driving (test-sniffing?) this fragrance, I definitely understand its place as a Fall release. It would probably still be great all year around, but the sweet dry down may become too cloying in hot weather. Moreover, Mimosa & Cardamom gives off a nostalgic feel that suits Fall weather. I think it’s the yellow floral, not as bright as a white floral, nor is it as rich or sexy as a rose. There are gourmand elements to this fragrance, but it doesn’t make me literally crave dessert the way some gourmands do. Instead, it puts me in mind of sepia-toned photographs and leaves that have already turned colors. In that way, Mimosa & Cardamom is actually the perfect scent for this time of year.

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Mimosa & Cardamom is available in 30 ml and 100 ml bottles. It can be found at Jo Malone as well as at the usual department stores: Saks, Neiman Marcus, and Nordstrom. I was able to get a sample from my local Jo Malone counter.

Both the image and info on notes are directly from Jo Malone.

Birch & Black Pepper by Jo Malone

March 19, 2015

Notes: mandarin orange, cardamom, black pepper, birch, patchouli, Gurjan balsam, vanilla, and ink.

Jo Malone has released a spring collection for 2015 is called “Rock the Ages” with the five scents in the collection representing different eras of British history. Birch & Black Pepper is meant to represent modern Britain. As the Jo Malone site describes it, this fragrance is: “a scent of contrasts” and “individual, audacious, stylish.” For once, the marketing might actually be right, since Birch & Black Pepper really does come across as modern, especially with the intriguing ink accord. It’s definitely the most unique scent from the Rock the Ages collection.

Birch & Pepper opens like an aromatic spice scent, with cardamom fizzing off the skin and black pepper crackling in the background. I smell just a hint of orange, but this isn’t a fruity scent by any means. I believe it’s just here to ensure that the opening remains light and effervescent, which it does. There aren’t many Jo Malone fragrances I would describe as “heavy” and, indeed, the opening of Birch & Black Pepper has a sheer quality to it.

The central birch note appears within a few minutes of wear time and adds depth to the composition as it develops. The birch here is warm, and subtly smokey. To me, it takes on a resemblance to black leather as it develops, but this is not a buttery smooth leather. There is some texture here, almost like the pattern birch bark leaves as it peels away from the tree trunk.

It’s appropriate that this composition contains ink because its development reminds me of an ink stain, steadily growing deeper as ink continues to spill. The ink accord here is medicinal, metallic, challenging to wear, but so interesting. Wearing this, it was like I had been reading the newspaper and now had ink smudged on my fingertips.

I’ve worn Birch & Black Pepper out a few times now while trying to get to know it better. I have to admit, there was something jarring about wearing this one while casually shopping or running errands. You really have to hit on the right mood and right occasion for this fragrance. The smokey birch lends it an outdoorsy feel, and I think this could work well for a dinner eaten outside on a summery evening.

The SA at my Jo Malone counter said that Birch & Black Pepper has not been one of the better sellers from this collection, and I can see why. It’s not a pretty perfume to wear to a party and receive lots of compliments. Still, standing out is good, and I’m glad the company released this one even though it’s different. The ink makes me think Birch & Black Pepper will pair well with sitting outside this summer, lost in a good book, and I look forward to it.

The “Rock the Ages” collection is limited edition, and each scent is available in a 30 ml bottle. The collection is available from Jo Malone online, and at retailers like Saks and Nordstrom. I bought my bottle of Birch & Black Pepper from the Jo Malone counter at my local Nordstrom. In my experience, Jo Malone SAs have been happy to give out samples when asked. Samples of Jo Malone scents are also available online from The Perfumed Court.

Image and info on notes are both from Fragrantica.

Jo Malone’s Wood Sage & Sea Salt

September 26, 2014

Notes: ambrette seed, sea salt, sage, seaweed, and grapefruit.

I’ve been excited to try this newest Jo Malone release ever since it was first announced back in the spring, although I remember thinking at the time that it seemed odd to release a salty, beachy scent at the end of summer. Now that I’ve actually sampled the fragrance, I see that autumn is the right time of year for this. It adds a touch of brightness to the crisp, cool mornings, yet is still refreshing enough for warm September afternoons.

For me, Wood Sage & Sea Salt opens with a splash of grapefruit and a spicy sensation that’s much more like black pepper than like salt. It’s refreshing and bracing, but not overwhelming. I wouldn’t describe this as a fruity scent though. The grapefruit fades rather quickly, and the peppery opening quiets down.

In its place, a briny scent that must be from the seaweed comes to the fore. This is where the saltiness begins to come through. There’s a marine aspect here mixed with a green flavor. The ambrette acts as a musk-like base, and through all of this, salt begin to appear as though in waves (I assume this process is helped by skin chemistry and natural everyday sweat too).

Wood Sage & Sea Salt is refreshing on the whole, and exactly like a sea breeze. I confess I don’t get much sage or anything woodsy here (I find the base more generally warm and musky). Still, this is a well-blended and nicely detailed composition. There’s a bit of an edge to keep this fragrance from personifying a purely sunny beach, with the bite from the salt echoing the tangy grapefruit opening. It puts me in mind of the beaches I’ve visited in Scotland where the wind is bitter and unrelenting, even in July. But, if you’re in the right mood for it, it’s absolutely invigorating, just like the best autumn weather.

Wood Sage & Sea Salt is reportedly perfumer Christine Nagel’s last fragrance for Jo Malone. Despite the lack of floral notes, this scent fits right in with the brand’s current profile, but we will see where Jo Malone goes from here.

Wood Sage & Sea Salt is available from Jo Malone, Nordstrom, and from Saks. The Perfumed Court carries Jo Malone samples, although I don’t currently see Wood Sage & Sea Salt on offer, perhaps they are sold out. I got my sample (and eventually a 30 ml bottle) from my local Jo Malone counter.

Both the image and info on perfume notes are from Fragrantica.

What I’m Wearing: Summer Edition

June 12, 2014

Water Lilies and Japanese Bridge by Monet

I love sampling and writing reviews of different fragrances, but what I’m sampling doesn’t always correspond with what I’m wearing day-to-day. And since I do significantly change up my fragrances depending on the season, this seemed like the perfect time to take a break from the regular review format.

The month of June here has been humid, stormy, and grey in general so far – not the most picturesque start to summer. And while it hasn’t gotten outright hot yet, the humidity means the heat has been felt nonetheless. So, here are a few fragrances I’ve been wearing to combat or complement the weather:

Jo Malone; Peony & Blush Suede: sometimes I wake up in the morning knowing exactly what outfit and what fragrance I want to wear, while other times I have no clue. Peony & Blush Suede is the scent I’ve been defaulting to when I can’t figure out what to wear, and for one simple reason: it’s never the wrong thing to wear. This is good for the office, for running errands, even for working out (if you’re into perfume at the gym). Peony & Blush Suede is sweet, but the bright red apple top note keeps it on the refreshing side, and the humidity and I are both thankful that this never falls into sticky-sweet territory. It dries down into a very soft, appealing skin scent (I see the suede influence). I’m almost out of my 30 ml bottle of this, and I use this one so often, I’m considering ordering the 100 ml version next.

Dolce & Gabbana; Light Blue: Light Blue has become a veteran of the mass market, so much so that it’s practically ubiquitous these days (I’ve noticed Sephora is promoting it especially hard this summer). That doesn’t mean Light Blue is unworthy of the attention. In fact, this scent is a deceptively interesting blend: a mass market sheer fruity-floral that isn’t sweet. The zesty citrus top notes give it an effervescent champagne-like quality, while the dose of cedar grounds the composition, making this the rare sheer fragrance that still manages to pack a punch. The longevity is remarkable for an EdT, I easily get 8 hours of wear time from this. I’ve been wearing Light Blue on and off for ten years now, and I find myself returning to it again and again as a dependable warm weather fragrance.

Diptyque; Tam Dao: The opening of Tam Dao is so sharp, dry, and green that it’s almost medicinal. It could be off-putting to some, but on the hottest of days, I crave that blast of greenness, it’s the only cure for the heat. And anyway, sandalwood is the star of the show here, the prickling green opening merely paves the way. As the sandalwood makes its presence known, Tam Dao takes on a creamy texture. But this isn’t the rich creaminess of something like Tom Ford’s Santal Blush; this isn’t vanilla-based. The creaminess is only here to give texture and depth, while the sandalwood remains dry as a bone. I usually associate woody fragrances with Autumn/Winter, but Tam Dao is perfect for summer, exerting enough of a dry, green edge to cut through any hot day.

By Kilian; A Taste of Heaven: This is one of the strangest green fragrances I’ve yet tried. A Taste of Heaven is literally green juice in the bottle, presumably done to imitate absinthe, it’s inspiration. Luckily, this isn’t quite as lurid green as absinthe, but wearing it may be just as much of a trip. Despite the lavender and bergamot, I can’t say that this is a particularly refreshing green fragrance. It has fresh qualities for sure, especially when first sprayed on. But this also takes on a creamy texture, and where Tam Dao remains dry, A Taste of Heaven is vanilla-based, and so it takes on a gourmand aspect. The vanilla and tonka bean give this an edible quality, so that A Taste of Heaven always ends up reminding me of cream soda. I enjoy spritzing this on and letting all the different aspects unfold, from the fresh, aromatic, and lightly spicy beginning to the textured dry-down. This is a weird, yet appealing choice for a summer night out.

What fragrances have you been enjoying so far this summer?

{Image source}

Midnight in London; Black Cedarwood & Juniper

April 17, 2014

Notes: cumin, chili leaves, juniper, cedar.

I’ve only been to London twice, and, if you can believe it, I escaped London downpours both times. So I can’t speak to the exact accuracy of Jo Malone’s London Rain collection. However, like any interesting fragrance, this collection is more about evoking a certain mood rather than reflecting reality.

The London Rain fragrance that immediately jumped out at me as the moodiest is Black Cedarwood & Juniper. When I say “jumped out at me” I mean that literally. The chili leaves make the opening of this fragrance a lively one and, at first spray, this sparkles on the skin. But despite the effervescent opening, this scent isn’t entirely “fresh” smelling. There’s an intriguing savory edge, which is probably due to the unique combination of cumin and chili leaves.

Black Cedarwood really comes to life once the cedar begins to peek through. I get hints of it about half an hour into wear time, and it’s like late afternoon sunlight filtering into the room through the slats of your blinds. Cedar, with its rich distinctive smell, enhances the savory atmosphere of the composition while adding some much needed dimension and depth.

You may be wondering where the rain aspect comes into play in this fragrance. I believe that’s the juniper’s job, as it has a slightly more cool and aquatic feel than the other notes at work here. This composition could easily become overheated and overstuffed with too-rich ingredients, but the juniper heart keeps everything in perfect Jo Malone order.

Still, Black Cedarwood is the least sheer of the London Rain fragrances. There’s something about this scent that feels tangible on the skin, almost edible. This is noticeable in the drydown, where the cedar is balanced out by a creaminess. But this isn’t a typically cozy, creamy vanilla dry down, as something of that intriguing edge from the opening remains.

It’s this edge that gives Black Cedarwood an urban feel and most clearly evokes nighttime London. Because this is a Jo Malone scent, the composition is never going to get too heedlessly dirty and out of control. This isn’t a messy night out. It was a classy affair that maybe got wild for a bit there, but it’s your secret to keep now that you’re home and settled into bed. In the morning, traces of smudged eyeliner will be the only hint of what might have taken place last night.

The sales rep I spoke to at Nordstrom said that Black Cedarwood has been their best-selling fragrance from the London Rain collection, and it’s easy to see why. It’s so strikingly different from the rest of the collection, you can’t help but take notice of it and appreciate it for being so unique. In the end, I found it irresistible and had to go for a full bottle.

Black Cedarwood & Juniper (along with the rest of the London Rain Collection) can be found at Jo Malone, and at retailers like Saks, Neiman Marcus, and Nordstrom. The London Rain Collection is limited edition and comes in the 100 mls size only.

Image and info on fragrance notes are from fragrantica.