Category: reviews

Brand Spotlight: Pink MahogHany

September 24, 2020

Chavalia Mwamba is the brand founder and perfumer for Pink MahogHany or PM Fragrances. Yes, there is an extra H in the word mahogany, as Chavalia intended! Like many perfume and beauty brands at the moment, I discovered PM fragrances through instagram.

Following-up on recommendations from social media can be a gamble. Some recommendations have fallen flat for me, but that’s just what happens with perfume and skin chemistry. Luckily, there is a PM Fragrances discovery set and individual samples. I initially ordered three samples to test: Tandem, French Cuffs, and Pas Encore Nommé. I ended up really enjoying all three.

I wanted to do a write-up about Le Minimaliste, which is a special release. Chavalia released two versions of Le Minimaliste in honor of Leo Season, which is her sun sign — and also mine! I was intrigued by the idea of two versions of the same composition. It’s like a comparative literature experiment for fragrance junkies.

Version I Notes: mixed berry, grapefruit, mandarin des fleurs, peony, rose damask, prunella, fig, champaca, neroli, ambroxan, vanilla bean accord, ambrettolide, and honey.

Version II notes: lemon, green mandarin, raspberry, neroli, honey, tinctured cypress, star anise, copaiba, cedar, modernized amber, ambroxan, cashmere, vetiver, and musk.

I initially had my eye on Version II. I figured it would be right up my alley, with the raspberry note in the opening and the cedar in the base. I smelled Version II as soon as it arrived and gave it a wear test. It gives great sillage right off the bat and it even lasted on my skin through yoga and a shower. Version II is definitely a scent for all the longevity lovers out there.

Version I has been a little more challenging for me. Grapefruit is a note that I don’t always love with my skin chemistry, and it’s right there in the opening. It’s quite sharp, but I think the composition blend works for me. I get a peppery peony note. I also sense a ripe fig note that is fruity to my nose, not a green fig leaf. Version I also wears more quietly on my skin, especially in the honeyed vanilla base. It’s not a projection monster, which is not always a bad thing.

At a certain point, I had to stop comparing and take each composition on its own terms. The grapefruit and fig of Version I gives me early morning vibes. The bright fruit really wakes you up without being too loud. Version I is nice on work-from-home mornings where I just don’t want to get out of bed. That’s most mornings in 2020!

Whereas the raspberry/honey accord in Version II is a late Fall afternoon scent to me. The raspberry is just jammy and sweet enough without going to saccharine territory. There’s a peppery smokiness in the base that reminds me of a hearty, smoky black tea. It puts me in the mood for a cup of tea and toast with jam. Both scents are lovely and they each have their specific moods and occasions.

Le Minimaliste is limited edition. It looks like it’s still available as of right now (September 2020) if you are interested. Unfortunately, because it’s limited, there are no samples. Both versions are available in a travel size, as you can see from the photo. I recommend trying some individual samples or the PM discovery set to get a feel for Chavalia’s work.

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The photo was taken by me.

I ordered Le Minimaliste Version II from the PM Fragrances Etsy shop. Chavalia reached out to myself and other customers because of some packaging and shipping delays. She very generously included both versions of Le Minimaliste for everyone who had ordered at the time to make up for the delays.

Brand Spotlight: Chris Collins

July 29, 2020

A couple of weeks ago, I participated in a zoom session with Chris Collins arranged by Tigerlily Perfumery. The event was open to anyone who wanted to sign up. There was a registration fee, and it included a discovery set with samples of his current line, plus two samples of up-coming launches. I have to thank my friend, Christina, who alerted me to this event.

It was a non-work zoom session and it was actually really fun! Chris was very personable and talkative. He is the brand founder and creative director, and he works closely with perfumers to realize his vision. He came across as very passionate and said that it sometimes brings him to tears when he and the perfumer get it right with the composition.

Tigerlily sent the sample set, which includes his current line-up.

Harlem Renaissance Collection

  • These scents are composed by Laurent Marrone

Harlem Nights: My impression is that this is a good introductory scent to Chris’ vision. It’s a boozy, rum-centric scent. There are also spices, vanilla, and patchouli to round it out. The word that comes to mind for this scent is classic.

Renaissance Man: This one is interesting and definitely not just for men. It opens with a fresh marine accord, but it’s not a calone bomb. It’s more oceanic, and the marine notes don’t last long on my skin. Renaissance turns into a yummy honey and tobacco scent, at least with my skin chemistry. It’s a touch powdery. It’s entirely unisex.

Danse Sauvage is also part of this line but it was unavailable for samples due to some covid-related delays.

Dark Romance Collection

  • These scents are composed by Nathalie Feisthauer

Autumn Rhythm: Unfortunately, this one just doesn’t work with my skin chemistry. It’s too bad because there’s a great leather accord here. There’s also some interesting texture happening, like dried leaves crunching underfoot. However, there is a dill note that smells like pickles on me. Christina mentioned it too so it’s not just me! I get a similar dill pickle effect from Marc Jacobs Decadence. If you like that one, you may be able to wear Autumn Rhythm.

Oud Galore: I am, quite frankly, tired of oud scents being everywhere. Fortunately, the oud here is not overbearing. It’s actually quite wearable, even in the summer. I really get more rose than oud. The rose leans on the fresh, green side to me. This really is a rose/oud composition for spring/summer, which is great. There aren’t many of those.

Sweet Taboo: My personal favorite of the collection. It’s a gourmand but not overbearingly sweet. There is a roast coffee note that I appreciate. I’m always looking for coffee, but I want a bitter coffee, not a sugary coffee. This comes close to what I am looking for. The cacao nibs bring an earthy and dry note to the composition. There’s green cardamom and clary sage to add a green and aromatic aspect. Then there’s a healthy dose of cinnamon to keep things on the delectable side of gourmand.

Tokyo Blue: This is the most interesting one in the collection for me. It’s also the most personal for Chris. He said it was inspired by his Dad. It’s mainly a violet leaf on me mixed with a smooth orris. Tokyo Blue is the lightest in terms of sillage, but it feels quite dense on the skin, if that makes sense. It has a weightiness to it, and maybe it’s the orris acting as a solid anchor for the composition. It’s so smooth, I just want to keep smelling it! I would be interested to smell this one on a man and see how it changes with skin chemistry.

I won’t comment on the two as-yet unreleased scents except to say they’re both nice. Chris couldn’t share the scent names or launch dates yet, so I’ll wait until we have some definitive information.

Overall, the impression I get is that this is a very classic and elegant line. (Chris is a former Ralph Lauren model, after all!) I have seen some women comment that they assumed these fragrances are only for men. From what Chris has said, and from what I’ve smelled, that’s not the case. These scents are for anyone who wants to try them.

It looks like Tigerlily still has the sample set available (and they have individual samples if you only want to test a couple of scents.)

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The photo was taken by me. Nothing in this post was gifted. I paid the zoom registration and discovery set fee myself.

Brand Spotlight: Motif Olfactif

June 17, 2020

Motif Olfactif is a US-based independent and Black-owned fragrance brand. Oswald Paré is the founder and the perfumer. In fact, he does everything from the fragrance formulations, to designing the packaging, and marketing the brand.

Oswald Paré was born in Burkina Faso, attended university in Minnesota, and now lives in the US. I’m sure this has given him a richness of perspective, and I think you can smell it in his compositions. I received four scents as part of the current discovery set, and each scent feels so imaginative. They take you on a journey, which is my favorite aspect of fragrance.

Mon Oasis: This one stood out to me right away. A cooling lavender, blended with a blooming jasmine, with a subtle undercurrent of smoky tobacco. It reminds me a little bit of Do Son with that luminous white floral quality, and a little bit of Carven Le Parfum, with its slightly smoky jasmine. And yet, Mon Oasis is a fragrance all its own. It takes me to a place of peace and calm. It’s really an oasis.

Nectar Boisé: I don’t have synesthesia, but I sense this one as a bright, dense orange color. There’s a lovely peachy-fruit and vanilla accord. I get a Serge Lutens vibe with that dried, candied fruit note you often smell in a Christopher Sheldrake composition for Lutens. It’s funny, I don’t find Nectar Boisé sweet or gourmand though. It definitely has a warmth and a richness, but it’s balanced. It’s refined. I think this one is the most sophisticated composition of the group.

Vêtu de Vert: This is the one in the bunch that just doesn’t work with my skin chemistry. It’s bound to happen, and 3 out of 4 isn’t bad! There is a wet soil accord here that just does not mesh with my skin. The composition seems to hover slightly on top of my skin and never develops or changes.

Voile d’Encens: This incense scent is pure balsamic, resinous heaven. It feels textured, like a layer of dust on a hymnal in a church pew. It feels so tangible. The cedar stands out here as well. I just love it. It’s also the scent with the strongest sillage and longest staying power on my skin. This reminds me just a touch of my beloved Costes EDT by Olivia Giacobetti, and I mean that as a huge compliment.

There are two other scents that are currently sold out: De Toma à Zouma and Murmure Chypré. Those two scents are not part of the current sample set, so I haven’t tested them.

Cafleurbon has a recent write-up on Oswald here. It’s a really interesting article, if you’re interested in learning more about the brand and the perfumer behind it.

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The photo was taken by me. I purchased the discovery set directly from the Motif Olfactif site. It was not gifted to me.

What I Wore This Week

May 3, 2020

Hi, everyone! I’m officially on eight weeks of lockdown here. I’ve been relying to some of my favorite scents to get through it, like No. 19 and Magnolia Nobile.

  • Monday: Magnolia Nobile by Acqua di Parma
  • Tuesday: Timbre EDP by Chris Rusak
  • Wednesday: Fidji by Guy Laroche
  • Thursday: Chanel No. 19 EDT
  • Friday & Saturday: Fig-Tea by Parfums de Nicolai

I hope you’re all holding up well! What did you wear?

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The photo was taken by me. Nothing in this post was gifted.

1932 EDT by Chanel

September 18, 2019

Notes: aldehydes, neroli, bergamot, jasmine, rose, ylang-ylang, carnation, lilac, vetiver, orris root, opoponax, sandalwood, incense, musk, ambrette, vanilla, and coumarin.

Chanel has now infamously discontinued the EDT concentrations of its Exclusifs collection in favor of EDP compositions. The driving factor seems to have been money, since the EDPs debuted with quite a price hike. There is also the fact that longevity and “performance” now seem to be vaunted above all else in fragrance reviews on social media. It’s what everyone wants to know. How does it perform? I personally don’t mind an EDT or even a good Eau de Cologne concentration (I clearly love Jo Malone). And I think 1932 is a stellar example of of a Jacques Polge EDT composition, so that’s what this post is all about.

Like a classic Chanel composition, 1932 opens with a familiar dose of aldehydes, bright neroli, and sparkling bergamot. Then Chanel florals start making their way in with a soft rose, jasmine, and ylang-ylang. I get a hint of carnation, but it’s mostly rose for me. I do not get a lilac here. The ylang-ylang is the stand-out note for me. It’s a such a creamy and rich ylang note without taking over the composition. It’s not too yellow or banana pudding, yet it gives you just enough of a yellow floral impression. The best part is that it blends seamlessly into the base notes of sandalwood and vanilla.

I love the base and the dry down of 1932. It’s my favorite aspect of this composition. I first received my samples in the spring. At that time, my skin really amplified the florals. When I wear 1932 now in September, the base notes come through more prominently. I typically don’t love musk, but it blends so well with the vanilla and coumarin here. The sandalwood is noticeable too but, again, it doesn’t dominate. The base really is seamless. It’s such a yummy and delicious blend, it could almost be edible. But 1932 is not a gourmand. It has that balance and refinement that marks it as a Chanel scent.

I find it interesting to  look back on Jacques Polge’s compositions, particularly now that his Exclusifs have all been reformulated. His 1932 EDT smells like such a classic, that I could envision it being part of the main Chanel fragrance line. I could see it fitting in somewhere between the Coco EDT and Allure. And I don’t mean that as a knock against 1932. I think it demonstrates the cohesion of Jacques Polge’s work for Chanel. Olivier Polge still seems to be searching for that cohesive and classic Chanel composition. His work has been hit or miss so far. I think if Gabrielle had a deeper base similar to 1932, it would be a surefire hit, but that wasn’t the brief for Gabrielle.

By the way, I’ve heard rumblings that No. 19 and Cristalle Eau Verte are headed for a more limited distribution. They will be available from Chanel boutiques and and the Chanel website, but may no longer be available from larger department stores and counters.

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I purchased samples of 1932 and 28 La Pausa from ebay. The Exclusif EDTs are definitely still circulating out there on ebay, but the full bottles go for a hefty price.

The info on notes is via fragrantica.

The photo was taken by me. The background image is from the Chanel S/S 2019 magazine.

Nothing in this post was gifted to me.

Io by Chris Rusak

September 11, 2019

Notes: incense, soil tincture, cedar, peat, cypress leaf, labdanum, dried peppers, smoke, and tree resins.

Io is first and foremost an incense composition, but not in your typical way. I am Catholic and grew up going to Catholic school, so my immediate incense association is with attending mass. I think one of the reasons I’m so drawn to Io is that it is decidedly not a church incense. It’s not necessarily a warm and snuggly scent to me either, although it’s very appropriate for Autumn.

I’m describing what Io is not, but what does it actually smell like? On first spray, the soil tincture comes through most prominently to me. It’s the pure smell of nature. You can almost feel the texture of the dirt. It’s very primal. Then, just in case the smell of actual dirt isn’t enough nature for you, the unmistakable smell of forest fire smoke wafts through along with an intense, black cedar wood. Yes, indeed, we are well out of the realm of church incense here! The opening of Io is elemental. It’s earth and fire and blackened wood.

So, where is the incense? Give it some time. Io’s powerful opening takes about 20 minutes to settle down on my skin. The swirling smoke dies down to a more gentle waft of dry incense. The intense earthy soil note also settles, but the composition retains that textural aspect. It’s dry in texture, almost flinty, even. But, what strikes me, is how rich the resins feel. It just goes to show that you don’t always need to amp up creamy vanilla or amber accords to create a richness of depth. Io’s resinous base has an elegance to it because of the balance between richness and texture.

I said that I don’t find Io particularly cuddly or snuggly. It’s not a comfort scent for me. It’s meditative, which is different than pure comfort. I wear Io in the evenings at home. It’s September and it’s Virgo season. I’ve been getting back to my to-do lists and my daily routines. Io serves me well in my nighttime routine when I do evening yoga and my skincare routine. Io has a sense of grounded earthiness, but it also has a spiritual or cerebral component with the resins and incense. Io is a great companion for this transitional time of year, as we all try to ground ourselves and find our footing between the seasons.

*I’m friendly with Chris on social media. I gave him a heads up that I was planning to write this post about Io just so he would be aware of it. This post is not sponsored content. Chris actually has a note on his site stating that he doesn’t do influencer giveaways or content of that nature.

Edited to add: Chris is super friendly to talk to and, best of all, is a perfume junkie. He can be found on twitter @chrisrusak and on instagram @chris.rusak.perfume — if you have any questions for him!

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The photo of my sample was taken by me. The information on raw materials and notes is via Fragrantica and Chris Rusak’s site. As stated, nothing in this post was sponsored or gifted.

Carnal Flower by Dominique Ropion for Frédéric Malle

August 21, 2019

Notes: eucalyptus, tuberose, orange blossom, melon, coconut, jasmine, ylang-ylang, bergamot, and musk.

I ordered a decant of Carnal Flower this past January. I had come to terms with Portrait of a Lady, and I decided it was time to get acquainted with the other grand dame floral of Monsieur Malle’s collection. I don’t know what possessed me to try and wear a huge white floral during one of our coldest winters ever, but that’s what I did. Reader, it did not go well. I found Carnal Flower strange. Unappealing, even. The eucalyptus was sharp and unpleasant. The composition never seemed to settle into my skin in the cold weather. I couldn’t understand the popularity of this fragrance at all. I just didn’t get it.

In terms of tuberose scents, I’ve been wearing Diptyque’s Do Son EDT. It’s light, ethereal and very pretty. It gets along with my skin chemistry in both cold and warm weather. A little voice in the back of my mind told me to save the rest of my Carnal Flower decant for the summer. Lately, when I have the urge to wear Do Son, I instead spritz on some Carnal Flower and it’s working much, much better. The eucalyptus and bergamot are present, but are not so unpleasantly sharp. In the humidity, both notes bring a welcome green presence.

Carnal Flower is not a huge white floral on me at first spritz. The tuberose takes its time to develop. It comes into full bloom about an hour into wear time, which is when it really seems to settle and meld with my skin. It’s not as lovely or ethereal as Do Son. The tuberose of Carnal Flower has more of a texture to it, more substance. Dominique Ropion apparently added a huge dose of tuberose absolute to the composition, which doesn’t surprise me. The white floral here isn’t dirty to my nose. The sensual or carnal aspect here comes from the tuberose melding with the skin. It’s a wholly sensory experience. The tuberose texture smells and feels so substantial, it’s as though you could reach out and touch the flower petals.

I was a bit wary of the coconut in this composition. Coconut is a trendy ingredient and note these days. (Although it wasn’t when Carnal Flower was first launched in 2005.) It feels like coconut is in every new fragrance release and it’s just too sunscreen-y for me. However, I think it’s a nice supporting player here. It works well in the transition from full bloom heart notes to the dry down. The ylang-ylang also becomes noticeable, bringing a creamy yellow custard vibe, which blends well with the milky coconut.

I was also wary of the white musk base, which is a favorite of Ropion’s. It just doesn’t always play nicely with my skin, and I suspect it’s a big reason Carnal Flower didn’t work for me in cold weather. My skin chemistry and my nose are much more receptive to this dry down in warm, humid weather. I personally prefer a dry, cedar-like base, but I understand that that type of base wouldn’t suit this composition. The creamy, delicious tuberose heart note is my favorite part of this composition, but I recognize that the musk base works in harmony with the rest of Carnal Flower’s structure.

I have yet to add a bottle from Frédéric Malle’s oeuvre to my collection. I’m glad that he has added travel sprays. If I were to add a Malle, it would be either Superstitious or the lovely Eau de Magnolia, which I feel is underrated. I don’t feel the need to splurge for Carnal Flower. Perhaps I would if I lived in Miami or a climate where it would suit the mood year round, but it doesn’t make sense for me currently. The good thing is that I feel I understand Carnal Flower better now. I’m glad that I ordered a decant of this so that I could save it and give it some serious summer wear testing.

Has a similar thing ever happened to any of you? Do you tend to change your opinion as you test a fragrance, or does your first impression usually remain unchanged?

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I ordered my decant from The Perfumed Court. Nothing in this post is gifted or sponsored.

The list of notes is via Fragrantica.

The image is one of Monet’s Nymphéas. This particular work belongs to LACMA Collections. Apparently, it’s not currently on public view, but the image has been made available to the public via LACMA’s website.

Aqua Allegoria Ginger Piccante by Guerlain

August 7, 2019

Notes: bergamot, lemon, ginger, pepper, rose, cedar, and white musk.

Ginger Piccante is my most recent purchase and addition to my collection. I initially tested it back in May and just picked it up when I was recently in New York. I like the Aqua Allegoria collection. It’s a great entry point to Guerlain if you aren’t familiar with the classics and don’t know where to start. Herba Fresca was one of my first full bottles about ten years ago and it definitely got me hooked on Guerlain.

Ginger Piccante opens with a zesty and uplifting citrus. To my nose, the opening is lemon. The bergamot comes in a bit later for me. The ginger really pops for me when sprayed on the skin. It smelled okay on a paper test strip, but it’s really lovely on the skin. It has a typical ginger zing to it, where it goes right through my olfactory system and really wakes me up like a jolt of caffeine. The ginger here also has some depth to it and some nice staying power. One disappointment I have with Hermès Twilly is that I’d love for the ginger to last longer on me. I don’t have that complaint here.

Ginger Piccante settles into a nice ginger/lemon/bergamot accord that is reminiscent of a tea scent. I was a little hesitant when I first noticed this similarity to tea. I tend to drink lemon ginger tea when I have a head cold and I didn’t necessarily want to associate a Guerlain scent with having a cold! Luckily, the composition is a really nice blend and the bergamot lends an Earl Grey vibe to it. As I said, the ginger has a depth to it. This means that it both elevates the composition (by adding some punchiness to the opening) and anchors it on the skin. The ginger lasts well in the heart of the composition for me.

I don’t sense much rose or floral accords here at all. I do get the black pepper as the scent starts drying down and the cedar wood makes itself known. I like black pepper and it adds a little kick just when you think the ginger spice has faded. The base is a dry cedar wood, which is right up my alley. I actually sense a little of the citrus notes popping back in at this point and blending with the cedar. It’s a really nice effect to bring the composition full circle.

As far as longevity, it performs like a typical EDT on me. I get around 5 – 6 hours of wear time. I’ve been wearing Ginger Piccante out to dinner in the evenings over the past couple of weeks, so I really don’t need longer than 5 hours of wear time. I’m excited to wear this one during the day a bit more as we transition to Autumn, as I think the composition will suit slightly cooler weather, too. Overall, I definitely recommend giving this a sample and a wear on the skin, if you can. It’s an interesting addition to the Aqua Allegoria range and I’m happy to have acquired it.

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I bought my bottle at Saks. The kind Sales Associate included an adorable Aqua Allegoria sample set with it. The Aqua Allegoria bottles $105 for 125 mls each and I feel that’s great value for a Guerlain composition.

The list of notes is via Fragrantica.

The photo was taken by me.

Vaporocindro by January Scent Project

June 19, 2019

Notes: lilac, green leaves, green apple, turmeric, black pepper, narcissus, mahogany, agarwood, black currant, cumin, coffee, sandalwood, and ambergris.

Vaporocindro was the first scent I sniffed out of the January Scent Project discovery set and it’s the one I personally connect with the most. I’ve waited to write about it because I want to do right by this scent. The word “vapor” is in the title and this scent is fittingly airy and fleeting. It can smell a bit amorphous at times, hard to pin down. Other times, the notes come through stark and clear: green leaves and black pepper. Like the other JSP compositions from John Biebel, Vaporocindro is a bit of an oddity, but lovely in its uniqueness.

Vaporocindro opens with a crisp and stark green leaf note. This opening reminds me of two compositions by Olivia Giacobetti: the green fig leaves of Philosykos and the herbaceous green of En Passant. I don’t get a fruity fig from Vaporocindro, but there is a tart fruity note. I wouldn’t have identified it specifically as green apple without looking at the notes, but it’s a pleasant tart accord that rounds out the vibrant green opening.

Then the lilac comes in and brings with it both a heady floral aspect and a black pepper spiced facet. I have not smelled a floral accord done quite like this one. It’s substantial — you can clearly sense it. And yet, it’s fleeting, hard to catch hold of, and hard to define. The sillage at this point is a pleasant cloud, and it seems to reinforce Vaporocindro’s airy-fairy nature.

The base notes soon become apparent to help anchor the composition. The ambergris is subdued on my skin, but it does its job as a fixative to keep the composition going. I sense the mahogany note as a deep woody note, close to cedar. I also get incense-like wisps of a black pepper-spiced smoke. I wish I got the coffee note, but I can’t sense it anywhere on my skin. The sandalwood is truly the dry down and the final traces of Vaporocindro on my skin.

If this is all sounding quite floral and girly, it’s really not. I think Vaporocindro would smell very compelling on a man. (And, remember, fragrance has no gender!) However, there is something fairy tale-esque about it. Maybe it’s the “cindro” in the name that makes me think of Cinderella. And the overall airy quality makes the composition feel quite dreamy. I love to wear Vaporocindro in the evenings, when I’m winding down from the day, and I have the free time to sit down with a book and use my imagination.

Thus far, Vaporocindro is the fragrance from January Scent Project where I can see myself springing for a full bottle. (Although I am on my full bottle low buy!) It’s the one I can see myself wearing often and truly being in the mood for it every single wearing.

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I ordered the JSP discovery kit directly from the brand’s website. Nothing in this post was gifted or sponsored.

The list of notes is via Fragrantica.

The photo of my sample and mini Vaporocindro retro artwork was taken by me.

Les Eaux de Chanel (Deauville and more)

June 12, 2019

Chanel initially launched their Les Eaux collection a year ago in May/June of 2018. I thought I’d finally get around to writing about it now that they’ve launched a new addition to the collection: Paris — Riviera. I like the element of travel that is built-in to this collection. Perfume should be transporting. So, the idea of taking the train from Paris to Deauville or the Riviera elevates that idea even further. It’s also perfect for summer, when everyone is dreaming about vacation.

Deauville is my favorite and it was my first Les Eaux purchase. With my love of No. 19 and Cristalle Eau Verte, I know that I can pretty much count on a Chanel green to work for me. Deauville does not let me down. Each time I spray it, it’s always an addictive and gorgeous bust of citrus: lemon, lime, and a touch of bitter petitgrain. The aromatic basil note is really the star for me. It sort of arcs across the entire composition. It’s present through the opening, the heart, and even the base for me.

It has to be said that Les Eaux are eau de toilettes and, for me anyway, they really function like eau de cologne concentrations. They last on my skin about the same length of time as an average Jo Malone. I apply Deauville *very* liberally and I’m usually an under-sprayer! You simply can’t hold back with these compositions though. I say all of this to explain how the basil note functionally lasts the entirety of wear time. It’s because wear time just isn’t that long! I do get some shimmering jasmine in the heart notes of Deauville and an interesting spiced patchouli dry down, but it’s really all about that aromatic opening.

I ended up purchasing a bottle of Venise last Fall. It’s also a lovely composition and has a bit more staying power than Deauville because of its tonka base. I have not yet added Biarritz to my collection. I’ve just seen that Chanel has released the original three Les Eaux in 50 ml bottles. I think I’ll eventually purchase Biarritz in that size because I simply don’t see myself using it often enough to justify the 125 ml bottle.

Overall, I enjoy Chanel’s efforts with Les Eaux, and I think there’s a place for this sort of light and more easy-going collection within Chanel’s fragrance universe. It makes sense, especially since Chanel chose to switch all of the Exclusifs to EdP concentrations across the board. And I have to wonder if that decision was motivated in part by Les Eaux already being in development?

What do you all think of Les Eaux? I’ll have to give Riviera a try when I can. Please leave a comment if you’ve been lucky enough to sniff it already! I’ll likely have to wait until my next visit to New York.

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The photo was taken by me. I purchased my bottle of Deauville at the Chanel boutique on 57th Street in Manhattan. Nothing in this post is gifted or sponsored.