reviews – Page 8 – This Side of Perfume

New Haarlem by Bond No. 9

October 15, 2015

Notes: lavender, bergamot, green leaves, coffee, cedar, amber, vanilla, tonka bean, and patchouli.

I initially wanted to try New Haarlem because of the coffee note. I love the smell of coffee in almost all of its forms: coffee beans, the beans being ground, a freshly poured cup. I love all of it. However, I’ve found that coffee notes don’t always show up on my skin. Or, if it does show up, it can be a slightly weird roasted kind of note. I know it’s supposed to be a roasted coffee bean, but it can take on a grilled meat kind of tinge, not good! So I had somewhat mixed expectations when first testing New Haarlem, but I was really happy to discover that this one works for me.

The initial opening, and I do mean the very initial opening, is a lightly herbaceous fizziness. I assume this is the lavender and bergamot making a fleeting appearance on my skin, as this herbaceous impression only lasts a couple of minutes to me before sweet gourmand flavors take over. The overwhelming note for the first hour of wear time is that of maple syrup drizzled over a stack of fluffy pancakes. There’s some melting butter present here too for good measure.

The coffee note comes on quite strong during the second hour of wear time, which makes me happy. The coffee is blended with cedar wood, really deepening the composition. At this point, New Haarlem is less sweet and more verging on a dark flavor. I love this middle stage of the fragrance and I actually wish it were even darker and more woody. The base notes of amber and vanilla begin to seep through a little too quickly for me, and bring the composition full circle to a sweet fragrance again. The dry down is less foodie and more like a soft cashmere blanket made of amber and tonka. I don’t sense much patchouli, and I wish that I got more because it might help round out the dry down by adding more depth.

Many gourmand scents remind me of dessert, with notes of chocolate or a creme brulee-like vanilla. New Haarlem is a little different in that it’s a gourmand that goes pure breakfast. This is no trendy brunch vibe, instead it’s a full breakfast meal. It reminds me of a diner in New York near The Met where my sister and I have eaten breakfast a few times. I remember ordering pancakes there, so I’m sure that’s why the memory is so striking to me.

New Haarlem is definitely not for everyone, nor is it for every mood. I like this fragrance, and even I’ve applied it a couple of times and then realized I’m not really in the mood for it. It can be an overwhelming scent, and I definitely wouldn’t recommend it for hot weather. But it’s so warm and inviting, which makes it a great cozy comfort scent for Fall. It’s particularly nice in the mornings, since it gets a little darker and a little cooler through October. If for some reason you can’t have your morning coffee, New Haarlem makes a really nice coffee-like treat.

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Bond No. 9 fragrances are available from Saks and Nordstrom. I got an initial sample of New Haarlem and then ended up buying a 50 ml bottle of it from my local Nordstrom.

The image and the info on notes are both from Bond No. 9

Mimosa & Cardamom by Jo Malone

October 8, 2015

Notes: cardamom, mimosa, and tonka bean.

Each year it seems like there’s an absolute flood of Fall fragrance releases and it can be overwhelming to keep track of them all. But Jo Malone has become a pillar of reliability in this flurry of releases, and I always know it’s officially Fall when I’ve sampled the new Jo Malone. This year’s release is Mimosa & Cardamom, which is a yellow floral. It’s a typical Jo Malone scent in that it’s very wearable, and I think it makes a good addition to their permanent line.

Mimosa & Cardamom opens as a fresh and slightly green floral. The cardamom is subtle to me, but I know it’s there adding to the green feel. It also keeps the mimosa balanced so that the opening isn’t an overly dense floral explosion. At this stage, I think Mimosa & Cardamom makes a great spring/summer fragrance, and I initially questioned releasing this for Fall.

However, this fresh and balanced opening lasts for about an hour on my skin before I detect the tonka bean slowly making its presence felt. This is where it starts to feel more like a Fall scent. The tonka brings out a creamy texture, adding some depth to the composition. I get the impression of rice pudding: milky, lightly spiced, and with some honey mixed in there as well.

Mimosa & Cardamom definitely takes on a gourmand tinge in the middle stages towards the dry down, so that’s something to be aware of if you’re not a gourmand fan. If you’re interested in this fragrance for the mimosa, don’t worry, the yellow floral aspect is definitely still there. The mimosa develops from a more fresh and green beginning to take on a more dense feel. It’s almost as though you can sense the yellow aspect of this floral blooming and becoming more rich.

The dry down is heavy on vanilla to me. There’s still some creamy tonka, but it’s a mainly a sweet vanilla, like vanilla tea with plenty of milk and sugar. As the fragrance fades from my skin, it’s much less of a floral and more of a cozy comfort scent. I get between 5-6 hours of wear time from Mimosa & Cardamom, which is pretty standard for Jo Malone on my skin.

After test-driving (test-sniffing?) this fragrance, I definitely understand its place as a Fall release. It would probably still be great all year around, but the sweet dry down may become too cloying in hot weather. Moreover, Mimosa & Cardamom gives off a nostalgic feel that suits Fall weather. I think it’s the yellow floral, not as bright as a white floral, nor is it as rich or sexy as a rose. There are gourmand elements to this fragrance, but it doesn’t make me literally crave dessert the way some gourmands do. Instead, it puts me in mind of sepia-toned photographs and leaves that have already turned colors. In that way, Mimosa & Cardamom is actually the perfect scent for this time of year.

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Mimosa & Cardamom is available in 30 ml and 100 ml bottles. It can be found at Jo Malone as well as at the usual department stores: Saks, Neiman Marcus, and Nordstrom. I was able to get a sample from my local Jo Malone counter.

Both the image and info on notes are directly from Jo Malone.

Cafe Rose by Tom Ford (Private Blend)

September 17, 2015

Notes: saffron, black pepper, May rose, Turkish rose, Bulgarian rose, coffee, incense, amber, sandalwood, and patchouli.

I don’t yet own a Tom Ford Private Blend scent. This is mostly due to the price, but also due to my own changing tastes. When the line first launched I was all about Tobacco Vanille, and I was certain it would be my first eventual Private Blend purchase. I now find Tobacco Vanille too overwhelming and cloying to be wearable on me. As I’ve explored more floral and rose fragrances, I’ve gravitated towards other Private Blend offerings like Fleur de Chine, Noir de Noir, and the subject of this write-up, Cafe Rose.

Cafe Rose is a floral chypre that’s meant to be a spicy, earthy rose. At its core, it’s a rose/patchouli fragrance, which is perhaps not the most unique genre these days, but Cafe Rose is so good, I don’t mind. Cafe Rose opens as a big aromatic floral that comes across as a blend of spicy/sweetness for me. There is just enough of the pepper to be noticeable, but not too much. A sweet powdery layer seems to blend with the rose, and I assume this is the saffron note. It reminds me a little bit of iris, only sweeter, but it will turn more earthy later.

This beautiful aromatic opening lasts for the first hour on my skin before the fragrance settles and brings more of the earthy aspects to the forefront of the composition. Cafe Rose has coffee in its name and, of course, coffee is listed as one of the notes. However, I get more of a chocolate feeling from the heart stage of the composition, which is a little disappointing for me since I love the smell of coffee. But I definitely won’t complain about chocolate! This chocolate note has a solidity about it and puts me in mind of a block of dark baking chocolate.

This bitter dark chocolate note blends with the patchouli, which gradually becomes a stronger note. If this is starting to sound quite bitter and heavy, not to worry, it doesn’t come across that way. The blend here is exceptionally smooth and velvety. This is partly due to a change in the rose from the opening. It’s less sweet going into the dry down, and has more of a rich and velvety texture. I’m not advanced enough to detect the difference between a May rose or a Turkish rose, but this change may be due to the different rose varietals.

The dry down here is just the right amount of earthy for me. There’s nothing funky or mushroom-y, but the patchouli is rich, amplified by sandalwood and incense. I really don’t sense any amber but that may just be me. The bitter chocolate note actually grounds the composition at this stage. And I sense a little touch of saffron flitting in and out in a teasing reminder of the opening. My only issue with the dry down is that it doesn’t fade away on my skin. Instead, it very suddenly drops off and disappears completely. I enjoy this this dry down so much, I wish it would linger a bit. But apparently when my skin is finished with this scent, it’s really finished.

Cafe Rose is such a delicious blend of a fragrance. It combines spice, sweetness, earthiness, and even a touch of the gourmand, while still retaining its floral rose heart. It feels sumptuous, but is also surprisingly wearable. If I’m going to purchase something from the Private Blend collection, I want it to be something I can actually wear and make good use of. I have a small decant of Cafe Rose and I’ll continue to make my way through that for right now, but I think it’s contender for a full bottle eventually. If you’re looking for something luxurious, but still pretty and wearable, Cafe Rose is definitely one to try.

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Tom Ford private blend fragrances are available from the usual department stores such as Saks, Nordstrom and Neiman Marcus. Luckyscent also carries the Private Blend collection now. I got my Cafe Rose sample from The Perfumed Court.

The image is from Tom Ford and the list of notes is from Fragrantica.

Jersey by Chanel (Les Exclusifs)

August 20, 2015

Notes: lavender, musk, vanilla, wild flowers, grass, rose, jasmine, and tonka bean.

I first tried Chanel’s Jersey a couple of months ago when I was visiting London. I happened to be there during this summer’s infamous heat wave when it was the hottest day in London on record. On this record-breaking hot day, a friend and I decided to take a shopping trip to Harrod’s because, if everyone is going to be sweating anyway, why not do it in style? Jersey is a lavender-centric fragrance, and it ended up being exactly the type of refreshing scent required by such a hot day. I liked it so much that I ended up ordering a sample once I was back at home.

Just as you might expect, Jersey opens with a strong wave of lavender. It’s difficult not to think of fresh laundry or clean linen simply because of the association with lavender, but Jersey doesn’t come off as being terribly soapy to me. Or maybe, it’s just the right amount of clean because this fragrance is definitely about balance.

The opening lavender note is a little bit bracing, but not overly sharp. It settles down into a clean and refreshing scent, but not overly soapy to my nose. It has a green tinge that becomes more pronounced leading into the middle stage of the fragrance. I suppose this comes from the grass note, and this helps maintain the sense of freshness.

Jersey may be lavender-centric, but it’s not linear. The musk doesn’t make much of an appearance on my skin, but the vanilla most definitely does. This is a very Chanel vanilla in that it’s soft and creamy, but still elegant. It never turns into a gourmand vanilla, yet still adds a richness of texture to the fragrance.

Then the tonka bean comes in and really emphasizes the creamy texture just in case you weren’t getting enough from the vanilla. When I first noticed this change in texture, I panicked that the scent would become too heavy and figured that I’d have to wash it off. But again, perfumer Jacques Polge is all about balance, and the creamy texture here is rendered with an incredibly soft touch that’s more like cashmere than a down comforter. It makes for a dry down that’s both lovely and very wearable.

If you’re not a fan of lavender in general, Jersey probably isn’t for you. However, if you enjoy lavender, Jersey is one to try. I love lavender fragrances, so this has been perfect for me, particularly for summer wear. It’s recently gotten me though some of those late summer days where almost any fragrance feels too heavy in the humidity. Even the dry down has been wearable, and I think the echo of the lavender helps keep the composition on the lighter side in general. Jersey may not be the most complex scent out there. And again, the clean laundry associations will haunt almost any lavender fragrance, but Jersey gives off the proper air of elegance you’d expect from Chanel. Plus, it just smells great, which is all I can ask for, especially in these last days of summer.

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Les Exclusifs de Chanel are available directly from Chanel and at Chanel boutiques. They are also available in person at some department stores such as Bergdorf’s and Harrods. Jersey samples and decants are available from The Posh Peasant and The Perfumed Court, which is where I got my sample.

The image is from Chanel while the info on notes is from Fragrantica.

Cleopatra by Tocca

August 6, 2015

Notes: bitter grapefruit, lush greens, cassis bud, white jasmine, peach, tuberose, patchouli, golden amber, and rich vanilla musk.

Early summer here this year wasn’t terribly summery. The month of June was overcast, rainy, and cool. I tried to combat this by wearing some refreshing citrus scents, including my summer stand-by, Dolce & Gabbana’s Light Blue. Now that we’re into late summer, the weather has turned extremely hot and humid. Oddly enough for this heat, I’ve been craving richer scents, something with a little more depth, especially in the base notes. With its base of amber and patchouli, Tocca’s Cleopatra has fit the bill nicely, even though I normally think of it as a cold weather fragrance.

Cleopatra isn’t a new release from Tocca. (Their newest scent is called “Isabel” and is a tea rose.) Nor is Cleopatra new to me but I’ve rediscovered it, sort of like when you find a pair of shoes buried at the back of your closet and realize they go perfectly with your outfit for the day. Cleopatra’s bright grapefruit opening definitely fits with a citrusy summer scent profile. There is also a hint of green, ensuring the composition stays on the fresh side.

The florals appear about half an hour into wear time, and I find that this is the lightest, most delicate stage of Cleopatra. The jasmine is a lovely, shimmering white. Tuberose can sometimes be a problem with my skin chemistry, but not in this case. I think the freshness of the fruit and green notes keep it in check, and this tuberose adds just a touch of creaminess without becoming heavy. The grapefruit is still the dominant fruit note to me, but I get hints of the peach note supporting the florals.

So far Cleopatra is a nice fruity/floral that isn’t too heavy. The dry down is where it can get a bit tricky for summertime wear though. Amber seeps in and starts bringing some warmth to the composition. And, once the patchouli opens up, we’re in beautifully rich dry down territory. It’s lovely, but it’s rather strong. I think my skin amplifies the patchouli and downplays the musk because, while I do smell some spiced vanilla, I really don’t detect musk. On me, it’s all patchouli all the way, and it lasts for ages.

Even though I’ve been craving Cleopatra lately, I’ve had to be careful when and where I’ve worn it in the heat. The sillage and staying power are both very strong on me, so I really can’t wear it if I’m going to be in the sun. One thing I like to do is spritz it on in the evening, knowing it will definitely last long enough through going out and coming back home. It’s enough to nicely perfume my bed sheets when I go to sleep, and I can even still smell it on my skin the next morning. So, staying power is rather good here.

Tocca has a wide enough range of scents by this point that there is at least one scent for everyone (and probably at least one scent you really don’t care for). I enjoy Cleopatra, Colette, and the more recent release, Simone. Even though Cleopatra has a more rich and textured feel to it, it’s still on the pleasant and refreshing side, which is possibly why I’ve been loving it for summer wear. A patchouli/musky dry down has the potential to go fairly dirty, but Tocca keeps it restrained while still giving it plenty of staying power. I think Cleopatra is a nice one to check out from Tocca if you’re not already familiar with it, especially as it will be even more wearable for fall/winter.

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Tocca fragrances are available directly from Tocca and from Sephora. I own a 20 ml travel sized bottle of Cleopatra that I bought at Sephora.

Both the image and info on notes are from Tocca.

Capri Forget Me Not by Carthusia

July 30, 2015

Notes: lemon, lime, mandarin orange, mint, fig, eucalyptus, violet, cyclamen, hyacinth, jasmine, davana, peach, and vanilla.

Carthusia is a fragrance house based in Capri and, if you’re lucky enough to be there, they have a few store locations situated around the main town of Capri. All of Carthusia’s scents are devoted to different aspects of the island. I myself have never been, so the Carthusia line offers a fun way to vicariously experience Capri life. In the case of Capri Forget Me Not, the scent is supposed to evoke the bygone era of the late 60s. It’s about remembering Capri, but the Carthusia marketing insists that it works both ways: “Don’t forget Capri, but don’t let Capri forget you either” hence the fragrance name.

The opening of Capri Forget Me Not is like a classic summer scent: a burst of refreshing citrus. This opening isn’t sharp or bracing though. It’s on the quiet side, as though the perfume needs some time to settle into the skin. Things start getting interesting a couple of minutes into wear time when a refreshing mint note comes through. Again, it’s not sharp. This definitely feels subdued for an opening, but it’s a nice change of pace from some modern releases that prefer to knock you off your feet with strong openings. The composition feels very nicely blended already, and it made me really curious about how the rest of the fragrance composition would unfold.

As you probably know by now, I’ve been making an effort to sample fig fragrances during this spring/summer (you’re probably getting tired of reading about them!) As it turns out, the middle stage of Capri Forget Me Not prominently features a jammy fruity fig note. I wasn’t expecting it, and maybe the fig isn’t so prominent on others (or maybe I’m just more attuned to the note than usual) but this has turned out to be another fig perfume for me to explore!

This the point where Capri Forget Me Not truly smells like summer in the Mediterranean. The fruity fig is rounded out with herbaceous greens, like eucalyptus. There are also fresh florals, such as the jasmine note, which also leans green here. I also detect something salty, like a sea breeze, but maybe that’s my imagination getting carried away with the beachy Mediterranean feel.

The dry down here is a nice, spiced vanilla. This is not an overly creamy or gourmand vanilla. There are still some traces of fruit, but the fig and peach notes blend into each other at this point for me, maybe my nose is too fatigued to pick them out separately. The green herbaceous notes have settled down, and the fragrance has a more rich, sultry feel. This is a really delicious dry down, and it brings wear time to right around six hours on me.

I’ve been really pleasantly surprised by Capri Forget Me Not. It’s an incredibly smooth blend. And, for a refreshing summer scent, it has a nice richness in the dry down, which means it will wear nicely into early autumn. Carthusia isn’t widely available in the US but, fortunately for those of us who can’t make it to Capri, Luckyscent does carry it. Capri Forget Me Not is a good fragrance to start with in sampling the Carthusia line, and it’s the perfect way to imagine Capri for those of us who might be summering in less picturesque places.

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In the US, Carthusia fragrances are available from Luckyscent, which is where I got my sample.

The image and the list of notes are both from Luckyscent.

L’Humaniste by Frapin

July 23, 2015

Notes: citrus, bergamot, cardamom, bay berry, black pepper, juniper, nutmeg, thyme, peony, gin, oakmoss, and tonka bean.

Frapin is a family-owned house that makes both perfume and cognac. These two products influence each other, and Frapin’s perfumes often take inspiration from the family’s land in the Cognac region and from the drink itself. L’Humaniste is a lighter offering, as the beverage inspiration in this case is gin. Think of a refreshing gin & tonic because this composition has a touch of effervescence while still maintaining a smooth feeling throughout wear time.

L’Humaniste opens with a zesty dose of citrus. I get a cool lime vibe, but I’ve read other reviews saying that the citrus here leans more toward lemon. I definitely get a green vibe though, and I’m sure it comes from the blend of bergamot and cardamom, which gives off a crackling green sensation, like lime-flavored sparkling water. This all blends extremely well with the juniper berry note. Juniper is used to flavor gin, although the essential oil from the berry is what’s used in perfumery, and it’s what adds the gin effect to this fragrance.

After the initial opening, L’Humaniste settles into a cool, aromatic, and slightly herbaceous scent, with undercurrents of spicy black pepper. This stage lasts for about an hour on my skin. The sillage at this stage is moderate, enough to project a light refreshing vibe, not enough to put anyone off. I will say right now that, as L’Humaniste develops, the sillage quiets down considerably (and remember, we’re only starting at moderate sillage levels). I know that’s a problem with this perfume for some people.

Sillage issue aside, L’Humaniste’s development is interesting to track. The aromatic, herbaceous elements of bergamot and thyme settle down, while a soft, creamy texture develops and comes to the forefront. This is from the peony note and the tonka base note starting to become more apparent. When I say this scent takes on a creamy texture, it’s not a heavy vanilla/gourmand type of texture. It’s more subtle, rather like soft suede. Indeed, the peony note here reminds me of Jo Malone’s Peony and Blush Suede.

Even with this change in texture, L’Humaniste maintains its refreshing feel throughout wear time. It never becomes a truly heavy fragrance, not even with the tonka and oakmoss dry down. This is probably due in part to the fact that the dry down here is skin scent territory, and overall wear time is short. By hour three, it’s a skin scent and by hour four, it’s completely gone on my skin. I have no problem with subtle skin scents, but the short-lived wear time is a disappointment for me.

Is there a time and a place for a fragrance that you know is only going to last a few hours on the skin? Absolutely, and eau de colognes are formulated to give off a refreshing scent for a few hours before fading. L’Humaniste isn’t a cologne concentration though. It’s an EdP, and I wish I could get more strength and longevity out of this one without having to reapply.

Still, L’Humaniste is definitely worth trying. It’s a gem of a summer scent. The opening gives an instant cooling effect, which I’ve really appreciated during some of the recent hot weather here. The development of the composition is interesting and pleasant. I enjoy the balance and contrast of the aromatic, refreshing feel with the slightly richer textures that come through during the later stages of wear time. And, you never know, you might be lucky enough to have the right skin chemistry to make this one last.

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In the US, Frapin fragrances are available from Barney’s New York and from Luckyscent, which is where I got my sample.

The image and info on notes are both from Luckyscent.

(After being away on vacation and dealing with allergies that made it impossible to smell or wear perfume for a little while, I’m back! And I should be back on a more consistent basis through the rest of the summer.)

Fig Tea by Parfums de Nicolai

June 25, 2015

Notes: fig, osmanthus, artemisia, mate, coriander, jasmine, guaiac wood, and amber.

I’m always happy to try a new (new to me, at least) scent from Patricia de Nicolai and Parfums de Nicolai. Fig Tea stood out to me, since I am still making an effort to try fig-centric fragrances to get a better feel for this theme in perfumery. Fig Tea is listed as an Eau Fraiche concentration, so I thought it would be a good refreshing scent to sample during this spring/summer season.

Fig Tea is indeed quite refreshing. It opens on a sweet fruity note. It’s a jammy fig, but doesn’t come across as too sticky-sweet. In fact, there’s a slight fizziness that keeps the opening lightweight. I detect apricot as well, most likely from the osmanthus. This opening is markedly different from the other fig scents I’ve sampled, which have focused on green fig leaves. The fruit opening here makes for a softer, more gentle impression.

Unlike a fig scent such as Diptyque’s Philosykos, Fig Tea never turns into a green fragrance, but it does develop to take on a noticeably herbaceous feel. After around twenty minutes of wear time, I notice something like mint coming through, only not as sharp. I’ve come to realize that it’s the mate or yerba mate note. I’ve never encountered this note before, but it’s very refreshing and pleasant. It’s green and herbal, but not sharp the way a mint note can sometimes be. This lovely herbaceous note serves to lift the overall composition so that the fruit and florals never turn too sweet or heavy.

As the fragrance develops, the fig note becomes much less pronounced, to the point where I probably wouldn’t identify this as a fig-centric fragrance if I were doing a blind testing of it. The tea aspect comes through much more strongly for me from the middle all the way into the dry down. This is not a smokey or cozy tea scent. It’s more like iced black tea and, because of the fruit notes, it makes me think of raspberry flavored iced tea.

I wasn’t expecting much staying power from this fragrance (considering the Eau Fraiche concentration) but I get just over 4 hours of wear time here, which is decent. The fragrance has a lightweight feel to it, so it can easily be reapplied without fear of being too heavy-handed. Even the dry down wears lightly for me. I really don’t sense any amber, but I do get hints of woodiness, like a dusted-over tea note, but in a nice way if that makes sense.

I really enjoy the herbaceous and refreshing tea notes here. I love cozy black tea perfumes for winter, but it’s nice to have a tea perfume that’s great for spring/summer wear. I have to admit that I’m personally a bit disappointed that the fig note isn’t more prominent here. Is this what I want from a fig fragrance? I’m not sure. But it’s good to sample a fig scent that isn’t just about green fig leaves. And the other notes here are so appealing, it’s hard to complain. Now, I have to see what fig scents I come across next.

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Fig Tea is available from the Parfums de Nicolai website. Full bottles and samples are also available from Luckyscent, which is where I got my sample.

*Updated image is courtesy of Parfums de NicolaÏ and the info on notes is from Fragrantica.

No. 19 by Chanel (Eau de Toilette)

June 18, 2015

Notes: galbanum, neroli, bergamot, jasmine, rose, lily of the valley, iris, vetiver, sandalwood, leather, and musk.

No. 19 was initially created by Henri Robert for Coco Chanel’s personal use. The name commemorates the date of her birthday, which is the 19th of August. No. 19 now exists in several different concentrations and versions: No. 19 poudré, the Eau de Toilette, the Eau de Parfum, and the Pure Parfum. Plus, there are still vintage bottles of it floating around. I ordered a small decant of the Eau de Toilette version. I’ve never had the opportunity to try a vintage sample of this one, and I’m sure it would smell quite different to my modern nose. But I have to say, I really enjoy this current EdT version.

I actually find No. 19 a bit difficult to describe. It’s a complex scent, and it doesn’t wear in a linear fashion. Notes seem to flit in and out at their will, circling back in just when you think they’ve disappeared for good. The opening is a blast of aldehydes followed by a very green galbanum note that sets the tone for the fragrance. I first tried No. 19 several years ago while exploring the Chanel counter, and I found this opening very off-putting at the time. It’s grown on me since then. But it’s true, this opening is extremely dry and green, and it can come off as too harsh if you’re not prepared for it.

Once the green opening settles in, I get a lush, spiced floral impression. It took me some time to parse out where this was coming from, but I think it’s the combination of a lush jasmine with a buttery iris, just before the powdery aspect of the iris comes into play. I also get a bit of leather threading its way through here, which may play up the spicy feeling on my skin. I really do not get much of the rose, which is fine as Chanel rose notes tend to be very subdued on me anyway. The powdery iris notes then become more pronounced, giving the overall composition a dry feeling similar to the opening again.

I’ve read people describing No. 19 as “cold” and “unemotional.” But I personally find it to be quite sensual. The recent Misia is far more cold to me and certainly more powdery. The way No. 19 wears may have something to do with it, as the sillage is moderate, which makes it a sophisticated choice for office wear. I myself have worn it out socially in the evenings as well, and enjoyed the little hints of green floral notes that waft up from time to time. I also like wearing it to bed, the powdery iris can be quite comforting. And it perfumes my sheets just enough so that it smells nice without being overwhelming.

The dry down is a sandalwood that almost reminds me of cedar because it feels so enriching, but it’s more on the dry side than an ultra-creamy sandalwood. I think there is still a touch of oakmoss in the current version, just a hint of an inky earthiness. Then the vetiver adds a final infusion of dry green notes to the composition. The last vestiges of the dry down fade just past the 5 hour mark, which is a decent amount of wear for an EdT concentration. If you’re planning to use this as your every day scent, you can definitely re-apply throughout the course of the day.

I’ve grown to love No. 19 over time. I have a small decant that I’m working my way through right now, and I’d love to someday own a bottle of it. I’ll work my way through some of the other versions, and hopefully be lucky enough to try some of the vintage juice, too. I think, even though the current formula is different from the original, No. 19 is still a perfume classic. It stands out from the “clean green” scents that have become so popular. It manages to smell very Chanel with the powedery iris note, and it exudes a certain je ne sais quoi French air.

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The No. 19 EdT is available directly from Chanel’s website. You can also find it at the usual department stores: Neiman’s, Nordstrom, and Saks. Samples are available from The Perfumed Court and The Posh Peasant, which is where I got my sample/decant.

The image is from Chanel and the info on notes is from Fragrantica.

Camellia Soliflor by Acqua di Stresa

June 11, 2015

Notes: grass, citrus, camellia, floral bouquet, spicy notes, woody notes.

Acqua di Stresa is a niche Italian perfume line. As you can probably guess from the name, it was founded in Stresa, which is a small town in Northern Italy. It’s even farther north than Milan, but it’s set right on the shores of Lake Maggiore, so it’s a place that provides plenty of inspiration. Winter Camellia is the inspiration for Camellia Soliflor. I was intrigued by this scent because I had been under the impression that camellias are a scentless flower and that camellia fragrances are mostly based on a fantasy floral bouquet.

I’m happy to learn something and be proven wrong here, since it turns out that there are certain families of camellias that do give off a scent. The specific Winter Camellia that served as the inspiration for Acqua di Stresa’s Camellia Soliflor is one of these scented camellia flowers. I wish I could tell you that I traveled to Italy to smell this particular type of camellia in its natural surroundings to compare it to this fragrance. (A girl can dream, right?) Since this is the real world, just the fragrance itself will have to do.

Camellia Soliflor has a bright and fresh opening consisting of sparkling citrus notes and black pepper. Fragrantica lists grass as an opening note here, but I have to confess that, apart from an overal refreshing feel, I can’t pick out any green notes in particular. The citrus is lemony for me and, thankfully, it’s more like sparkling lemonade, not lemon-scented cleaning products. The pepper is quite strong for me, which I like, and it lasts for around 15 minutes before settling down.

With the pepper settling into the skin, the fragrance moves into the floral notes. I clearly don’t have enough experience with camellia to claim that I detect it here. What I do detect is a powdery floral note, almost similar to iris. However, this isn’t a buttery or rich powder note, as Camellia Soliflor stays on the dry and fresh side throughout wear time. The floral bouquet here is subtle but gives off a sophisticated feel. If you’re looking for bigger florals, you may be disappointed with this. However, if you’re in the mood for a quiet floral, this would work well.

The dry down has a spicy feel, as the black pepper resurfaces. I think I detect a hint of cedar in the woody notes. A touch of the lemon/citrus top note lingers on my skin, and it all blends together for a lovely dry down that isn’t too heavy. My only complaint about this fragrance is that it can actually be a little bit too light. It’s an EdP concentration but wears like an EdT. You can definitely apply this one liberally, and I reapply throughout the day.

I stumbled across this line at Neiman Marcus, and I’m so glad that I did. I’ve really been enjoying Camellia Soliflor for summer wear. This fragrance has citrus top notes, but the spicy aspect and the unique camellia/floral bouquet set it apart from other typical summer scents. I look forward to trying more from Acqua di Stresa and I hope they get a wider release in the US. In the meantime, I’ll keep dreaming of traveling to Italy.

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In the US, Acqua di Stresa fragrances are available from Neiman Marcus, which is where I purchased my bottle. It looks like the line can also be found on Amazon. At this time I don’t see samples of this line available from any of my usual sample resources, but I will update if I come across it.

The image and info on notes are from Fragrantica.