reviews – Page 10 – This Side of Perfume

Metafora by Fueguia 1833

March 5, 2015

Notes: pink pepper, jasmine, and ginger.

Fueguia 1833 is a niche perfume house based in Argentina. The house was founded by Julian Bedel (the in-house perfumer) and Amalia Amoedo, and they are committed to using ingredients native to South America in their compositions. I stumbled across this brand while browsing around Luckyscent. Metafora stood out to me because of the sparse, yet appealing list of notes. And also simply because I like the name!

Metafora opens with a sparkling pink pepper and ginger accord. The pepper has a nice zing to it, and the ginger practically fizzes off the skin, like pouring ginger ale over ice. Pepper and ginger might sound like spicy notes, but the overall effect here is actually more refreshing than spicy. In fact, this is a fairly unique accord, in that it achieves a refreshing effect without including any of the citrus or green components we might expect. It’s not sharp or bracing either. I do get a lot of projection from it though, so I wouldn’t apply too much at once.

The jasmine note comes to the fore of the composition in gradual stages. At first, it appears as simply a soft white floral, a sort of cushion underneath the fizzy pepper and ginger. As it becomes a stronger presence, jasmine becomes the focus of the composition. This is not an opulent or an indolic jasmine. It’s the anchor of the composition so, by necessity, it’s appealing without being overbearing. The jasmine does have a slight prickly edge to it, but that’s probably due to the way it interacts with the pepper and the ginger.

Since there are so few notes in this composition, it would be ridiculous to talk about it in terms of the typical top note/middle note/base note structure. I wrote about the opening accord but, in fact, this refreshing opening lasts for a good hour on my skin. (With new releases these days, sometimes opening notes fade within five minutes.) This gives the jasmine enough time to become a stable presence. The ginger, in turn, becomes more smooth, and the pepper quiets down. For the rest of wear time, Metafora is a quiet, smooth white floral. It’s a warmer, almost comforting fragrance at this stage. Although, that pepper note still weaves in and out, teasingly recalling that remarkable opening.

Fueguia 1833 seems to run on the pricey side for full bottles, especially for the 100 ml size. I’m not sure about a full bottle of Metafora just yet, but it’s worth trying just to experience that delicious opening. Plus, I have a feeling the pepper/ginger accord is going to do wonders in combating the heat and humidity, so I’ll probably be looking for a sample refill in time for summer. In any case, I’m looking forward to trying more from this unique niche perfume line.

Samples and full bottles of Fueguia 1833 fragrances are available from Luckyscent, which is where I got my sample.

Image and info on notes are both from Fragrantica.

Bombay Bling by Neela Vermeire Creations

February 26, 2015

Notes: mango, lychee, blackcurrant, cardamom, cumin, cistus, rose accord, Turkish rose, jasmine sambac absolute, Madagascar ylang-ylang, tuberose, frangipani, gardenia, patchouli, tobacco, sandalwood, cedar, and vanilla.

Each of Neela Vermeire’s fragrances represent a period in India’s history, and Bombay Bling is here to represent modern India. As the Neela Vermeire website describes it, this fragrance is: “the very modern, colorful, eclectic, esoteric, ecstatic, liberal, happy side of buzzing India.” Bombay Bling is certainly buzzing, as you may be able to tell just from glancing at the varied list of notes. Like other Neela Vermeire fragrances, this one was also composed by the inimitable Bertrand Duchaufour.

Bombay Bling opens with a mouth-watering green mango note. Fresh and juicy, it fizzes up off the skin until you can almost taste it. If you can tear your senses away from the mango note, you’ll also notice a splash of tart blackcurrant and sweet lychee rounding out the fruity opening.

A cloud of white florals sails in after the bright opening. Once these billowing white florals have settled down, I detect a hint of spiciness, which adds some depth. Next, rose blooms to really flesh out the floral accord. I detect cloves here as well, even though it’s not listed in the notes. Or perhaps it’s just the effect of the composition feeling more solid and anchored now as opposed to fresh and sparkling.

Vanilla gradually makes its presence felt, and it’s a sweet crème brulée vanilla. I love cedar, but I don’t get much of it in the dry down here. I do sense a subtle smokey patchouli, but as it has an incense feel, it stays light and quiet on my skin. The dry down here is as wonderful and edible as the top notes in its own way, but it really is a skin scent on me at this point. I just wish the opening and middle notes had a bit more longevity because they’re so delicious.

Neela Vermeire Creations runs quite expensive as a brand, but I’d love to own a full bottle of Bombay Bling someday. Some individual notes such as mango and rose standout, yet the composition is blended incredibly smoothly as a whole. The result is an extravagant, but harmonious perfume that never comes across as obnoxious or over done. I’ve tried Neela Vermeire’s Ashoka and Trayee (which I wrote about here). Those fragrances strike me as more moody, more pensive, whereas Bombay Bling is pure happiness. It’s an instant mood booster. If you’re in need of a pick-me-up after a long day, a spritz of Bombay Bling will do the trick.

Samples and full bottles of Neela Vermeire Creations are available from Luckyscent, which is where I got my sample.

Image is from Luckyscent, while the list of notes is from the Neela Vermeire website.

Memoir Woman by Amouage

February 12, 2015

Notes: absynth, cardamom, mandarin orange, pink pepper, wormwood, clove, incense, pepper, jasmine, rose, white flowers, musk, French labdanum, oak moss, styrax, and leather.

I don’t know what it is about this time of year, but I always find myself craving Amouage’s Memoir Woman. February is the shortest month of the year, but it can often feel like the longest. Sometimes you need a little something extra to get you through this last bit of winter. Amouage is a brand known for opulence and, just from glancing at the cluster of notes listed above, it’s easy to tell that Memoir Woman is definitely something special.

For me, Memoir Woman starts out dark and becomes brighter as it develops. The opening is a zesty dose of aldehydes, pepper, and orange fruit. The leather note is also present for me right away. It conjures up the feel of a deeply luxurious black leather, like grabbing a black handbag on your way out the door for the night.

As the leather develops, smoke begins to waft and curl its way around the skin. Smoke and incense fragrances have been playing very quietly with my skin chemistry lately, but not Memoir Woman. This is a bold fragrance and the smokey note is no exception. Because of the clove note, I get the distinct impression of smoking black clove cigarettes. My friends and I used to smoke these in college (thinking we were so grown-up!) so there’s a bit of a nostalgia factor here for me.

I know the only fruit note listed is the mandarin orange but, after a couple hours of wear, I get the impression of red fruit. It’s both sweet and tart, and it has some texture to it, almost like raspberry jam. Perhaps it’s the combination of the pepper and the florals. Whatever it is, it’s quite appealing. And the composition never crosses the line into being too jammy or sticky sweet.

The leather note is at the heart of the dry down. It’s a little less dark here, but no less rich. I sense soft musk and rose, and there’s a lingering sweetness rounding things out. The perfume still casts some projection even in the late dry down stages, and it lasts for ages. The scent lingers on clothes, on my scarves, and on sheets. If I wear Memoir Woman to bed, my bedroom smells like this dry down stage in the morning.

I’ve tried its counterpart, Memoir Man, and I far prefer the Woman version. It just feels that much more rich and full-bodied to me, and it’s the one I find myself returning to again and again. Amouage runs on the extravagant side of the price scale. I personally have not splurged on a full bottle yet, but I hope to eventually. Amouage is the perfume house turn to if you’re in the mood for decadence, and Memoir Woman is my preferred choice for indulging.

samples and full bottles of Amouage fragrances are available from Luckyscent, which is where I keep replenishing my sample of this fragrance.

Image and info on notes are both from Luckyscent.

Eau Suave by Parfum d’Empire

February 5, 2015

Notes: pepper, coriander, saffron, Rose de Malmaison, apricot, raspberry, peach, vanilla, and musk.

Parfum d’Empire’s Eau Suave takes inspiration from the Empress Josephine and Chateau de Malmaison. I was lucky enough to visit Malmaison once several years ago, although I can’t recall what the chateau smelled like. However, in sampling Eau Suave, it’s easy enough to imagine this fragrance being composed for an Empress. This is a rich, rose-centered fragrance. There is no mistake, rose is the star of this show, but Eau Suave is a multi-faceted composition. The rose here is at turns spicy, fruity, and even verging on dirty. It’s enough to keep even the most busy of Empresses fascinated.

Eau Suave opens on a spicy note with pepper and coriander swirling around. It’s a lively opening to put it mildly. I detect some patchouli as well, adding some depth. Don’t be daunted by this description, it’s not all overwhelming spices. The rose note is there right away to provide a soft cushion for everything. I think there must be aldehydes at work here too, just to keep the composition from becoming too dense. I personally like this opening stage. It can be a bit bracing, almost like a typical masculine fragrance, but I think the rose is enough to balance the edge of the spicy notes while still conveying the overall soft character of this perfume.

The fruity notes start appearing next. Unfortunately for me, the peach note is quite strong, and I’m not a huge fan of peach. But even I can appreciate that it’s done very well here. The fruit in general balances out the spice by adding a freshness. This stage of Eau Suave reminds me a little bit of Liaisons Dangereuses from By Kilian in terms of the lushness of the fruit/rose combination. After a couple of hours, the fruit does an interesting thing on me: it goes a bit sour. It’s as though the fruit has just crossed the line into overly-ripe. This is where Eau Suave verges on the dirty for me.

The drydown is a cashmere-soft rose layered on vanilla and a hint of musk. I don’t get anything sweaty or animalic from the musk, and I think it’s here simply to anchor the composition. Because, interestingly enough, the pepper makes a reappearance. It’s as though the sour fruit ushers in the spice again, although the pepper is much softer this time around. The spice here has quite a sensual feel, especially following the slightly dirty fruit/rose accord.

Rose fragrances are everywhere at this time of year in the lead up to Valentine’s Day. I think Eau Suave would make a smart Valentine’s choice since, given Parfum d’Empire’s niche status, this isn’t a fragrance you’re likely to find too many other people wearing. It’s luxurious and rich, a little bit weird at times, but beautiful as a whole. I wish I personally enjoyed the fruit aspect more. As it is, I don’t think this one is full bottle material for me, but I’m happy to send for another sample and continue exploring the many facets of rose offered by Eau Suave.

samples and full bottles of Parfum d’Empire fragrances are available from Luckyscent, which is where I got my sample.

Image and info on notes are from Luckyscent.

Terre de Sarment by Frapin

December 11, 2014

Notes: grapefruit, neroli, cumin, cinnamon, nutmeg, orange blossom, incense, benzoin, tobacco, vanilla.

Terre de Sarment conjures up the idea of staying at a chateau. There’s the luxury of it all, of course. And there are the secret hidden spaces to be found therein, contrasted with the expanse of vineyards out in the open. ‘Sarment’ literally means vine shoot, so this is a composition built around the land and the vocation of wine-making.

This fragrance opens on a sharp citric note with the grapefruit and the neroli coming across strongly. I was slightly wary because neroli can sometimes give me a headache. However, any sharpness here is quickly balanced out with a creaminess from the orange blossom. This lends a soap-like feel to the opening, but, don’t worry, this isn’t an overly done laundry detergent type of clean smell. It’s pleasant and luxurious, like the type of soap you might come across at a hotel, or, indeed, a chateau.

The cinnamon and nutmeg seep in slowly, gradually warming the composition up. Maybe I’m being influenced by the holiday season, but this middle stage puts me in mind of a clove-studded orange pomander. I feel like I’ve accidentally stumbled onto a Christmas-appropriate perfume! At this stage, Terre de Sarment has a wonderfully familiar and cozy feel. It doesn’t exactly project opulence or grandeur, but rather the quiet luxury of being able to relax with a few close friends or family.

After a few hours of wear, Terre de Sarment begins to weave in and out on my skin. At certain points it’s a quiet skin scent, with that creamy orange blossom being anchored by vanilla. Other times, the composition turns quite aromatic with the seemingly odd combination of sweet fruit and tendrils of incense (I think there is a grape note here, although Luckyscent doesn’t list it). It all gives way to a deep woody, resinous feel that puts me in mind of the oak barrels used to age wine. It works because it’s all blended together so well. The transition from skin scent to aromatic feels natural rather than jarring. It also feels a little flirtatious in a fun way.

I wouldn’t say Terre de Sarment is truly dirty or raunchy despite the cumin (which I don’t detect at all?) and the deep woody notes. The composition is blended too smoothly for that. It’s lightly sexy, but also a little bit of a comfort scent. It has a slightly clean aspect from the soapy opening, but there’s also that deep resin. This is a really perfume-y perfume, in that there are so many notes to discover here, and they’re all meant to be appreciated or reacted to. This is no clean, cold anti-perfume scent. It’s meant to be enjoyed and luxuriated in, and I’m happy to have Terre de Sarment as my December perfume.

full bottles and samples of Terre de Sarment are available from Luckyscent, which is where I obtained my sample.

Image and info on notes are from Luckyscent.

Confetto by Profumum

November 20, 2014

Notes: almond, anise, musk, amber, vanilla.

I seem to be very one-note lately, and I promise that one of these days I’ll write about something that isn’t a gourmand scent. For now, Profumum’s Confetto is a warm, delicious confection, and a very worthy entry into my personal favorite scent category: vanilla-based gourmands.

Confetto opens with a sugary effect that already feels rich and creamy in texture. It’s a bit like the milk left over in your cereal bowl, where it has absorbed all the sugar from your cereal. Except this couldn’t be classified as just a leftover, it’s truly yummy, and an appropriate opening to the main course.

Then the almond note kicks in and adds some nice interest and depth. The effect of the almond is to slightly dry out that rich opening, adding just a hint of bitterness. The main effect is that the heart of this fragrance is nowhere near as sugary as the initial opening. The other point of interest here is the anise. I’m used to anise from Jo Malone’s Vanilla & Anise but, in the case of Confetto, I think the anise interacts with the almond instead of the vanilla. The anise adds a licorice-like twist to the somewhat dry almond notes. It’s a clever touch, as the anise adds a different aspect to the composition, without tipping everything into overly-candied, overly-sugared territory.

I’ve described Confetto in very sweet terms, and you’re probably wondering how this could not smell like candy. I think it’s all in the way the vanilla is handled. I would compare it to Profumum’s other vanilla: Vanitas. That fragrance is a cold, fragile vanilla. The composition of Vanitas is fascinating, and it has some sharp edges to it that give me the impression of a piece of hard candy. Whereas all the edges have been sanded down in Confetto. This is an incredibly smooth perfume, with the musk and vanilla base giving off warmth you can luxuriate in.

I first tried Confetto over the summer, and found that the vanilla was quite intense in the heat. It took on a boozy aspect, similar to the bourbon vanilla of Diptyque’s Eau Duelle. Now in cold weather, I find that the almond note is more the focus of the fragrance. Maybe it’s that the cold weather allows the vanilla to calm down enough to let the almond come to the forefront.

Profumum runs quite pricey, but I think Confetto is appealing and very wearable. It’s definitely full-bottle-worthy for me (and I’m grateful that Christmas is coming up). The sweet aspect gives this fragrance a youthfulness, but I don’t think it’s juvenile. I think it could read as quite grown-up, especially during the musky vanilla dry down stages. Confetto is my number one go-to scent at the moment. It’s comfortable to wear, it’s been keeping me cozy in some record-breaking cold weather, and best of all, it’s delicious.

Profumum is a niche Italian fragrance line. It is available from Luckyscent in the US, which is where I obtained my sample.

Image is from Fragrantica, while info on notes is from Profumum’s official site.

Dries Van Noten par Frederic Malle

November 13, 2014

Notes: sandalwood, gaiac wood, tonka bean, vanilla, saffron, jasmine, musk, bergamot, lemon, nutmeg, cloves, patchouli, woody notes, and Peru balsam.

I was excited when I first heard that Dries Van Noten was getting a fragrance, but I assumed it would be along the typical mass market lines of something like Viktor & Rolf’s Flowerbomb. But Monsieur Van Noten himself has apparently long been a fan of Frederic Malle’s Editions, and this collaboration between the two men (plus the nose of the fragrance, Bruno Jovanovic) is a somewhat unique product. It is part of Frederic Malle’s line, while also reflective of Dries Van Noten and his designs.

Dries Van Noten is a Belgian designer who is notable for his use of rich prints and textures. There is also his cerebral, yet somewhat relaxed approach to fashion. He doesn’t show haute couture, instead preferring to stick with ready-to-wear collections for men and women. I look forward to his collections because he always shows interesting and well thought-out work, even if I wouldn’t personally want to wear each and every garment.

Sandalwood is the focal point of Dries Van Noten the fragrance, automatically putting this composition in the warm and woody category. In other reviews, people have found this fragrance overly sweet and might classify it as a gourmand. For me, this is not the case. I’m the self-professed queen of gourmand scents, but Dries Van Noten reads quite dry on me. Despite the vanilla and tonka bean, this is not a creamy, dessert-like sandalwood scent for me. Obviously your mileage may vary!

Even though I don’t find this fragrance to be particularly sweet, I do still find that it gives a lot of warmth. It’s a rich fragrance in that the sandalwood and other woody notes (helped by patchouli) have a lot of depth and staying-power. But the dryness gives a somber effect, which I actually find appropriate since this composition is based around a Belgian winter. Don’t worry, the somber mood doesn’t mean that this is a dreary perfume, but I wouldn’t characterize it as a bright or lively affair.

The citrus notes ensure that there is a much-needed touch of lightness in this composition. The bergamot and lemon together give the impression of coming in out of the cold for a cup of earl grey tea with lemon. It’s nicely warming without being too heavy. Indeed, for a scent with a lot of depth to it, Dries Van Noten wears in a surprisingly light manner. This might be a good time to talk about the projection, which is low. This is a quiet scent that stays close to the skin. I find that makes it very wearable and approachable, but if you’re looking for a scent with more projection, cross this one off the list.

There is some development in this composition, as the dry down ushers in a musky effect, layered with hints of jasmine. But the development is subtle, and the dry sandalwood remains noticeable all throughout wear time. In the end, Dries Van Noten is a lovely, but slightly odd fragrance. It’s a little bit sobering, and content to stay mostly quiet on the skin. But in this quietness, it is perhaps a nice reflection of Monsieur Van Noten’s own cerebral approach to design. And of course there is an elegance in the perfume’s subtlety, and it’s probably one of the most wearable fragrances for cold weather. I don’t yet own a full bottle of any of the Frederic Malle line and, because of the wearability factor, I could see this being the one for me.

Dries Van Noten par Frederic Malle is available from Barney’s New York. Samples are available from The Perfumed Court, which is where I obtained mine.

Image and info on the notes are from Fragrantica.

Trayee by Neela Vermeire Creations

November 6, 2014

Notes: Blue ginger, elemi, cinnamon, ganja accord, blackcurrant absolute, basil, jasmine sambac, Egyptian jasmine, cardamom absolute, clove, saffron, Javanese and Haitian vetiver, incense, Mysore sandalwood oil, patchouli, myrrh, vanilla, cedar, amber notes, oud palao from Laos, oak moss.

After hearing nothing but raves about Neela Vermeire’s fragrances, I decided I had to finally sample her creations for myself. I picked out Trayee because of the jam-packed list of notes. I figured, if nothing else, at least it wouldn’t be boring. I first sampled Trayee during the summer months and, while I liked it, I found it too overwhelming to really process. I’m glad I’ve revisited it now in late autumn, because it feels like the perfect time of year to let this smokey/spicy creation really breathe and reveal its nuances.

Neela Vermeire, herself a fragrance lover, teamed up with the famed perfumer, Bertrand Duchaufour, to create four fragrances that form the foundation of her French-Indian perfume house. Each of these fragrances takes its inspiration and theme from a period of Indian history. Trayee reaches back through the centuries to the Vedic period, and many ingredients used in Vedic ceremonies are featured in the notes here.

Trayee is perhaps a little infamous for its “ganja accord.” If this evokes more of a picture of college kids smoking in their dorm room for you rather than a sophisticated fragrance, don’t worry. Trayee is smokey, but the ganja accord works as an herbal and sharp green, with basil and green cardamom standing out. In fact, the opening of Trayee is kind of shockingly green for me (at first I thought I must’ve tried the wrong sample). Then the spices warm up and cinnamon appears, both sweet and hot. Cloves are there too, adding depth and leading into the more rich and creamy heart.

Trayee develops into a lovely comforting vanilla, with ginger to add some liveliness and sparkle. Little tendrils of smoke fade in and out, serving as a reminder that this isn’t just a comfort scent. For some reason incense and smokey fragrances in general have been reading very subdued on me lately. It’s not necessarily a bad thing, but it may skew my perceptions. I get very subtle incense here leading into the dry down, just enough to make me think of sitting in a church pew for a moment, but the intensity may be different on others.

The dry down here is gorgeous and lasts for ages. The vanilla and sandalwood come together, serving as an anchor. Both amber and cedar enter into the mix now to add some shading. The cedar in particular adds richness, while also giving that slight hint of dirty forest. Remarkably, this isn’t a heavy base, and I actually don’t get much oud at all. The amber gives the composition a kind of glassy effect, as though looking through amber glass: it’s sturdy, but translucent.

Trayee is a fascinating perfume with a lot of development in the composition. It definitely has a calming, comforting effect to it. But at the same time, there’s always more here to discover and analyze. It’s a fragrance that keeps you on your toes. I’ve worn Trayee during the day, and I think you can pull it off, but I’d avoid it for work functions. It’s certainly rich and elegant enough for nighttime wear, but it doesn’t have to be exclusively for going out. There’s a contemplative aspect to this perfume, which makes it perfect for anytime you’re in the mood to be inspired.

Samples and full bottles of Trayee are available from Luckyscent, which is where I got my sample. Neela Vermeire runs quite pricey so I definitely suggest sampling this line!

Image is from Fragrantica, while list of notes is from Luckyscent.

Anima Dulcis by Arquiste

October 30, 2014

Notes: cocoa absolute, Mexican vanilla, cinnamon, chilli infusion.

Anima Dulcis stands out as somewhat unique for a gourmand fragrance. There’s an element of sweetness here, just as you’d expect from a scent based around cocoa and vanilla. But Anima Dulcis is also savory, and even a touch bitter. That’s quite a few scent profiles to pack into one composition, but luckily it’s done here with a careful touch (or a careful nose) as Anima Dulcis is never overpowering. I get average sillage from this, which I think is just about right, anything more would be too much.

The immediate opening here is quiet on me. I sense a general bouquet of spices, but no one note stands out. Anima Dulcis takes its time, but I’ve learned it’s worth the wait. After about half an hour, it heats up very nicely. The chilli gives off an aromatic kind of heat, giving you a nice little bit of projection. I also detect a touch of cumin, although it’s not listed as a specific note.

I have to admit the fragrance is a little bit sweaty at this point, but this is where the bitter dark chocolate effect comes in. I absolutely love dark chocolate, so I really enjoy this aspect of the fragrance even though it’s not the typical creamy hot cocoa vibe that gourmand scents usually go for. And a bonus is that the bitterness has a drying effect, keeping the composition from becoming too humid-sweaty and veering into body odor territory. As a result, Anima Dulcis doesn’t read as a hugely animalic fragrance to me. Rather, the dirtiness here comes off as earthy, like rich soil. I suppose it’s the effect of the spicy/savory influences.

The dry down here is typical of sweet gourmands, with rich vanilla coming to the fore of the composition. It’s warm, appealing, and very cozy. Just a tinge of sweat lingers, and it’s a little bit leather-infused (perhaps this is the animalic effect?). Unfortunately for such a packed fragrance, Anima Dulcis doesn’t last much beyond five hours on me. But it’s a delicious journey while it lasts.

Above all, I appreciate the complexity at work in this perfume. You could easily classify Anima Dulcis as part of the Oriental fragrance family, because of the spice and the vanilla base. But there is more going on here, and I admire Anima Dulcis for stretching the boundaries of what we might consider a typical gourmand, and especially for being different than a typical chocolate perfume. I also like the way it takes time to heat up upon contact with the skin, as though Anima Dulcis needs a little time to get to know you before revealing aspects of its personality. It all comes together to make the wearing of this perfume a fascinating, challenging, and intensely personal experience.

Anima Dulcis is available directly from Arquiste and from Aedes de Venustas. Samples are available from The Perfumed Court. I got my sample from Aedes.

Image is from Fragrantica while info on the notes is from Arquiste.

Jo Malone’s Wood Sage & Sea Salt

September 26, 2014

Notes: ambrette seed, sea salt, sage, seaweed, and grapefruit.

I’ve been excited to try this newest Jo Malone release ever since it was first announced back in the spring, although I remember thinking at the time that it seemed odd to release a salty, beachy scent at the end of summer. Now that I’ve actually sampled the fragrance, I see that autumn is the right time of year for this. It adds a touch of brightness to the crisp, cool mornings, yet is still refreshing enough for warm September afternoons.

For me, Wood Sage & Sea Salt opens with a splash of grapefruit and a spicy sensation that’s much more like black pepper than like salt. It’s refreshing and bracing, but not overwhelming. I wouldn’t describe this as a fruity scent though. The grapefruit fades rather quickly, and the peppery opening quiets down.

In its place, a briny scent that must be from the seaweed comes to the fore. This is where the saltiness begins to come through. There’s a marine aspect here mixed with a green flavor. The ambrette acts as a musk-like base, and through all of this, salt begin to appear as though in waves (I assume this process is helped by skin chemistry and natural everyday sweat too).

Wood Sage & Sea Salt is refreshing on the whole, and exactly like a sea breeze. I confess I don’t get much sage or anything woodsy here (I find the base more generally warm and musky). Still, this is a well-blended and nicely detailed composition. There’s a bit of an edge to keep this fragrance from personifying a purely sunny beach, with the bite from the salt echoing the tangy grapefruit opening. It puts me in mind of the beaches I’ve visited in Scotland where the wind is bitter and unrelenting, even in July. But, if you’re in the right mood for it, it’s absolutely invigorating, just like the best autumn weather.

Wood Sage & Sea Salt is reportedly perfumer Christine Nagel’s last fragrance for Jo Malone. Despite the lack of floral notes, this scent fits right in with the brand’s current profile, but we will see where Jo Malone goes from here.

Wood Sage & Sea Salt is available from Jo Malone, Nordstrom, and from Saks. The Perfumed Court carries Jo Malone samples, although I don’t currently see Wood Sage & Sea Salt on offer, perhaps they are sold out. I got my sample (and eventually a 30 ml bottle) from my local Jo Malone counter.

Both the image and info on perfume notes are from Fragrantica.