Caitlin

Philosykos by Diptyque

March 26, 2015

Notes: fig tree leaves, wood, and white cedar.

I recently came to the realization that I didn’t know much about fig scents. In my few years of perfume exploration, I had left this area of perfume sadly overlooked. Not anymore! And what better place to start in my fig education than with Diptyque’s venerable Philosykos. Created by Olivia Giacobetti, this fragrance was originally released as an Eau de Toilette in 1996, which makes it almost twenty years old. Philosykos has withstood the test of time, and Diptyque now offers it in both EdT and EdP formats (my sample is the EdP).

Philosykos opens with a startlingly realistic blast of green leaves. The fragrance makes it clear from the start that this experience is not only about the fruit, but about the fig tree and the fig grove as whole, and this opening serves to place the wearer right in the middle of a fig grove. The effect here is perhaps not quite as photo-realistic as the garden in Giacobetti’s En Passant, but it’s pretty close. The fig leaves feel tangible. It’s as though I could reach out and brush a branch of bright green leaves out of my face.

The fig fruit appears gradually. It starts out a little bit tart and becomes sweeter as the fragrance develops, which gives the sense of fruit ripening before our eyes (or nose). Just a hint of milkiness comes through, but it’s nothing heavy, nor does it give off a creamy texture like you might find in a vanilla-based scent. The greenness of the opening is still present to preserve a balance so that, even as the composition takes on a lush sweetness, it never becomes overbearing.

The woody base notes are here to add depth and to round out the full picture of a fig tree. I’m a fan of cedar, and it’s delicious here, as hints of the sharp green leaves from the opening circle back to mingle with the deep, rich wood of the base. And, again, this really serves to balance out the delicate sweetness of the just-ripened fig note. I find this dry down to be quite sensual. Even though it doesn’t include typically warm or sensual notes such as amber, this dry down is appealing in its own way.

Even though my sample is the EdP, my skin seems to drink up this fragrance. By the third hour, Philosykos is already a skin scent on me, and the woody dry down is in full effect. From reading comments and reviews, this seems to be a fluke of body chemistry. I need to sample the EdT to compare and see if, by some chance, it actually has more longevity for me. I would absolutely consider a full bottle of this if I could squeeze a little more wear time out of it.

As I’ve mentioned, Philosykos paints a realistic picture of a fig tree. If you’re in the mood for something more romantic, or a more impressionistic version of fig, you should look elsewhere. But if you’re in the mood to be transported to a seemingly tangible Greek fig grove, then Philosykos is the answer. You could hardly do better, both in terms of fig scents and in regard to stunning realism.

as a note: please let me know of any fig scent recommendations! (Premier Figuier is definitely on the list)

Samples and full bottles of Diptyque fragrances are available from Luckyscent, which is where I got my sample.

Image and info on notes are also from Luckyscent.

Birch & Black Pepper by Jo Malone

March 19, 2015

Notes: mandarin orange, cardamom, black pepper, birch, patchouli, Gurjan balsam, vanilla, and ink.

Jo Malone has released a spring collection for 2015 is called “Rock the Ages” with the five scents in the collection representing different eras of British history. Birch & Black Pepper is meant to represent modern Britain. As the Jo Malone site describes it, this fragrance is: “a scent of contrasts” and “individual, audacious, stylish.” For once, the marketing might actually be right, since Birch & Black Pepper really does come across as modern, especially with the intriguing ink accord. It’s definitely the most unique scent from the Rock the Ages collection.

Birch & Pepper opens like an aromatic spice scent, with cardamom fizzing off the skin and black pepper crackling in the background. I smell just a hint of orange, but this isn’t a fruity scent by any means. I believe it’s just here to ensure that the opening remains light and effervescent, which it does. There aren’t many Jo Malone fragrances I would describe as “heavy” and, indeed, the opening of Birch & Black Pepper has a sheer quality to it.

The central birch note appears within a few minutes of wear time and adds depth to the composition as it develops. The birch here is warm, and subtly smokey. To me, it takes on a resemblance to black leather as it develops, but this is not a buttery smooth leather. There is some texture here, almost like the pattern birch bark leaves as it peels away from the tree trunk.

It’s appropriate that this composition contains ink because its development reminds me of an ink stain, steadily growing deeper as ink continues to spill. The ink accord here is medicinal, metallic, challenging to wear, but so interesting. Wearing this, it was like I had been reading the newspaper and now had ink smudged on my fingertips.

I’ve worn Birch & Black Pepper out a few times now while trying to get to know it better. I have to admit, there was something jarring about wearing this one while casually shopping or running errands. You really have to hit on the right mood and right occasion for this fragrance. The smokey birch lends it an outdoorsy feel, and I think this could work well for a dinner eaten outside on a summery evening.

The SA at my Jo Malone counter said that Birch & Black Pepper has not been one of the better sellers from this collection, and I can see why. It’s not a pretty perfume to wear to a party and receive lots of compliments. Still, standing out is good, and I’m glad the company released this one even though it’s different. The ink makes me think Birch & Black Pepper will pair well with sitting outside this summer, lost in a good book, and I look forward to it.

The “Rock the Ages” collection is limited edition, and each scent is available in a 30 ml bottle. The collection is available from Jo Malone online, and at retailers like Saks and Nordstrom. I bought my bottle of Birch & Black Pepper from the Jo Malone counter at my local Nordstrom. In my experience, Jo Malone SAs have been happy to give out samples when asked. Samples of Jo Malone scents are also available online from The Perfumed Court.

Image and info on notes are both from Fragrantica.

Metafora by Fueguia 1833

March 5, 2015

Notes: pink pepper, jasmine, and ginger.

Fueguia 1833 is a niche perfume house based in Argentina. The house was founded by Julian Bedel (the in-house perfumer) and Amalia Amoedo, and they are committed to using ingredients native to South America in their compositions. I stumbled across this brand while browsing around Luckyscent. Metafora stood out to me because of the sparse, yet appealing list of notes. And also simply because I like the name!

Metafora opens with a sparkling pink pepper and ginger accord. The pepper has a nice zing to it, and the ginger practically fizzes off the skin, like pouring ginger ale over ice. Pepper and ginger might sound like spicy notes, but the overall effect here is actually more refreshing than spicy. In fact, this is a fairly unique accord, in that it achieves a refreshing effect without including any of the citrus or green components we might expect. It’s not sharp or bracing either. I do get a lot of projection from it though, so I wouldn’t apply too much at once.

The jasmine note comes to the fore of the composition in gradual stages. At first, it appears as simply a soft white floral, a sort of cushion underneath the fizzy pepper and ginger. As it becomes a stronger presence, jasmine becomes the focus of the composition. This is not an opulent or an indolic jasmine. It’s the anchor of the composition so, by necessity, it’s appealing without being overbearing. The jasmine does have a slight prickly edge to it, but that’s probably due to the way it interacts with the pepper and the ginger.

Since there are so few notes in this composition, it would be ridiculous to talk about it in terms of the typical top note/middle note/base note structure. I wrote about the opening accord but, in fact, this refreshing opening lasts for a good hour on my skin. (With new releases these days, sometimes opening notes fade within five minutes.) This gives the jasmine enough time to become a stable presence. The ginger, in turn, becomes more smooth, and the pepper quiets down. For the rest of wear time, Metafora is a quiet, smooth white floral. It’s a warmer, almost comforting fragrance at this stage. Although, that pepper note still weaves in and out, teasingly recalling that remarkable opening.

Fueguia 1833 seems to run on the pricey side for full bottles, especially for the 100 ml size. I’m not sure about a full bottle of Metafora just yet, but it’s worth trying just to experience that delicious opening. Plus, I have a feeling the pepper/ginger accord is going to do wonders in combating the heat and humidity, so I’ll probably be looking for a sample refill in time for summer. In any case, I’m looking forward to trying more from this unique niche perfume line.

Samples and full bottles of Fueguia 1833 fragrances are available from Luckyscent, which is where I got my sample.

Image and info on notes are both from Fragrantica.

Bombay Bling by Neela Vermeire Creations

February 26, 2015

Notes: mango, lychee, blackcurrant, cardamom, cumin, cistus, rose accord, Turkish rose, jasmine sambac absolute, Madagascar ylang-ylang, tuberose, frangipani, gardenia, patchouli, tobacco, sandalwood, cedar, and vanilla.

Each of Neela Vermeire’s fragrances represent a period in India’s history, and Bombay Bling is here to represent modern India. As the Neela Vermeire website describes it, this fragrance is: “the very modern, colorful, eclectic, esoteric, ecstatic, liberal, happy side of buzzing India.” Bombay Bling is certainly buzzing, as you may be able to tell just from glancing at the varied list of notes. Like other Neela Vermeire fragrances, this one was also composed by the inimitable Bertrand Duchaufour.

Bombay Bling opens with a mouth-watering green mango note. Fresh and juicy, it fizzes up off the skin until you can almost taste it. If you can tear your senses away from the mango note, you’ll also notice a splash of tart blackcurrant and sweet lychee rounding out the fruity opening.

A cloud of white florals sails in after the bright opening. Once these billowing white florals have settled down, I detect a hint of spiciness, which adds some depth. Next, rose blooms to really flesh out the floral accord. I detect cloves here as well, even though it’s not listed in the notes. Or perhaps it’s just the effect of the composition feeling more solid and anchored now as opposed to fresh and sparkling.

Vanilla gradually makes its presence felt, and it’s a sweet crème brulée vanilla. I love cedar, but I don’t get much of it in the dry down here. I do sense a subtle smokey patchouli, but as it has an incense feel, it stays light and quiet on my skin. The dry down here is as wonderful and edible as the top notes in its own way, but it really is a skin scent on me at this point. I just wish the opening and middle notes had a bit more longevity because they’re so delicious.

Neela Vermeire Creations runs quite expensive as a brand, but I’d love to own a full bottle of Bombay Bling someday. Some individual notes such as mango and rose standout, yet the composition is blended incredibly smoothly as a whole. The result is an extravagant, but harmonious perfume that never comes across as obnoxious or over done. I’ve tried Neela Vermeire’s Ashoka and Trayee (which I wrote about here). Those fragrances strike me as more moody, more pensive, whereas Bombay Bling is pure happiness. It’s an instant mood booster. If you’re in need of a pick-me-up after a long day, a spritz of Bombay Bling will do the trick.

Samples and full bottles of Neela Vermeire Creations are available from Luckyscent, which is where I got my sample.

Image is from Luckyscent, while the list of notes is from the Neela Vermeire website.

Memoir Woman by Amouage

February 12, 2015

Notes: absynth, cardamom, mandarin orange, pink pepper, wormwood, clove, incense, pepper, jasmine, rose, white flowers, musk, French labdanum, oak moss, styrax, and leather.

I don’t know what it is about this time of year, but I always find myself craving Amouage’s Memoir Woman. February is the shortest month of the year, but it can often feel like the longest. Sometimes you need a little something extra to get you through this last bit of winter. Amouage is a brand known for opulence and, just from glancing at the cluster of notes listed above, it’s easy to tell that Memoir Woman is definitely something special.

For me, Memoir Woman starts out dark and becomes brighter as it develops. The opening is a zesty dose of aldehydes, pepper, and orange fruit. The leather note is also present for me right away. It conjures up the feel of a deeply luxurious black leather, like grabbing a black handbag on your way out the door for the night.

As the leather develops, smoke begins to waft and curl its way around the skin. Smoke and incense fragrances have been playing very quietly with my skin chemistry lately, but not Memoir Woman. This is a bold fragrance and the smokey note is no exception. Because of the clove note, I get the distinct impression of smoking black clove cigarettes. My friends and I used to smoke these in college (thinking we were so grown-up!) so there’s a bit of a nostalgia factor here for me.

I know the only fruit note listed is the mandarin orange but, after a couple hours of wear, I get the impression of red fruit. It’s both sweet and tart, and it has some texture to it, almost like raspberry jam. Perhaps it’s the combination of the pepper and the florals. Whatever it is, it’s quite appealing. And the composition never crosses the line into being too jammy or sticky sweet.

The leather note is at the heart of the dry down. It’s a little less dark here, but no less rich. I sense soft musk and rose, and there’s a lingering sweetness rounding things out. The perfume still casts some projection even in the late dry down stages, and it lasts for ages. The scent lingers on clothes, on my scarves, and on sheets. If I wear Memoir Woman to bed, my bedroom smells like this dry down stage in the morning.

I’ve tried its counterpart, Memoir Man, and I far prefer the Woman version. It just feels that much more rich and full-bodied to me, and it’s the one I find myself returning to again and again. Amouage runs on the extravagant side of the price scale. I personally have not splurged on a full bottle yet, but I hope to eventually. Amouage is the perfume house turn to if you’re in the mood for decadence, and Memoir Woman is my preferred choice for indulging.

samples and full bottles of Amouage fragrances are available from Luckyscent, which is where I keep replenishing my sample of this fragrance.

Image and info on notes are both from Luckyscent.

Eau Suave by Parfum d’Empire

February 5, 2015

Notes: pepper, coriander, saffron, Rose de Malmaison, apricot, raspberry, peach, vanilla, and musk.

Parfum d’Empire’s Eau Suave takes inspiration from the Empress Josephine and Chateau de Malmaison. I was lucky enough to visit Malmaison once several years ago, although I can’t recall what the chateau smelled like. However, in sampling Eau Suave, it’s easy enough to imagine this fragrance being composed for an Empress. This is a rich, rose-centered fragrance. There is no mistake, rose is the star of this show, but Eau Suave is a multi-faceted composition. The rose here is at turns spicy, fruity, and even verging on dirty. It’s enough to keep even the most busy of Empresses fascinated.

Eau Suave opens on a spicy note with pepper and coriander swirling around. It’s a lively opening to put it mildly. I detect some patchouli as well, adding some depth. Don’t be daunted by this description, it’s not all overwhelming spices. The rose note is there right away to provide a soft cushion for everything. I think there must be aldehydes at work here too, just to keep the composition from becoming too dense. I personally like this opening stage. It can be a bit bracing, almost like a typical masculine fragrance, but I think the rose is enough to balance the edge of the spicy notes while still conveying the overall soft character of this perfume.

The fruity notes start appearing next. Unfortunately for me, the peach note is quite strong, and I’m not a huge fan of peach. But even I can appreciate that it’s done very well here. The fruit in general balances out the spice by adding a freshness. This stage of Eau Suave reminds me a little bit of Liaisons Dangereuses from By Kilian in terms of the lushness of the fruit/rose combination. After a couple of hours, the fruit does an interesting thing on me: it goes a bit sour. It’s as though the fruit has just crossed the line into overly-ripe. This is where Eau Suave verges on the dirty for me.

The drydown is a cashmere-soft rose layered on vanilla and a hint of musk. I don’t get anything sweaty or animalic from the musk, and I think it’s here simply to anchor the composition. Because, interestingly enough, the pepper makes a reappearance. It’s as though the sour fruit ushers in the spice again, although the pepper is much softer this time around. The spice here has quite a sensual feel, especially following the slightly dirty fruit/rose accord.

Rose fragrances are everywhere at this time of year in the lead up to Valentine’s Day. I think Eau Suave would make a smart Valentine’s choice since, given Parfum d’Empire’s niche status, this isn’t a fragrance you’re likely to find too many other people wearing. It’s luxurious and rich, a little bit weird at times, but beautiful as a whole. I wish I personally enjoyed the fruit aspect more. As it is, I don’t think this one is full bottle material for me, but I’m happy to send for another sample and continue exploring the many facets of rose offered by Eau Suave.

samples and full bottles of Parfum d’Empire fragrances are available from Luckyscent, which is where I got my sample.

Image and info on notes are from Luckyscent.

Mon Numéro 10 by L’Artisan Parfumeur

January 15, 2015

Notes: fennel, lime, aldehydes, pink pepper, cinnamon, cabrueva, cardamom, leather, incense, rose, heliotrope, musk, vanilla, benzoin, hyrax, and tonka bean.

The nose for L’Artisan’s exclusive Mon Numéro line is Bertrand Duchaufour. As is typical of Monsieur Duchaufour, Mon Numéro 10 is packed with different notes, and the list of notes copied above looks rather overwhelming. Even so, Mon Numéro 10 is not overwhelming as a scent. In fact, it’s quite simple. As many perfume reviewers have noted, Mon Numéro 10 bears a striking resemblance to Coca-Cola, cherry cola to be specific. What can I say, I like Cherry Coke, so it’s not a problem for me.

This is an incense-leather fragrance. As with all incense fragrances of late, it wears quietly on me. I wouldn’t say it’s quite skin scent territory. After initially applying it, the fragrance settles into my skin in a pleasant way, but with minimal projection. However, Mon Numéro 10 is spicy and warm, so I could see it projecting more strongly on other people.

Patchouli blooms on my skin fairly early on, along with a mix of cinnamon and I assume nutmeg, although I don’t see it listed in the notes. The aldehydes are to give some lift and ensure the fragrance doesn’t become too dense early on. There is also a soft rose note that peeks through, adding a floral aspect and some balance to the otherwise spicy composition.

I don’t wear a lot of leather fragrances, and I wonder if fans of more traditional leather fragrances dislike Mon Numéro 10. Because, there is no denying it, the drydown is leather and cherry cola. It’s as though all the spices swirl together to create a sweet syrup (in this case, Coke syrup). Despite the anchoring base of vanilla and tonka bean, there is something liquid about the composition at this stage, as though you’re pouring the fragrance onto the skin. The memory of the aldehydes lingers, adding an effervescent quality. This is the point at which you truly have cherry cola in perfume form. But, blended with the dark, cedar-infused leather, it makes for a nicely rich combination.

Bertrand Duchaufor initially created only one bottle of each fragrance in the Mon Numéro line, making it an outrageously exclusive collection. L’Artisan then opted to make Mon Numéro 10 part of the permanent line in 2014. There must be a reason that Powers That Be are fans, and I assume Mon Numéro 10 has some kind of mass appeal for it to be made permanent.

Understandably, some people don’t enjoy the soft drink association present here in Mon Numéro 10. But I have to say, I personally love this one – enough even to go for a full bottle! I found it festive enough to wear during the holidays, while the warmth and quiet smokey incense makes it perfect for the cold, dark days of January. This is a delicious warm and spicy perfume that resists the urge to pull sweet or gourmand until the very end, when it goes full-on leather laced with cherry cola. The combination of leather/cola is more appealing than you might initially think. It works well, and is even a little bit seductive.

I bought my bottle of Mon Numéro 10 at Barney’s New York. Samples are available from The Perfumed Court.

Image and info on notes is from Luckyscent.

Terre de Sarment by Frapin

December 11, 2014

Notes: grapefruit, neroli, cumin, cinnamon, nutmeg, orange blossom, incense, benzoin, tobacco, vanilla.

Terre de Sarment conjures up the idea of staying at a chateau. There’s the luxury of it all, of course. And there are the secret hidden spaces to be found therein, contrasted with the expanse of vineyards out in the open. ‘Sarment’ literally means vine shoot, so this is a composition built around the land and the vocation of wine-making.

This fragrance opens on a sharp citric note with the grapefruit and the neroli coming across strongly. I was slightly wary because neroli can sometimes give me a headache. However, any sharpness here is quickly balanced out with a creaminess from the orange blossom. This lends a soap-like feel to the opening, but, don’t worry, this isn’t an overly done laundry detergent type of clean smell. It’s pleasant and luxurious, like the type of soap you might come across at a hotel, or, indeed, a chateau.

The cinnamon and nutmeg seep in slowly, gradually warming the composition up. Maybe I’m being influenced by the holiday season, but this middle stage puts me in mind of a clove-studded orange pomander. I feel like I’ve accidentally stumbled onto a Christmas-appropriate perfume! At this stage, Terre de Sarment has a wonderfully familiar and cozy feel. It doesn’t exactly project opulence or grandeur, but rather the quiet luxury of being able to relax with a few close friends or family.

After a few hours of wear, Terre de Sarment begins to weave in and out on my skin. At certain points it’s a quiet skin scent, with that creamy orange blossom being anchored by vanilla. Other times, the composition turns quite aromatic with the seemingly odd combination of sweet fruit and tendrils of incense (I think there is a grape note here, although Luckyscent doesn’t list it). It all gives way to a deep woody, resinous feel that puts me in mind of the oak barrels used to age wine. It works because it’s all blended together so well. The transition from skin scent to aromatic feels natural rather than jarring. It also feels a little flirtatious in a fun way.

I wouldn’t say Terre de Sarment is truly dirty or raunchy despite the cumin (which I don’t detect at all?) and the deep woody notes. The composition is blended too smoothly for that. It’s lightly sexy, but also a little bit of a comfort scent. It has a slightly clean aspect from the soapy opening, but there’s also that deep resin. This is a really perfume-y perfume, in that there are so many notes to discover here, and they’re all meant to be appreciated or reacted to. This is no clean, cold anti-perfume scent. It’s meant to be enjoyed and luxuriated in, and I’m happy to have Terre de Sarment as my December perfume.

full bottles and samples of Terre de Sarment are available from Luckyscent, which is where I obtained my sample.

Image and info on notes are from Luckyscent.

Confetto by Profumum

November 20, 2014

Notes: almond, anise, musk, amber, vanilla.

I seem to be very one-note lately, and I promise that one of these days I’ll write about something that isn’t a gourmand scent. For now, Profumum’s Confetto is a warm, delicious confection, and a very worthy entry into my personal favorite scent category: vanilla-based gourmands.

Confetto opens with a sugary effect that already feels rich and creamy in texture. It’s a bit like the milk left over in your cereal bowl, where it has absorbed all the sugar from your cereal. Except this couldn’t be classified as just a leftover, it’s truly yummy, and an appropriate opening to the main course.

Then the almond note kicks in and adds some nice interest and depth. The effect of the almond is to slightly dry out that rich opening, adding just a hint of bitterness. The main effect is that the heart of this fragrance is nowhere near as sugary as the initial opening. The other point of interest here is the anise. I’m used to anise from Jo Malone’s Vanilla & Anise but, in the case of Confetto, I think the anise interacts with the almond instead of the vanilla. The anise adds a licorice-like twist to the somewhat dry almond notes. It’s a clever touch, as the anise adds a different aspect to the composition, without tipping everything into overly-candied, overly-sugared territory.

I’ve described Confetto in very sweet terms, and you’re probably wondering how this could not smell like candy. I think it’s all in the way the vanilla is handled. I would compare it to Profumum’s other vanilla: Vanitas. That fragrance is a cold, fragile vanilla. The composition of Vanitas is fascinating, and it has some sharp edges to it that give me the impression of a piece of hard candy. Whereas all the edges have been sanded down in Confetto. This is an incredibly smooth perfume, with the musk and vanilla base giving off warmth you can luxuriate in.

I first tried Confetto over the summer, and found that the vanilla was quite intense in the heat. It took on a boozy aspect, similar to the bourbon vanilla of Diptyque’s Eau Duelle. Now in cold weather, I find that the almond note is more the focus of the fragrance. Maybe it’s that the cold weather allows the vanilla to calm down enough to let the almond come to the forefront.

Profumum runs quite pricey, but I think Confetto is appealing and very wearable. It’s definitely full-bottle-worthy for me (and I’m grateful that Christmas is coming up). The sweet aspect gives this fragrance a youthfulness, but I don’t think it’s juvenile. I think it could read as quite grown-up, especially during the musky vanilla dry down stages. Confetto is my number one go-to scent at the moment. It’s comfortable to wear, it’s been keeping me cozy in some record-breaking cold weather, and best of all, it’s delicious.

Profumum is a niche Italian fragrance line. It is available from Luckyscent in the US, which is where I obtained my sample.

Image is from Fragrantica, while info on notes is from Profumum’s official site.

Dries Van Noten par Frederic Malle

November 13, 2014

Notes: sandalwood, gaiac wood, tonka bean, vanilla, saffron, jasmine, musk, bergamot, lemon, nutmeg, cloves, patchouli, woody notes, and Peru balsam.

I was excited when I first heard that Dries Van Noten was getting a fragrance, but I assumed it would be along the typical mass market lines of something like Viktor & Rolf’s Flowerbomb. But Monsieur Van Noten himself has apparently long been a fan of Frederic Malle’s Editions, and this collaboration between the two men (plus the nose of the fragrance, Bruno Jovanovic) is a somewhat unique product. It is part of Frederic Malle’s line, while also reflective of Dries Van Noten and his designs.

Dries Van Noten is a Belgian designer who is notable for his use of rich prints and textures. There is also his cerebral, yet somewhat relaxed approach to fashion. He doesn’t show haute couture, instead preferring to stick with ready-to-wear collections for men and women. I look forward to his collections because he always shows interesting and well thought-out work, even if I wouldn’t personally want to wear each and every garment.

Sandalwood is the focal point of Dries Van Noten the fragrance, automatically putting this composition in the warm and woody category. In other reviews, people have found this fragrance overly sweet and might classify it as a gourmand. For me, this is not the case. I’m the self-professed queen of gourmand scents, but Dries Van Noten reads quite dry on me. Despite the vanilla and tonka bean, this is not a creamy, dessert-like sandalwood scent for me. Obviously your mileage may vary!

Even though I don’t find this fragrance to be particularly sweet, I do still find that it gives a lot of warmth. It’s a rich fragrance in that the sandalwood and other woody notes (helped by patchouli) have a lot of depth and staying-power. But the dryness gives a somber effect, which I actually find appropriate since this composition is based around a Belgian winter. Don’t worry, the somber mood doesn’t mean that this is a dreary perfume, but I wouldn’t characterize it as a bright or lively affair.

The citrus notes ensure that there is a much-needed touch of lightness in this composition. The bergamot and lemon together give the impression of coming in out of the cold for a cup of earl grey tea with lemon. It’s nicely warming without being too heavy. Indeed, for a scent with a lot of depth to it, Dries Van Noten wears in a surprisingly light manner. This might be a good time to talk about the projection, which is low. This is a quiet scent that stays close to the skin. I find that makes it very wearable and approachable, but if you’re looking for a scent with more projection, cross this one off the list.

There is some development in this composition, as the dry down ushers in a musky effect, layered with hints of jasmine. But the development is subtle, and the dry sandalwood remains noticeable all throughout wear time. In the end, Dries Van Noten is a lovely, but slightly odd fragrance. It’s a little bit sobering, and content to stay mostly quiet on the skin. But in this quietness, it is perhaps a nice reflection of Monsieur Van Noten’s own cerebral approach to design. And of course there is an elegance in the perfume’s subtlety, and it’s probably one of the most wearable fragrances for cold weather. I don’t yet own a full bottle of any of the Frederic Malle line and, because of the wearability factor, I could see this being the one for me.

Dries Van Noten par Frederic Malle is available from Barney’s New York. Samples are available from The Perfumed Court, which is where I obtained mine.

Image and info on the notes are from Fragrantica.

This Side of Perfume

Author: Caitlin