reviews – Page 9 – This Side of Perfume

Premier Figuier by L’Artisan Parfumeur

June 4, 2015

Notes: fig leaves, almond milk, and sandalwood.

Premier Figuier is very aptly named, since it was the very first fig fragrance to become available on the market. It was created by Olivia Giacobetti, who also crafted that other famous fig fragrance, Philosykos. She certainly knows what she’s doing when it comes to fig notes because both Philosykos and Premier Figuier have stood the test of time. L’Artisan now refers to Premier Figuier as a “benchmark” fig scent, and they offer it in an EdT and an extrême format. I have yet to sample the extrême, so this write-up will just focus on the EdT.

Premier Figuier opens with bright green notes of fig leaf, quite similar to Philosykos. But I don’t want this write-up to become just a comparison to Philosykos and, luckily, Premier Figuier takes a different approach pretty quickly. A creamy coconut note appears a few minutes after the green opening, which adds a texture and a sweetness to balance out the stark leafy green notes.

I would have expected the almond milk note to add to the creamy texture introduced by the coconut. Instead, I find that the almond note has a slightly powdery texture. It’s not overly done, and it’s definitely not enough to make this a cosmetic-type scent. The almond adds a delicate softness to the central leafy green notes, and Premier Figuier takes on a resemblance to a cashmere cloud. The scent is extremely pretty at this stage, and it has moderate projection, so it’s not too delicate.

Unfortunately, the Premier Figuier EdT doesn’t have great longevity on my skin, which is why I definitely need to try the extrême. The scent heads into the woody dry down between the 3-4 hour mark, when I’m still in the mood to bask in the gorgeous cloud of soft green notes. But the sandalwood in the dry down is very nice. It adds just enough texture to anchor that creamy note that has stuck around, but it’s not too overpowering. I can detect a dry fruit note, as though the figs have been dried in the sun. It’s enough to balance out the sandalwood and keep this fragrance focused on the fig note.

Overall, I find Premier Figuier very pretty and a little bit dreamy. It feels more romantic to me than Philosykos, which pitches its green notes in a more sharp and realistic way. Premier Figuier has a lot of texture to it, and that helps round out what could be some rough edges. I enjoy both of these fig scents, but they reflect different moods. Premier Figuier could almost be a comfort scent with its lovely creamy and powdery notes. My next goal is to sample the Premier Figuier Extrême and see if that changes my opinion at all.

(I said I didn’t want to make this write-up a simple comparison between Premier Figuier and Philosykos, but I ended up comparing them anyway! I guess it’s just too tempting when the same person composes scents on the same theme.)

_______________________

Premier Figuier is available from L’Artisan’s website. L’Artisan fragrances are available at Barney’s New York, and they are starting to become available at Sephora. Samples and full bottles are also available from Luckyscent, which is where I got my sample.

The image is from Luckyscent, while the info on notes is from L’Artisan. For what it’s worth, Fragrantica has a different list of notes for this fragrance. But I decided to go with L’Artisan’s official take on the notes.

Ophelia by Heeley

May 14, 2015

Notes: green stems, water lily, jasmine, ylang-ylang, tuberose, white musk, grey amber, and oak moss.

Ophelia’s final appearance in Hamlet is marked by a floral motif, as she spends some of her last moments naming various flowers and their meanings. It’s a poignant scene, made all the more so once you know her fate. The language of flowers and their symbolism are the subject of much academic inquiry, but Ophelia and her flowers are not limited solely to academia. James Heeley offers his own take on Ophelia’s bouquet with a white floral fragrance named after her. Ophelia the fragrance is fresh and spring-like. And although it doesn’t contain any of the flowers specifically mentioned by Shakespeare, it’s a lovely tribute.

This fragrance is decidedly a white floral, but the opening here is green. This isn’t a sharp citrus green though. There is a slight aquatic vibe here, but without the weird synthetic feel calone notes can bring. Instead, the watery green notes give off a serene, yet refreshing feel. I sense water lily’s presence here because this opening really gives the picturesque impression of lily pads in a pond.

But neither the green notes nor the water lily are the focus of this fragrance. The opening notes are there to provide some balance, which is a good thing because the tuberose soon makes its presence known. As I’ve said before, tuberose doesn’t always work for me. With Ophelia, the tuberose is creamy and textured, but luckily doesn’t turn rubbery or unpleasant in any way. The watery green opening lingers and sends ripples through the composition from time to time, making sure that the textured tuberose never becomes overwhelming. Likewise, the tuberose provides the perfect counterbalance to what could otherwise be an insipid opening.

Jasmine and ylang-ylang gradually peek out and join the tuberose, making for a gorgeous floral heart. The ylang-ylang gives a sunny yellow impression, like a Renoir painting done en plein air. The blend here is so smooth that I can’t tell if the jasmine is fruity, or if it’s the ylang-ylang, or both. In any case, there’s a sweet, ripe fruitiness that never crosses the line into overly ripe. I do find the jasmine slightly indolic, but nothing over the top. Again, this fragrance is all about balance.

Lily of the valley isn’t listed in the notes, but I detect a sort of sheer, radiant jasmine/lily of the valley accord just before heading into the dry down. At this stage, Ophelia reminds me of Parfums de Nicolai’s Odalisque (which I recently wrote about here). Odalisque was more melancholy and a little heavier in composition. Whereas Ophelia wears with a lightness and is characterized by a delicate balance, which continues even into the dry down. It’s mainly a sweet white musk for me. I don’t sense much oak moss. I get more of that watery feel, which I suppose could be from a light dose of moss in the base, although I associate it more with the opening notes. And it’s kind of nice that way to think about the composition coming full circle.

Overall, Ophelia is characterized by an almost rigorous blending and balancing of the composition. However, this strict attention to structure doesn’t result in an austere scent but, rather, in an extremely pretty one. “Pretty” really is the right word to describe Ophelia. If you’re looking for bridal scents, this one is definitely a contender. But I personally think Ophelia is too good to wear only once, even if it is for a very special occasion. I first sampled this one about a year ago, and I’m so glad to have revisited it for this spring.

_____________________

Here is the full text of Ophelia’s final scene in Hamlet for anyone interested.

The Heeley fragrance line is available at Barney’s New York in the US. Full bottles and samples are also available from Luckyscent, which is where I got my sample.

The image and info on notes are from Heeley’s website.

Gentlewoman by Juliette Has a Gun

May 7, 2015

Notes: neroli essence, bitter orange petitgrain essence, Calabrian bergamot essence, almond essence, coumarin, orange blossom absolute, lavender essence, ambroxan, and musks.

Gentlewoman is perfumer Romano Ricci’s call to modernize the classic Eau de Cologne formula and tailor it specifically to women. “With Gentlewoman” Ricci says, “I wanted to give women a dash of dandy.” When I think of dandyism, I think of Beau Brummel slipping on a new pair of gloves. I think of elegance, and bit of showiness, too. It’s a bit of a social performance. Fragrance can also be something of a social performance. I think we all select certain perfumes to play up or subdue different aspects of our personalities. Perhaps that makes for a good match between fragrance and the dandy lifestyle.

Gentlewoman opens in typical cologne fashion with a burst of citrus. The citrus here isn’t lemony, it’s very orange with a hint of green. This opening isn’t necessarily sparkling and pretty. It’s quite bitter at times, verging on astringent. But then it turns refreshing and juicy at other moments. This is a three-dimensional opening that keeps developing as the fragrance settles into the skin rather than flattening and fading away into the heart.

Gentlewoman begins to take on a clean, soapy feel as the orange blossom comes to the fore, while lavender also begins weaving its way through the composition, flitting in and out. It reminds me of the fancy soaps my grandmother puts out in the guest bathroom. It’s the kind of soap that’s rendered in pastel colors and is usually cut into perfect shapes, looking almost too pretty to use. The bitter aspects of the opening have settled down by this point, and Gentlewoman now gives off a wholly refreshing feel.

What Gentlewoman really needs at this point is something to anchor the fragrance, and that’s where the almond and coumarin come in. The coumarin acts as a sort of pillow to cushion the more aromatic notes. And I notice a hint of nuttiness from the almond adding a little flair as Gentlewoman gradually dries down to the musky base. I have to be honest, the musk here is rendered nicely, but there’s something about it that’s a little bit gauzy or hazy for me. It could just be my skin chemistry, but I personally would prefer something with a little more texture. The good thing is that I suspect this dry down will play very well during hot summer weather.

Overall, Gentlewoman is an intriguing take on the Eau de Cologne formula. The most thoroughly modern thing about it (and my favorite thing) is the remarkable staying power. It lasts a good 8 hours on me before fading, which is quite a bit longer than the typical cologne concentration. Clearly Romano Ricci worked a bit of perfumer magic to bolster the wear time, and I’m grateful. As I said, I think Gentlewoman is going to be fantastic for summer weather in particular. And although Monsieur Ricci composed it with women in mind, it’s perfectly wearable for anyone. All in all, Gentlewoman is one cool and collected dandy.

________________________

*This write-up is is based on a sample kindly provided for Gentlewoman’s US release.

Full bottles and samples of Juliette Has a Gun fragrances are available from Luckyscent.

The image and info on notes are from the Gentlewoman press release.

La Religieuse by Serge Lutens

April 30, 2015

Notes: jasmine, civet, musk, and incense.

A new Serge Lutens fragrance is always a bit of a riddle to figure out. In this case, I first noticed the purple juice in the bottle, which gives a cool vibe to the fragrance. Then there’s the name itself: La Religieuse, which means the nun (or it could refer to the pastry of the same name, as the pastry dough resembles nuns in their habits). Monsieur Lutens himself has to say: “Deliver us from Good! Jasmine petals are as white as snow. Black is my religion.” Interesting and thought-provoking from Serge Lutens. However, for me, the fragrance itself doesn’t offer quite as much to think about.

La Religieuse opens on a fruity jasmine note. The fruit is lemony and sweet, giving the impression of a lemon bar dusted with powdered sugar. The scent doesn’t go full dessert though, at least not on my skin. This is no Jeux de Peaux, and it’s certainly not meant to be a grand gourmand like some previous Serge Lutens releases. No “religieuse” pastries here.

The fruity jasmine develops into a very pared-down jasmine. This jasmine is bright white and sparklingly clean. There is no trace of the indolic, nor even a hint of sharp green to be found with this jasmine. La Religieuse becomes a cold, soapy scent, and it remains this way for a few hours on my skin. The cold effect here comes off as icy rather than the pure snow Serge Lutens references. It doesn’t really bring nuns to mind either. At this stage, the fragrance reminds me of the way some public spaces (like hotel lobbies) are perfumed: something nicely noticeable but inoffensive.

I thought the civet would bring some of that “dark side” alluded to by Serge Lutens. Unfortunately, on my skin, the civet is an almost minimalist version of itself. It brings a touch of warmth to this otherwise icy cool fragrance. And I detect a hint of sweat that goes slightly sweet, which I assume is the musk making an appearance. Other than that, the dry down here is a quiet affair, laced with subtle incense. I know that incense is very subdued on my skin, and I’m fine with that. I just wish the animalic notes stood out more to really anchor the composition. This fragrance could use the balance and the depth those notes would bring.

In the end, I’m no closer to solving the riddle that is La Religieuse. In fact, I’m frustrated because it’s actually a pleasant fragrance. It’s an eminently wearable jasmine, and will probably work well for summer. But, when it comes to Serge Lutens, “pleasant and wearable” feels like a disappointment. Quite honestly, for the price, it’s reasonable to expect more. I feel like it could have been interesting to see how this cold version of jasmine interacted with more powerful animalic notes, but this fragrance just doesn’t work that way on my skin. Still, if you’re interested in a clean-smelling jasmine, I would highly recommend La Religieuse. And, as always, I look forward to finding out what Serge Lutens has in store for us next.

____________________

In the US, Serge Lutens fragrances are available from Barneys New York or from Luckyscent. I got my sample of La Religieuse from The Perfumed Court.

Image and info on the notes are both from Fragrantica.

Une Nuit Magnétique by The Different Company

April 23, 2015

Notes: ginger, bergamot, blueberry, Egyptian jasmine, Turkish rose, tuberose, plum, benzoin, patchouli, amber, musk, and woody notes.

Une Nuit Magnétique could be just one more in a long line of fruity-florals with a patchouli base but, as the brand name implies, this scent is a little different. The specific notes used here make the difference, specifically the blueberry/plum fruit accord. Une Nuit Magnétique was released in spring of 2014. It was composed by Christine Nagel, and it’s the last project she completed just before joining Jean-Claude Ellena at Hermès. I’m glad she had time to compose Une Nuit Magnétique because it’s a fun little treat of a fragrance.

I sense the blueberry note right away in Une Nuit Magnétique’s initial opening. It’s tart and fresh, and buoyed up by a touch of bergamot. I was worried that this opening might have a little too much going on with the ginger, bergamot, and the tart blueberry (plus any lurking aldehydes) but it’s more smooth than anything else. The blueberry develops to be less tart and more of a sweet, ripe fruit. I get the impression of purple-tinged juice even though this fragrance doesn’t actually have a purple hue. In fact, during this opening stage, Une Nuit Magnétique reminds me of a cocktail I once had composed of blueberry juice and champagne. It’s smooth, just a touch sparkling, and good enough to drink.

The florals gradually make themselves known and form the heart of this composition. I have to admit, tuberose doesn’t always agree with my skin chemistry. It comes off a bit waxy to me here, like a crayon. Oddly, it’s not unpleasant, and it’s certainly not the worst experience I’ve had with tuberose. The ginger is actually more apparent to me here at this stage than during the opening. I think that really helps round out the composition and prevents my nose from getting stuck on just tuberose. The jasmine comes off as quite warm and blends nicely with the ginger. The rose is subtle for me, and I suspect that’s due to the seamless blend of the composition.

The patchouli in the dry down here has to be one of the lightest and most subtle patchoulis I’ve encountered. The base is mainly characterized by a warm, sweet amber and the echo of ripe fruit. The plum gives off more of a dense fruity vibe, while still calling back to the tart blueberry of the opening. Une Nuit Magnétique wears lightly on the skin, sort of like a translucent veil, and it remains light even through the dry down. I’ve found this makes it ideal to wear out to eat since it doesn’t overwhelm the food or the surroundings, but is still noticeable.

The slightly tart opening paired with the sweet dry down lends Une Nuit Magnétique a flirtatious character. I’ve already mentioned cocktails once in this write-up, and I think this is a great scent for happy hour or going out for drinks in general. Christine Nagel pitches it perfectly: it’s sweet but not gourmand, breezy and light on the skin yet still noticeable. And this light nature ensures that it doesn’t become sticky-sweet or cloying. It’s a lovely fragrance overall, and that bright blueberry note is the stand-out.

_____________________

The Different Company is a niche perfume line from France. Full bottles and samples are available from Luckyscent, which is where I got my sample.

The image is from The Different Company, while info on notes is from Fragrantica.

Terracotta Le Parfum by Guerlain

April 16, 2015

Notes: bergamot, coconut, tiare flower, orange blossom, jasmine, ylang-ylang, musk, and vanilla.

Last spring I was slow on the uptake and missed the chance to snag a bottle of Terracotta Le Parfum. The release was such a wild success for Guerlain that it sold out in the US, and I was unable to track down a bottle. This year I made sure to order my bottle from Nordstrom as soon as it became available. But, does this coveted fragrance live up to the hype?

Terracotta Le Parfum opens with the lush white floral tiare flower, enhanced by a touch of fruitiness from coconut and bergamot to keep this opening light and fresh. It gives off the scent of sunscreen without the tacky, sticky feeling some sunscreen formulas have. I find the sunscreen effect here appealing, it’s pleasantly beachy without being too much.

As Terracotta Le Parfum develops, it becomes more lush as the white florals really bloom. Jasmine and ylang-ylang are buttery and rich, while the orange blossom gives a hint of soapiness that lends the whole thing a luxury spa vibe. It all feels very expensive and very French. The slightly spicy vanilla of the dry down gives the impression of warmth without being a heavier winter-time vanilla. It’s more like sand being warmed in the sun.

The nice thing is that, for a Guerlain release, Terracotta Le Parfum isn’t outrageously expensive. It’s $76 for a hefty 100 ml bottle that will definitely last all summer and then some. However, the price reflects the complexity of the fragrance. This is not a masterpiece of perfumery like Mitsouko or Jicky. It’s not on the level of thoughtful compositions like in L’Art et la Matière line. So, in that sense, it’s not worth the hype for a Guerlain release.

But I feel like it’s important to manage expectations with this one. My bottle of Terracotta Le Parfum was a blind buy, which is always risky. Luckily, I’m really happy with my bottle, and I knew not to expect the next Shalimar out of it. Terracotta Le Parfum is a lovely and effortlessly wearable summer perfume. Thierry Wasser accomplishes what he set out to do with this release, which was to translate the essence of the Terracotta beauty line into a fragrance. Guerlain advertises this as “the allure of the sun in a bottle” and that’s really true to what this fragrance is.

Terracotta Le Parfum is a limited edition release. It may sell out again this year, so my advice is to act quickly if you’re interested. Full bottles are available from Saks, Neiman Marcus, and Nordstrom. As stated above, I ordered mine from Nordstrom.

Info on notes and the image are both from Fragrantica.

Misia by Chanel (Les Exclusifs)

April 9, 2015

Notes: iris, Turkish rose, Grasse rose, violet, orris root, benzoin, and tonka bean.

Misia Sert was a close personal friend of Coco Chanel. Misia was also something of a cultural icon in Parisian society, hosting a salon in her home for artists and serving as a muse. Both Toulouse-Lautrec and Renoir painted her portrait. And now Misia plays the muse again, since she is the subject of Chanel’s latest release for the Les Exclusifs line. Misia the fragrance is Olivier Polge’s debut at Chanel, as he gradually takes over the role of in-house perfumer from his father, Jacques Polge.

All of this is quite a lot of history to sort through, but what does Misia actually smell like? As you might be able to guess from Chanel’s promo image, Misia is practically a celebration of powdery cosmetic notes. The opening notes of powdery iris give off a cold impression, like pressed powder in a cool metallic compact. The iris has an earthiness to it as well, slightly rooty and carroty, although this scent is decidedly not gourmand. It’s much more cool and dry than that. Misia recalls that daily ritual performed by so many women: applying makeup in private before going out to meet the demands of the day.

There are two different strands of rose in the notes here, but I find the rose fairly subtle. The violet is the dominant floral note of the heart for me, which is a funny choice since violet inevitably brings Guerlain cosmetics to mind, not Chanel. I have to think this was a purposeful, slightly cheeky move on the part of Olivier Polge, because Misia is no mere Météorites rip-off.

In fact, I find Misia quite unique and deceptively simple. Lipstick, powder, and cosmetic notes are a common enough theme in perfumery. Misia is interesting in that, though it recalls luxury cosmetic items, the fragrance also projects an air of chilly refinement that borders on austerity. We don’t typically associate austerity with luxury, but Misia unites the two concepts. The coldness of the composition also projects an air of privacy, which is another funny choice given that this perfume is named after a person. This is not a fragrance to evoke nostalgia for fun times spent with friends. Instead, it is a scent that projects self-containment and self-possession. The narrative Misia has to offer us is a complex one, and a little subversive in its contradictions.

The benzoin and tonka bean dry down adds a touch of warmth to the composition, and I do mean just a touch. Misia is simply not the kind of fragrance to come over all warm and sensual. Instead, the composition turns more rich in its own way, now recalling loose powder instead of pressed powder. It’s more earthy as the orris root anchors the base. And that carroty iris note becomes tangible again, bringing this complex composition full circle. Total wear time is between 6-7 hours on me.

Misia is a rare fragrance in that it works as both something to wear in private around the house, and as the finishing touch before going out. However, Misia is no chameleon. This fragrance exists exactly on its own terms, always projecting that puzzling but fascinating air of austere sophistication. And, ultimately, this air of self-possession is probably the best way Olivier Polge and Chanel could pay tribute to Misia Sert herself.

Full bottles of Chanel Les Exclusifs fragrances are available at Chanel boutiques and at Saks and Bergdorf’s in New York. Fortunately for those of us who don’t have easy access to a boutique, The Perfumed Court carries Les Exclusifs, which is where I got my sample of Misia.

Info on notes is from Fragrantica and the image is from Chanel.

Odalisque by Parfums de Nicolai

April 2, 2015

Notes: bergamot, tangerine, citruses, lily-of-the-valley, jasmine, orris root, oak moss, musk.

Let’s address this bit of business right away: Odalisque is a floral chypre fragrance that has been reformulated from its original version due to IFRA restrictions on oakmoss. My sample is quite recent, so I’ve sadly never had the opportunity to smell the original Odalisque. However, I can still sense an earthy, almost inky aspect that I would attribute to oakmoss. And this version of Odalisque has retained a retro character — a kind of rich powdery feel — that makes it stand out.

Odalisque opens with bergamot and other assorted citrus notes to lend a lightness to what will soon be a bouquet of blooming white flowers. The bergamot is quite aromatic and seems to play off of the moss, which means this opening can come off as a little harsh. I personally don’t find it overbearing since it only lasts for about ten minutes on me.

The jasmine takes over soon after the initial opening. As the jasmine develops it becomes extremely rich in texture, almost like soft butter. The floral heart is anchored by orris root, which adds a powdery touch to the composition. Odalisque quiets down after a couple of hours of wear time. Though, I would posit that this is another stage of the heart, not necessarily the dry down yet. This is the point at which I really get a sense of the lily-of-the-valley note. It lends a gentleness to the white floral/oakmoss accord, which can otherwise read a bit dark or melancholic.

As for the dry down itself, the musk mostly comes across as salty to me. I don’t find Odalisque overly animalic or dirty/sexy. I’d characterize Odalisque as more sensual than outright sexy. The orris root and oakmoss ensure that the composition is rich and earthy even as it dries down to a skin scent. It fades away around the six hour mark on me.

Let me reiterate, Odalisque has a melancholy undercurrent running throughout the composition. From the inky oakmoss, to the buttery jasmine, to the powdery orris, this is a fragrance alive with texture. All of these sensations take Odalisque from a pretty, dreamy fragrance to a haunting one. It’s a Romantic fragrance, capital R intended. Odalisque is Coleridge’s Christabel or Keats’ La Belle Dame sans Merci. Not because it’s a major femme fatale fragrance, but the element of darkness here has to be acknowledged. Moreover, I think the vintage character of the fragrance lends a serious-minded feel, ultimately making Odalisque both elegant and intelligent.

The official Parfums de Nicolai website can be a bit confusing to figure out but they do ship worldwide. Parfums de Nicolai fragrances are also available from Luckyscent, which is where I got my sample.

Both the image and info on notes* are from Fragrantica.

*as a note: Luckyscent lists lily-of-the-valley, jasmine, and iris root as the only notes in Odalisque. However, the notes listed over at Fragrantica reflect the pyramid found on the Parfums de Nicolai website. It seems more accurate to my nose as well, so that’s what I went with.

Philosykos by Diptyque

March 26, 2015

Notes: fig tree leaves, wood, and white cedar.

I recently came to the realization that I didn’t know much about fig scents. In my few years of perfume exploration, I had left this area of perfume sadly overlooked. Not anymore! And what better place to start in my fig education than with Diptyque’s venerable Philosykos. Created by Olivia Giacobetti, this fragrance was originally released as an Eau de Toilette in 1996, which makes it almost twenty years old. Philosykos has withstood the test of time, and Diptyque now offers it in both EdT and EdP formats (my sample is the EdP).

Philosykos opens with a startlingly realistic blast of green leaves. The fragrance makes it clear from the start that this experience is not only about the fruit, but about the fig tree and the fig grove as whole, and this opening serves to place the wearer right in the middle of a fig grove. The effect here is perhaps not quite as photo-realistic as the garden in Giacobetti’s En Passant, but it’s pretty close. The fig leaves feel tangible. It’s as though I could reach out and brush a branch of bright green leaves out of my face.

The fig fruit appears gradually. It starts out a little bit tart and becomes sweeter as the fragrance develops, which gives the sense of fruit ripening before our eyes (or nose). Just a hint of milkiness comes through, but it’s nothing heavy, nor does it give off a creamy texture like you might find in a vanilla-based scent. The greenness of the opening is still present to preserve a balance so that, even as the composition takes on a lush sweetness, it never becomes overbearing.

The woody base notes are here to add depth and to round out the full picture of a fig tree. I’m a fan of cedar, and it’s delicious here, as hints of the sharp green leaves from the opening circle back to mingle with the deep, rich wood of the base. And, again, this really serves to balance out the delicate sweetness of the just-ripened fig note. I find this dry down to be quite sensual. Even though it doesn’t include typically warm or sensual notes such as amber, this dry down is appealing in its own way.

Even though my sample is the EdP, my skin seems to drink up this fragrance. By the third hour, Philosykos is already a skin scent on me, and the woody dry down is in full effect. From reading comments and reviews, this seems to be a fluke of body chemistry. I need to sample the EdT to compare and see if, by some chance, it actually has more longevity for me. I would absolutely consider a full bottle of this if I could squeeze a little more wear time out of it.

As I’ve mentioned, Philosykos paints a realistic picture of a fig tree. If you’re in the mood for something more romantic, or a more impressionistic version of fig, you should look elsewhere. But if you’re in the mood to be transported to a seemingly tangible Greek fig grove, then Philosykos is the answer. You could hardly do better, both in terms of fig scents and in regard to stunning realism.

as a note: please let me know of any fig scent recommendations! (Premier Figuier is definitely on the list)

Samples and full bottles of Diptyque fragrances are available from Luckyscent, which is where I got my sample.

Image and info on notes are also from Luckyscent.

Birch & Black Pepper by Jo Malone

March 19, 2015

Notes: mandarin orange, cardamom, black pepper, birch, patchouli, Gurjan balsam, vanilla, and ink.

Jo Malone has released a spring collection for 2015 is called “Rock the Ages” with the five scents in the collection representing different eras of British history. Birch & Black Pepper is meant to represent modern Britain. As the Jo Malone site describes it, this fragrance is: “a scent of contrasts” and “individual, audacious, stylish.” For once, the marketing might actually be right, since Birch & Black Pepper really does come across as modern, especially with the intriguing ink accord. It’s definitely the most unique scent from the Rock the Ages collection.

Birch & Pepper opens like an aromatic spice scent, with cardamom fizzing off the skin and black pepper crackling in the background. I smell just a hint of orange, but this isn’t a fruity scent by any means. I believe it’s just here to ensure that the opening remains light and effervescent, which it does. There aren’t many Jo Malone fragrances I would describe as “heavy” and, indeed, the opening of Birch & Black Pepper has a sheer quality to it.

The central birch note appears within a few minutes of wear time and adds depth to the composition as it develops. The birch here is warm, and subtly smokey. To me, it takes on a resemblance to black leather as it develops, but this is not a buttery smooth leather. There is some texture here, almost like the pattern birch bark leaves as it peels away from the tree trunk.

It’s appropriate that this composition contains ink because its development reminds me of an ink stain, steadily growing deeper as ink continues to spill. The ink accord here is medicinal, metallic, challenging to wear, but so interesting. Wearing this, it was like I had been reading the newspaper and now had ink smudged on my fingertips.

I’ve worn Birch & Black Pepper out a few times now while trying to get to know it better. I have to admit, there was something jarring about wearing this one while casually shopping or running errands. You really have to hit on the right mood and right occasion for this fragrance. The smokey birch lends it an outdoorsy feel, and I think this could work well for a dinner eaten outside on a summery evening.

The SA at my Jo Malone counter said that Birch & Black Pepper has not been one of the better sellers from this collection, and I can see why. It’s not a pretty perfume to wear to a party and receive lots of compliments. Still, standing out is good, and I’m glad the company released this one even though it’s different. The ink makes me think Birch & Black Pepper will pair well with sitting outside this summer, lost in a good book, and I look forward to it.

The “Rock the Ages” collection is limited edition, and each scent is available in a 30 ml bottle. The collection is available from Jo Malone online, and at retailers like Saks and Nordstrom. I bought my bottle of Birch & Black Pepper from the Jo Malone counter at my local Nordstrom. In my experience, Jo Malone SAs have been happy to give out samples when asked. Samples of Jo Malone scents are also available online from The Perfumed Court.

Image and info on notes are both from Fragrantica.