Category: perfume

Parfums de Nicolai; L’Eau Chic

June 16, 2012

Notes: Bourbon geranium, peppermint, spearmint, lavender, sandalwood, Roman chamomile, iris, clove, pimiento, white musks

It is impossible to have a better pedigree than Patricia de Nicolai. The grand-daughter of Pierre Guerlain, was trained by Jean-Paul Guerlain, she was the first woman to be awarded ‘best international perfumer’ from the Society of French Perfumers in 1988. She is now the current president of the Osmothèque, the perfume museum at Versailles. Quite an impressive resume! She also owns her own small company, Parfums de Nicolai, where she has complete control to realize her own vision. And how lucky for us because her vision is quite striking.

The inspiration for L’Eau Chic is the geranium-scented soap Madame de Nicolai recalls from her childhood home. This is definitely a soapy/fresh fragrance and, at the same time, it’s so much more than that. L’Eau Chic manages to be refreshing without giving off cleaning product or air freshener vibes. Nor would I really refer to it as a ‘green’ fragrance, despite the freshness (and the green tint).

Geranium is at the center of this composition, yet I don’t think of this as floral. Lavender adds a cool herbal quality, dialing down the floral. The pimiento and clove open up the spicy, peppery facets of geranium, and the spice enlivens L’Eau Chic so that it feels almost effervescent. It positively jumps off the skin, radiating a piquant freshness. But the mint is the star note to me. It is present throughout wear-time, blending well with the lavender, and off-setting the spices so that L’Eau Chic never veers off-balance into something too spicy or overbearing.

This is a perfect composition, delicate but surprisingly tenacious; the fresh factor never wears off throughout wear time. I could see L’Eau Chic working all year round, but it’s especially perfect for keeping you refreshed on those sticky, humid summer days. I will never think of ‘soapy’ fragrances in the same way again after trying L’Eau Chic. This is a standout.

I couldn’t resist snagging a full bottle of this. Chic to death.

Parfums de Nicolai; L’Eau Chic: $45 for 30ml // $115 for 100 ml. Samples and full bottles available from Luckyscent.

{Image Source}

Love & Toast; Pomme Poivre

June 8, 2012

Notes: vanilla orchid, white musk, jasmine, ebony woods

I first came across Love & Toast while browsing for shampoo at Whole Foods. I couldn’t help noticing the brand’s adorable packaging, so cute that it even prompted a discussion about the brand with the cashier at check-out. She suggested I check out Love & Toast’s fragrances, and so I soon found myself hurrying back to Whole Foods not for groceries, but for perfume.

As you can guess by now, anything with ‘poivre’ in the name immediately catches my eye. As it turns out, I wouldn’t say Pomme Poivre is overly piquant, (certainly not comparable to L’Artisan’s Poivre Piquant!) but the musk and ebony add a subtle depth to the composition. There’s a quiet warmth and spiciness to be found here. The jasmine, even though clearly floral, actually does a decent job of mimicking the smell of an apple. There’s a texture here too, it smells tangible somehow. In this way, Pomme Poivre conjures the idea of spiced fruit without directly containing those notes.

The impressive thing is the staying power. Just a couple of test sprays have lasted me throughout some very long and humid days. And don’t get me wrong, despite the tangibility factor, this isn’t a heavy or weighty scent. It’s perfectly appropriate for summer. It’s a linear composition, there is little intrigue here. But it’s lovely, and I even picked up a full bottle for myself. I plan to wear it to work often this summer.

At an inexpensive price point, Love & Toast is worth checking out if you happen to see it in stores. I also use their shampoo, and I’m crazy about their Salt n Sea shower creme. So fresh and delicious!

Love & Toast; Pomme Poivre $28 for 3.4 oz. Available from Whole Foods or online.

{Image Source}

Parfumerie Generale; Papyrus de Ciane

June 1, 2012

Notes: bergamot, galbanum, neroli, broom, solar notes, lavender, mugwort, clove, incense, cistus labadanum, hedione, vetiver, Mousse de Saxe, Silvanone, white musk

My obsession with Parfumerie Generale continues with Pierre Guillaume’s 24th entry in this line, Papyrus de Ciane. And I even think I’ve found my perfect summer scent in this one! It reached 90 degrees plus humidity here last weekend, but this miracle-working fragrance made the heat slightly bearable.

Papyrus de Ciane opens with a harsh, severe blast of grassy green notes and cool lavender. This sharp greenness was very welcome in the unrelenting humidity–the cool severity was exactly what I wanted! Very quickly though, a floral note appears to soften the composition, I’m guessing this is the broom note (I’m unfamiliar with broom flowers). The fragrance remains lovely, green and floral until the drydown, when things get really interesting.

The clove and the musk come through for me, adding a welcome soft spiciness. The composition takes on a subtle powdery texture, which I found nice rather than ‘old-lady.’ I also sense some licorice in there, which seems to be the Mousse de Saxe. I have never sampled Caron’s Nuit de Noel, so this has been my first experience with this iconic base and, I have to say, I like it. From reading, I gather that Mousse de Saxe is a mossy leather with some licorice in there. It’s the perfect soft, elegant drydown for this unusual green scent.

The contrast between the sharp opening and the soft drydown is compelling, and it somehow doesn’t feel disjointed. Though there is some spice in there, the drydown isn’t heavily spicy. It still manages to project that same cooling effect as the top notes. But there’s a surprising sensuality and sexiness to it that I don’t often find in ‘green’ fragrances.

Reading other reviews of Papyrus de Ciane, it seems this is a love it or hate it fragrance with very little middle ground (some people get air freshener or cleaning product vibes from it). Definitely sample this one to see where you fall, but I obviously fell for it hard. I couldn’t help ordering a full bottle to keep me cool all summer.

Parfumerie Generale; Papyrus de Ciane: $95 for 50 ml. Full bottles and samples available from Luckyscent.

{Image Source}

Nez à Nez; l’Hêtre Révé

May 25, 2012

Notes: Star anise, mandarin, cinnamon, clove, sandalwood, vetiver, patchouli, plum, wisteria, cedarwood, gaiacwood, jacaranda, leather, musk, port

I’ve been in quite the mood for bold luxurious perfumes lately; first with Chergui and, now, I’ve been living in Nez à Nez’s gorgeous l’Hêtre Révé all week. Nez à Nez is a niche perfume line started by a French couple: Christa Patout and Stephane Humbert Lucas. Fortunately Luckyscent carries the full line for all to try out, and I’ve been greedily devouring my sample.

I liked l’Hêtre Révé immediately, as the opening is quite spicy with the cinnamon and clove coming on strongly. I was reminded of sitting in coffee houses as a college student, lighting up clove cigarettes, and discussing Colette and Simone de Beauvoir.

But don’t worry, this fragrance quickly transitions out of university student territory. A delicious plum note appears, and seems to ripen more and more as long as l’Hêtre Révé lasts on the skin. However, I wouldn’t describe this scent as predominantly fruity, as there are plenty of other elements to balance out the plum. l’Hêtre Révé develops into a smoky leather scent. I hate to admit this, but leather scents can be hit or miss for me. Luckily this one is really, really a hit. There is a slight edginess to this leather–giving off a hint of danger–but it manages to be warm and inviting at the same time.

l’Hêtre Révé reminds me of By Kilian’s Back to Black because of the ripe fruit note and the overall pure indulgence of the fragrance. But the smokiness of Back to Black is more delicate and herbal, while l’Hêtre Révé is some deeply spiced and smokey goodness. This spice isn’t hippie though. It’s elegant, Parisian, grown up. Wear your favorite lipstick with this perfume, and settle into a corner of a dimly lit bar with a champagne cocktail.

And just for fun: l’Hêtre Révé literally means ‘the dreamt Beech tree.’ But it also serves as a play on words, since it sounds like l’Etre Révé which means ‘the dreamt person.’ Interesting to think about!

Nez à Nez; l’Hêtre Révé: $165 for 100 ml. Samples and Full Bottles available from Luckyscent

{Image Source}

Serge Lutens; Chergui

May 18, 2012

Notes: honey, musk, incense, tobacco leaf, hay sugar, amber, iris, rose and sandalwood

Where I live in the US we’ve had a pleasant and warm month of May so far–it was actually warmer here than it was in Paris! Naturally I’ve been contemplating lighter, airier fragrances for spring/summer but, to my surprise, I found myself craving the intense warmth of Chergui. I kept trying to reason with myself, no that will be too heavy for this time of year but then I thought, why deny myself the pleasure of a truly delicious perfume?

I actually didn’t like Chergui the first time I tried it. Luckyscent kindly sent me a sample with another purchase I had made, and I’m ashamed to say that I dabbed some on my wrist, and then proceeded to fall asleep! When I woke up, the fragrance had intensified on my skin and I was completely overwhelmed with the sense of sweet hay. I thought no way. Chergui seemed too sweet and too heavy for me.

Luckily I had the sense to give it another shot when I wasn’t quite so sleepy. Chergui takes its name from the dry wind of Morocco, and this fragrance definitely gives off the warmth of the desert. The honey comes through quite strongly, making this one sweet on me. But, aside from my first sampling, it has never tipped over into sticky and overbearing territory. The herbal tobacco keeps the composition dry and, in this way Chergui conjures an arid desert, not a humid climate. I also detect quite a bit of leather blended with hay, which can’t help but recall a barnyard. So yes, there is a hint of dirtiness here. But, I have to say, I enjoy it! Moreover, the leather adds some depth and balance, ensuring this doesn’t become too dry.

Like many Serge Lutens fragrances, Chergui is difficult to classify. It has a sexiness to it but, is it right for a date? It’s undeniably elegant, but is it right for a party? It radiates warmth, so maybe it’s right for when you need a comfort scent? Chergui is all of these things wrapped up in one bottle, and that’s what makes it so extraordinary.

I’m still not sure what exactly about it prompted my craving. The only thing I’m certain of is that, when I finally gave in, put on Chergui, and inhaled that first sniff, a sense of complete satisfaction came over me. It wasn’t the perfume I expected to be wearing this time of year, but it was the one that I needed.

Serge Lutens; Chergui: $140 for 50 ml. Samples available from The Perfumed Court, full bottles available from Luckyscent.

{Image Source}

perfumed in Paris

May 13, 2012

Bonjour!

I have returned from Paris, which was as exciting, and vibrant, and lovely as ever. Being the beauty/perfume junkie that I am, one of the highlights was visiting the Guerlain flagship on the Champs-Elysées and just basking in the luxury of it all. A seriously gorgeous boutique. I did not return with any new full-bottles, but that doesn’t mean that I didn’t have perfume on the brain.

My time in Paris got me thinking about the way I wear perfume in my day-to-day life. Normally, I just do mundane things like go to the office and run errands. The office where I work is a fairly small space, so I try not to spray on too much perfume so as not to overwhelm my co-workers. I just do a few spritzes on my wrist.

But wearing perfume in Paris is a whole other ballgame. City life seems to demand more than a couple spritzes to the wrist. After all, in France, it’s expected that you would be wearing perfume, and a lot of it. And I have to say, it’s necessary. The metro is like a living beast that swallows up all smells, mixes them around, and then regurgitates the bad ones. Sometimes you can detect a glimmer of Shalimar through the stench of stale sweat, and that is a moment to be savored.

It became clear to me that my typical perfume routine wasn’t up to the task of withstanding Paris. So I started applying more perfume, and more often throughout the day. I sprayed my clothes and my scarves with perfume, and carried a sample bottle in my purse, just in case.

Now that I’m home, I kind of want to continue doing this. I know I have to be polite to my co-workers. Even though I might think they should become better acquainted with L’Artisan Parfumeur and Serge Lutens, I can’t force it on them. But I like the idea of spraying my scarves, I think I’ll keep that up. That way, whenever I bring a scarf to work with me, I’m also bringing my perfume with me in a way.

So, what about you guys: How do you wear your perfume? Do you adjust to your surroundings? Do you like to spray it on your clothes?

Byredo; Bal d’Afrique

April 29, 2012

Notes: bergamot, lemon, neroli, african marigold, bucchu, violet, jasmin petals, cyclamen, black amber, musk, vetiver, and moroccan cedarwood

I added Byredo’s Bal d’Afrique to my to try list immediately after reading this fantastic interview with the house founder and perfumer, Ben Gorham, on Into the Gloss. The way he discussed translating a memory into a scent had me hooked straight away. I noticed many people recommending Bal d’Afrique, so I made it my first Byredo sample.

And I don’t regret it! This opens with some sharp lemon and neroli. The citrus is bright, but not astringent. I don’t see it listed in the notes, but I sense some spice along the lines of cardamom. The floral bouquet is tangible: I can practically touch the jasmine petals. Yet the bouquet is understated; it’s there to support the bright citrus top-notes, but never taking over the composition.

The odd thing about Bal d’Afrique is its edible quality. It makes me think of lemon squares topped with powdered sugar, or even rice pudding with lemon peel. The woody cedar base adds a salty, nutty flavor.  It’s funny, I’m listing all this food and, yet, this is not a gourmand fragrance. It’s not overly sweet, it’s not too citrusy, nor is it obviously salty. Bal d’Afrique is a beautiful blend, perfectly and effortlessly balanced.  The fact that there happens to be an edible quality around the edges here just adds interest.

The only drawback is that, on my skin anyway, it’s a bit lightweight. I have to spray liberally to get it to stick, and consequently I blew through my sample pretty quickly. I would have liked to spend more time with this. I’m not quite ready to shell out for a full bottle, but I’m picking up a second sample. For me, I think Bal d’Afrique was a good introduction to Byredo’s line, as there’s some intrigue here but it’s still extremely wearable. I’m looking forward to trying more from this line.

Byredo; Bal d’Afrique $220 for 100 ml // $145 for 50 ml. Available from Barney’s and Byredo.com. I ordered my sample from The Perfumed Court.

{Image Source}

Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle; Noir Epices

April 22, 2012

Notes: orange, rose, geranium, nutmeg, cinnamon, clove, sandalwood, patchouli, pepper

Given my penchant for spicy fragrances, I couldn’t avoid sampling one with the name Noir Epices. But Michel Roudnitska’s composition for Frederic Malle is a tricky one for me personally to parse. While it’s true that I do love spice, Noir Epices is not a boldly spicy Serge Lutens-style creation. Rather, Noir Epices is subtle, dry, and takes its own time to reveal its layers. The really tricky aspect of Noir Epices for me is the rose. Quite frankly, rose usually smells strange on my skin. I enjoy when other people wear rose-centered fragrances but, for some reason, it just doesn’t speak to me.  However, the soft dryness of Noir Epices really pays off, and the rose and geranium notes work for me in this case. Perhaps the orange in the opening helps, adding a spritz of zest to the floral accord.

As I wear this, the rose dies down and gives me the impression of dried crushed rose petals, rather than a living blooming flower. This is where the spice really starts to come into play. I detect clove and some light playful pepper, but I don’t get a sense of the cinnamon or nutmeg. There’s nothing to tip Noir Epices into gourmand territory, and no base of vanilla. In fact, there’s nothing remotely sweet about this fragrance, which is fairly atypical for spicy scents.

I almost hesitate to say this, but I can’t think to describe it any other way: Noir Epices smells soapy to me. I mean that in a good way. This would be the best possible soap. It’s odd, but there’s something about the dry florals and subtle spice here that reads as ‘clean’ to me. This is an intimate scent to be sure, but it’s not dirty or skanky. Maybe I get the soapy sensation simply because the overall effect of Noir Epices is pleasant, without ever becoming overwhelming or overbearing.

Noir Epices is lovely, and it has certainly challenged me. And yet, I don’t feel compelled to get a full bottle of this one. My sample isn’t quite empty, so I’m going to save it and check back in with it in a couple of months. Let’s be honest, this is a Frederic Malle, there is nothing to criticize here. I suppose I’m still uncertain if Noir Epices is really for me.

Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle; Noir Epices: $175 for 50 ml // $255 for 100 ml. Full bottles available from Barney’s. I got my sample from The Perfumed Court.

{Image Source}

Etat Libre d’Orange; Fils de Dieu

April 17, 2012

Notes: Ginger, coriander leaves, lime, shiso, bergamot, Jungle Essence coconut, rice note, Jungle Essence cardamom, jasmine, cinnamon, French May rose, tonka bean, vetiver, musk, amber, leather, castoreum.

Fils de Dieu du Riz et des Agrumes or Son of God of Rice and Citrus is one of Etat Libre d’Orange’s newest fragrances. As you can see, the list of notes reads almost like a recipe, and it blooms into a savory composition on the skin. It opens with a bright spike of lime (there’s that god of citrus!). I also detect the ginger and coriander, but these notes come off as more herbal than truly spicy. The opening is pleasantly aromatic and hesperidic for me.

But this fragrance is named for the god of rice and citrus. The rice accord shines through in a big way, but it takes some time to reveal itself on my skin. I get hints of something milky from the beginning but then, about 30 minutes into wear time, Fils de Dieu just blossoms into a deliciously creamy blend. The rice note is distinctive; it’s almost vanilla, it’s almost milk, but not quite. It seems to have its own texture too. It’s as though a bowl rice pudding is teasing me, it’s that tangible when I sniff my wrist.

The rice note is so interesting and I’d love to experience more of it in the world of scent. I came across this helpful Allure article all about rice in fragrance and including some recommendations. I’m eager to sample L’Artisan Parfumeur’s Bois Farine if it has some similarities to Fils de Dieu.

Fils de Dieu is one of the most distinctive fragrances I’ve sampled recently. Certainly not everyone wants to walk around smelling like rice pudding. In fact, I’m not even sure that I want to. But sampling this one is an experience worth having. The blending of this fragrance is effortless, as the aromatic top notes keep things bright and sparkly while the rice note smooths the composition out. I think this will be appropriate to wear in the summer months since the kicky lime will keep the creamy rice accord from becoming too overbearing.

And I will leave you with a link to The Candy Perfume Boy’s fantastic write-up of Fils de Dieu. I couldn’t hope to out-do his review, but I wanted to share my own experiences with this thought-provoking fragrance.

Etat Libre d’Orange; Fils de Dieu: $80 for 50 ml. Available from Luckyscent.

{Image Source}

By Kilian; Back to Black

April 11, 2012

Notes: Bergamot, raspberry, blue chamomile, cardamom, coriander, saffron, cedarwood, vanilla, almond, vetiver, cistus labdanum, patchouli, oakmoss.

I’ve said in the past that I try to avoid perfumes with fruit notes but, as always, the best fragrances manage to challenge your preconceived preferences. Back to Black taught me that sometimes I really do enjoy fruity fragrances. The fruit in this case is a sumptuous fermented raspberry. It’s not sticky-sweet, just lovely and edible.

Back to Black is a subtle tobacco fragrance. This isn’t the heady blast of something like of Tom Ford’s Tobacco Vanille. The tobacco here is herbal and delicate. It interlaces with the raspberry note like hazy curls of smoke.

The drydown has a boozy feel that gives the impression of having an after-dinner drink at a swanky cigar bar. Almond and vanilla appear, taking things into full-on gourmand territory. Back to Black isn’t the style of sweet/fruity perfume you’d find on the shelf at any Sephora. This is a sweet scent, but the underlying herbal smokiness keeps it in balance. It feels luxurious and rich, but there are still nuances to be found here.

This is already my second write-up of a By Kilian fragrance, can you tell I’ve fallen hard for this brand? I’m saving up for a full bottle of Back to Black. It’s just about as smooth and sophisticated as you can get. It lives up to its aphrodisiac subtitle, and that’s absolutely full bottle-worthy for me!

By Kilian; Back to Black: $225 for 50ml. Samples available from Luckyscent and The Perfumed Court.

{Image Source}