perfume – Page 24 – This Side of Perfume

Summer Holiday; Keiko Mecheri’s Taormine

June 19, 2014

Notes: Sicilian petit grain, Calabrian bergamot, Italian citron, bitter almond, aromatic accord, subtle floral heart, leather accord.

Evocative of a Sicilian getaway, Taormine opens with a bright inviting warmth. I’ve never been to Sicily myself, so I’ll have to rely on the perfume and my own imagination to paint this picture. The hesperidic opening is lightly aromatic and just a touch herbaceous. It sets a sultry mood, like a salty sea breeze blowing onto the patio at cocktail hour. However, Taormine doesn’t open up into a big salty, beachy scent. I think that’s a good thing, because what it does instead is a little bit more interesting.

For me, the almond note is the star of this composition. It starts sneaking in about fifteen minutes after application and lingers for the rest of wear time. The almond is interesting because, while it adds a touch of sweetness and some depth to the aromatic citrus notes, it’s not enough to turn this into a full-blown gourmand scent. Instead, the almond keeps this composition dry and grounded, which helps make Taormine a lovely summer scent.

The leather in the dry down here is gentle. It reminds me slightly of Bottega Veneta’s Eau de Parfum, which is all the rich leather of Milan fashion week, high heels and handbags. However, the leather of Taormine is a little more comfortable and lived-in, like the shoes you wore down to the beach earlier, now covered in a dusting of sand.

Taormine definitely has a comforting feel, but there’s also a complexity to it, and, in that, a quiet elegance. I sometimes tend to think of summer scents (and especially the citrus-driven colognes) as being more sharply acidic and more simple in character than this fragrance is. With Taormine, Keiko Mecheri shows us that summery fragrances can be both soft and complex, and completely season-appropriate.

I can easily imagine wearing this fragrance while on vacation: relaxing during the afternoon with a book, or going out to dinner on a sultry evening. The only flaw is that I wish this one had a little bit more staying power. It’s very much a skin scent on me, which is fine. I get around 5 hours wear time from it, but I’d love for it to go just little bit longer, especially in warmer weather. Believe it or not, this is actually the first Keiko Mecheri scent I’ve tried. I’m happy with this as a first choice, and I’m looking forward to sampling more!

Taormine was originally released in 2010 as part of La Collection Hesperides. I’m not sure if it was intended to be a limited edition, but both samples and full bottles are still available from Luckyscent (which is where I got my sample).

Image is from fragrantica while info about fragrance notes is from luckyscent.

What I’m Wearing: Summer Edition

June 12, 2014

Water Lilies and Japanese Bridge by Monet

I love sampling and writing reviews of different fragrances, but what I’m sampling doesn’t always correspond with what I’m wearing day-to-day. And since I do significantly change up my fragrances depending on the season, this seemed like the perfect time to take a break from the regular review format.

The month of June here has been humid, stormy, and grey in general so far – not the most picturesque start to summer. And while it hasn’t gotten outright hot yet, the humidity means the heat has been felt nonetheless. So, here are a few fragrances I’ve been wearing to combat or complement the weather:

Jo Malone; Peony & Blush Suede: sometimes I wake up in the morning knowing exactly what outfit and what fragrance I want to wear, while other times I have no clue. Peony & Blush Suede is the scent I’ve been defaulting to when I can’t figure out what to wear, and for one simple reason: it’s never the wrong thing to wear. This is good for the office, for running errands, even for working out (if you’re into perfume at the gym). Peony & Blush Suede is sweet, but the bright red apple top note keeps it on the refreshing side, and the humidity and I are both thankful that this never falls into sticky-sweet territory. It dries down into a very soft, appealing skin scent (I see the suede influence). I’m almost out of my 30 ml bottle of this, and I use this one so often, I’m considering ordering the 100 ml version next.

Dolce & Gabbana; Light Blue: Light Blue has become a veteran of the mass market, so much so that it’s practically ubiquitous these days (I’ve noticed Sephora is promoting it especially hard this summer). That doesn’t mean Light Blue is unworthy of the attention. In fact, this scent is a deceptively interesting blend: a mass market sheer fruity-floral that isn’t sweet. The zesty citrus top notes give it an effervescent champagne-like quality, while the dose of cedar grounds the composition, making this the rare sheer fragrance that still manages to pack a punch. The longevity is remarkable for an EdT, I easily get 8 hours of wear time from this. I’ve been wearing Light Blue on and off for ten years now, and I find myself returning to it again and again as a dependable warm weather fragrance.

Diptyque; Tam Dao: The opening of Tam Dao is so sharp, dry, and green that it’s almost medicinal. It could be off-putting to some, but on the hottest of days, I crave that blast of greenness, it’s the only cure for the heat. And anyway, sandalwood is the star of the show here, the prickling green opening merely paves the way. As the sandalwood makes its presence known, Tam Dao takes on a creamy texture. But this isn’t the rich creaminess of something like Tom Ford’s Santal Blush; this isn’t vanilla-based. The creaminess is only here to give texture and depth, while the sandalwood remains dry as a bone. I usually associate woody fragrances with Autumn/Winter, but Tam Dao is perfect for summer, exerting enough of a dry, green edge to cut through any hot day.

By Kilian; A Taste of Heaven: This is one of the strangest green fragrances I’ve yet tried. A Taste of Heaven is literally green juice in the bottle, presumably done to imitate absinthe, it’s inspiration. Luckily, this isn’t quite as lurid green as absinthe, but wearing it may be just as much of a trip. Despite the lavender and bergamot, I can’t say that this is a particularly refreshing green fragrance. It has fresh qualities for sure, especially when first sprayed on. But this also takes on a creamy texture, and where Tam Dao remains dry, A Taste of Heaven is vanilla-based, and so it takes on a gourmand aspect. The vanilla and tonka bean give this an edible quality, so that A Taste of Heaven always ends up reminding me of cream soda. I enjoy spritzing this on and letting all the different aspects unfold, from the fresh, aromatic, and lightly spicy beginning to the textured dry-down. This is a weird, yet appealing choice for a summer night out.

What fragrances have you been enjoying so far this summer?

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Maison Francis Kurkdjian’s Lumiere Noire pour Femme

May 28, 2014

Notes: cumin, pimiento, rose, narcissus, and patchouli.

Skin chemistry and perception are funny things. I’ve never been a fan of floral fragrances, and rose in particular has always been the most difficult for me to pull off. Add rose to a composition, and it just doesn’t seem to sit right on my skin. The only rose I’ve really regretted not being able to wear is Kilian’s Liaisons Dangereuses, which is objectively beautiful and sumptuous, but, again, not quite right for me.

For a long time, I’ve stuck to fragrances that trend more masculine, or to gourmands—anything to avoid a floral explosion! But I’m learning that the really great thing about taste is that it can change.

And who better to change my mind about rose than Francis Kurkdjian? I know that rose-patchouli is not a new theme for him. Quite honestly, I thought I would prefer his Absolue Pour Le Soir, a dark composition with a floral heart. But, again, perception and expectation can play with you, and I ended up falling for the rosy Lumiere Noire instead.

For me, this one plays out as a bit more Lumiere than Noire. The opening is vibrant and sparkling with spice. I’ve seen some comments and reviews where people found the first minute or so unpleasant because of the strong cumin, but it never really shows up on my skin so I can’t speak to that. I do, however, get the pimiento, which adds a nice kind of crackling sensation—you can almost feel it. But the spice is never overwhelming, and it quickly blends in with the composition to create a lively floral.

Lumiere Noire is quite a bit more green than I expected. I wouldn’t say this is a “clean” fragrance, but the rose here is never stifling, perhaps the more astringent narcissus helps to balance it. The entire composition maintains a fresh edge even after the opening wears off, and I would say that even the patchouli here is of the polite variety.

But I don’t want to oversell the Lumiere aspect of this fragrance. It’s true, Lumiere Noire is delicate and romantic, but it’s not insipid. With light comes shadows, and the shadows cast here open up spaces for contemplation, for a little brooding, even. It’s an elegant kind of brooding though, like sitting with a glass of red wine while still wearing your makeup and jewelry after a long day. Lumiere Noire dries down to something quite sensual, quite intimate, like a secret. I found that I liked wearing it to bed, there’s a dreamy quality to it.

I can’t remember now what prompted me to order a sample of this fragrance, but I’m glad that I did. With Lumiere Noire, Mr. Kurkdjian has taught me that there’s no need to be afraid of wearing florals, and that rose can be both dark and light, delicate and tenacious. There’s a kind of gentle perseverance to Lumiere Noire, as it lasts for a good six hours before fading (and I’m wondering if that will increase now in warmer weather).

This version is “Pour Femme” but I could easily see it working fantastically on a man, and I’m eager to try its counterpart, Lumiere Noire Pour Homme. For now, this one is definitely on the list for a full bottle.

Lumiere Noire Pour Femme is available from retailers such as Bergdorf’s. I got my sample from Luckyscent, where both samples and full bottles are available.

Image is from fragrantica while info about fragrance notes is from Luckyscent.

Warm to Cool: Diptyque’s Eau de Lavande

May 15, 2014

Notes: lavender, coriander, cinnamon, nutmeg.

As soon as I saw that Diptyque had released a lavender fragrance, I knew I had to try it. I love Diptyque’s Feuille de Lavande candle, and since Guerlain’s Jicky is one of my all-time favorite fragrances, it’s accurate to say that I love a good fougère fragrance. I was eager to see what kind of relationship I could have with Eau de Lavande.

I expected a lavender for summer, something green and herbal that would cut into the heat of the day before drying down to something warm, perhaps with hints of the animalic. I even compared the Eau de Lavande ingredients with those listed on my Jicky box, and saw enough similarities (coumarin notable about them) to confirm my expectations. Note: I did all of this before even trying a single spritz of Eau de Lavande!! If this were a cartoon, warning signs would be flashing red inside my mind. Since this is real life, I sprayed the fragrance on, not expecting to be surprised.

As it turns out, Eau de Lavande is an exercise in subverting expectations. This lavender has no interest in verging on the freshly green or cool. From first spray, it’s a noticeably warm and substantial fragrance. The spices are immediately prominent, getting almost equal billing with the lavender. I also get quite a strong impression of musk even though it’s not listed in the notes. All this is to say that the opening of Eau de Lavande is not a green or herbal floral. There are enough spicy and animalic elements at play for this to be a really interesting attention-grabber in the early stages.

Then, like a reverse-engineered fougère, Eau de Lavande’s warmth melts away as the composition cools down during the middle and dry down stages. After about an hour’s wear time, the spices recede and the composition blooms into a full soliflore. Diptyque sourced three different variations of French lavender to achieve this full bloom effect. I sometimes feel overwhelmed by strong florals, but not here. There’s actually a kind of cool relief as this fragrance develops. After the rather heady opening, one has the impression of finding a spot of shade in the middle of a lavender field.

These days Diptyque seems mainly interested in putting out pleasantly wearable fragrances as opposed to creativity-driven releases. There’s nothing wrong with wearability, and Eau de Lavande is highly wearable, for either day or nighttime. But there’s a little more to this composition than mere wearability. I feel like Olivia Giacobetti has done something quite clever here, almost playing the fougère accord backwards from warm to cool. This fragrance isn’t an absolute favorite for me, but I appreciate Eau de Lavande for making me think and challenging my expectations.

Eau de Lavande is part of Diptyque’s Les Florales collection. It is available as a roll-on or in a 100 ml bottle from Diptyque. Full bottles and samples are also available from Luckyscent.

Image and information regarding fragrance notes is from fragrantica.

Dessert Flirt; Guerlain’s Gourmand Coquin

April 30, 2014

Notes: black pepper, rose, smoky tea, rum, chocolate.

I first encountered Gourmand Coquin in person at the Guerlain counter at Saks. Still reeling from a blast of Flowerbomb earlier, I asked the Guerlain rep to recommend me anything as long as it wasn’t overtly floral, and that’s when she handed me a test strip of Gourmand Coquin. When I passed it to my sister for her opinion, she laughed and declared simply: “It’s dessert!”

Dessert is certainly the main talking point of this delicious confection of a fragrance. Gourmand Coquin will be too sweet for some people. However, Guerlain lists black pepper as a top note here, and for good reason. I detect, not necessarily a spiciness, but a stinging quality to this opening (it reads more gingery than peppery to me, but that’s only my perception). This dessert has a bite to it, and it means business.

My initial thought was that this is a linear composition. After the drama of the stinging opening, it settles into a dark chocolate laced with vanilla liqueur that is very enticing, but didn’t seem to evolve on my skin. After more sampling and testing while out and about, I think I was a little short-sighted. Gourmand Coquin has fantastic staying power. I’ve worn it during the day, at night, out to dinner (where, by the way, the foodie smell did not compete in a negative way with the food), and it has lasted enough so that I still detect it faintly on my sheets the next morning.

But I have to revise my opinion that it doesn’t develop or evolve. I’ve found that sometimes, I’ll smell my wrist and get deep, dark chocolate. Other times, it’s iced gingerbread. Then it’s crème brulée. It’s sensual, sometimes deeply sexy, and other times simply delightfully smooth. The coquin of the name is apt, as this fragrance flirts relentlessly with your skin chemistry, and your perceptions and desires. It’s haunting, conjuring phantom ideas in the most real way.

The artistry of Gourmand Coquin is that it gives the impression of sweetness and richness, but in perfectly controlled proportion. In wearing this, you don’t smell like a literal slice of chocolate cake. Rather, it gives the impression of sitting in a bakery, sipping un café au lait, while that chocolate cake and all the other delicious treats you can imagine are cooling from the oven. It is amazing that such a carefully controlled composition can produce something that evokes such imagination.

I know that Guerlain’s Elixir Charnel line, with its youthful cotton candy pink and purple juices, has been met with extremely mixed reviews. And the steep price of this line can be difficult to justify, especially if you’d prefer to add more classic Guerlains to your collection instead. But, Gourmand Coquin is uniquely intoxicating and imaginative. It is the ultimate gourmand for me at the moment. If you find it works for you, there is nothing else quite like it.

Gourmand Coquin is part of the exclusive Les Elixirs Charnels collection. It is available at select Guerlain counters, and online from Saks. I obtained my sample from The Posh Peasant.
The image is from fragrantica, while info on fragrance notes is from Guerlain’s official site.

Midnight in London; Black Cedarwood & Juniper

April 17, 2014

Notes: cumin, chili leaves, juniper, cedar.

I’ve only been to London twice, and, if you can believe it, I escaped London downpours both times. So I can’t speak to the exact accuracy of Jo Malone’s London Rain collection. However, like any interesting fragrance, this collection is more about evoking a certain mood rather than reflecting reality.

The London Rain fragrance that immediately jumped out at me as the moodiest is Black Cedarwood & Juniper. When I say “jumped out at me” I mean that literally. The chili leaves make the opening of this fragrance a lively one and, at first spray, this sparkles on the skin. But despite the effervescent opening, this scent isn’t entirely “fresh” smelling. There’s an intriguing savory edge, which is probably due to the unique combination of cumin and chili leaves.

Black Cedarwood really comes to life once the cedar begins to peek through. I get hints of it about half an hour into wear time, and it’s like late afternoon sunlight filtering into the room through the slats of your blinds. Cedar, with its rich distinctive smell, enhances the savory atmosphere of the composition while adding some much needed dimension and depth.

You may be wondering where the rain aspect comes into play in this fragrance. I believe that’s the juniper’s job, as it has a slightly more cool and aquatic feel than the other notes at work here. This composition could easily become overheated and overstuffed with too-rich ingredients, but the juniper heart keeps everything in perfect Jo Malone order.

Still, Black Cedarwood is the least sheer of the London Rain fragrances. There’s something about this scent that feels tangible on the skin, almost edible. This is noticeable in the drydown, where the cedar is balanced out by a creaminess. But this isn’t a typically cozy, creamy vanilla dry down, as something of that intriguing edge from the opening remains.

It’s this edge that gives Black Cedarwood an urban feel and most clearly evokes nighttime London. Because this is a Jo Malone scent, the composition is never going to get too heedlessly dirty and out of control. This isn’t a messy night out. It was a classy affair that maybe got wild for a bit there, but it’s your secret to keep now that you’re home and settled into bed. In the morning, traces of smudged eyeliner will be the only hint of what might have taken place last night.

The sales rep I spoke to at Nordstrom said that Black Cedarwood has been their best-selling fragrance from the London Rain collection, and it’s easy to see why. It’s so strikingly different from the rest of the collection, you can’t help but take notice of it and appreciate it for being so unique. In the end, I found it irresistible and had to go for a full bottle.

Black Cedarwood & Juniper (along with the rest of the London Rain Collection) can be found at Jo Malone, and at retailers like Saks, Neiman Marcus, and Nordstrom. The London Rain Collection is limited edition and comes in the 100 mls size only.

Image and info on fragrance notes are from fragrantica.

Speaking of Paris; Carven’s Le Parfum

April 7, 2014

Notes: mandarin blossom, white hyacinth, apricot blossom, sweet pea, jasmine, ylang-ylang, sandalwood, osmanthus, and Indonesian patchouli.

I’ve enjoyed seeing the house of Carven’s revival under Guillaume Henry, with successful womenswear and menswear lines. Of course, a fragrance revival must come next, and I was intrigued by the release of a new perfume, and doubly so when I learned that Francis Kurkdjian was the nose behind it.

In looking at some of the promotional material for Le Parfum, I’ve seen emphasis being placed on words like “fresh” and “sparkling.” Looking at the bouquet white floral notes, that seems to make sense. However, on my skin, it’s a little bit of a different story.

The opening is sparkling for sure, a burst of florals and apricot that is nearly effervescent. But this scent doesn’t stay completely fresh and clean on me for very long. If the opening is bursting with fresh ripeness, the next stage is a flirtation with turning sour. (I wonder if it’s the apricot blossom and osmanthus working in tandem?)

This composition is meant to be a pretty one, so the sourness remains restrained. It never develops into anything truly dirty. However, something like cigarette smoke appears a little over an hour into wear time. I haven’t seen any other reviews mention this facet, and the first time I detected it myself, I thought it was a fluke. But the smoke is determined to stay on my skin, reminding me irresistibly of a lighter version of Etat Libre d’Orange’s Jasmin et Cigarette.

The smoke disappears in the drydown stages and here I am left with the neutral, clean, soapy impression that I’ve seen the reviews and promo pieces mention. By this stage, it’s an intimate skin scent. The projection is extremely minimal, like a pleasant secret to enjoy all on your own.

I like this fragrance, I like the sparkling opening and the quietness of the drydown. Moreover, I’m intrigued by that hint of sourness and by that elusive smoke note. Le Parfum is a Parisian fragrance precisely because of this mixture of prettiness with slightly unexpected aspects. It evokes the strange intimacy of the city, that oddly personal moment when crowding onto the metro, you happen to catch the scent of someone else’s fragrance laced with cigarette smoke.

Like Paris, Carven Le Parfum isn’t as wholly pretty as it (and the very appealing packaging) would have you believe. Yet, at the same time, it’s utterly classic.

Carven; Le Parfum is available from retailers such as Saks and Nordstrom. It comes in 30, 50, and 100 mls. I asked for a sample to take home while shopping at Nordstrom.

Byredo; Gypsy Water

July 15, 2012

Notes: bergamot, lemon, pepper, juniper; incense, pine needles, orris root, amber, vanilla and sandalwood.

At first sniff, Gypsy Water is somewhat similar to Bal d’Afrique. I get that same sensation of fresh baked lemon squares. To me, Gypsy Water is a delicious, but elegant gourmand. The top notes here aren’t all citrus-based, and I quickly sense the spicy pepper. This leads me think that this gourmand isn’t just about dessert, it’s about an entire meal. Ultimately, I get the sense of a kitchen from this fragrance. Gypsy Water is about touches of spice mixed with a fresh green quality (the pine needles). The base of vanilla and sandalwood bring a sense of coziness. This kitchen is a lovely place to spend time, full of warmth and love.

And yet, I’m afraid of being misleading when using words like ‘warmth’ and ‘spicy’ to describe this scent. Gypsy Water is composed with the lightest of touches. The spice is delicate, never overpowering. I’ve described this as a gourmand, but it’s a refreshing gourmand. Don’t worry, this delicacy doesn’t translate to a short wear time. I lamented that Bal d’Afrique didn’t have as much staying power as I would have liked. Gypsy Water does, but it’s subtle.

I recently wore this out to dinner with family. It survived the long family dinner and messing around with little cousins afterwards. As I was walking home, I thought something smells great out here tonight! and even said it out loud. My cousins said they didn’t smell anything. When I got home and still sensed it, I realized that great smell was Gypsy Water, still wafting up from wrist.

By the way, I just realized that Byredo is now offering travel sized refills of their perfumes. The travel set comes as a set of three, and you even choose a leather travel case. It’s a fun and slightly more affordable option. I don’t think I will ever go for one the 100 ml bottles. The price isn’t worth it for me, as I just don’t think I need that much, as delicious as Gypsy Water is. But I am absolutely contemplating the travel set.

Byredo; Gypsy Water $220 for 100 ml // $145 for 50 ml // $110 for three 12 ml travel refills. Byredo is available at Barney’s or at Byredo.com. I got my sample from The Perfumed Court.

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My Grandma Hates Perfume

July 9, 2012

Hello, Everyone!

I went to visit my grandparents over vacation, and it got me thinking. My grandmother has a famously sensitive nose, she never wears perfume, and will not hesitate to make a comment if she thinks you’re wearing something too strong. I once stopped at a Jo Malone counter while shopping with her at a department store. When I bought a bottle of Cologne 154, she told me not to spray it in the house. It was the first time I ever thought about going outside just to apply perfume.

When talking about perfume, many people mention scents that remind them of their mothers or their grandmothers. There are fragrances that take people back to their childhood, to that time when you would catch glimpses of mom putting on makeup before going out.

But I didn’t start wearing perfume until I was relatively independent and living away from home. Different perfumes conjure up college (I went through a long-lasting Dolce & Gabbana Light Blue phase) or grad school, or just traveling abroad. Scent is obviously closely linked to memory, and the memories fragrances conjure up for me usually center around places, not people. Perfume for me signifies independence and dreaming of new places and experiences.

This is why I was surprised when I visited my Grandma this time and she said ‘I have something I wanted to give you. I know you like that brand, what’s it called? It’s the woman’s name.’ Someone had gifted her some Jo Malone body wash and lotion. She knew she would never use it and thought to give it to me!

I’ll get her to try perfume yet.

What about you? Does perfume evoke specific memories for you? And are your family/friends accepting of your perfume habits?

{the painting: Poppy Field in Argenteuil; Claude Monet, 1873}

Farmacia SS. Annunziata; Isos

June 23, 2012

Notes: Ceylon cloves, Tunisian mint, myrrh, Madagascar pepper, guaiac wood, vetiver, cedar.

Fresh ground pepper is one of my favorite things in the world, and asking the server to bring out the pepper grinder is truly one of my favorite moments of eating out at a restaurant. Now that I’ve discovered Isos, I can get that same heady sensation just by sniffing my wrist. And that’s what I’ve been doing obsessively for the past week: inhaling Isos. Other perfume samples have been left untouched while I’ve been greedily splashing on my Isos sample.

This is partly due to the current weather here. It was in mid-90s all this past week and the bone-dry peppery spice was the only thing that could cut through the melt-worthy heat. Because, despite the spice, Isos doesn’t give off a ‘dirty’ vibe. This pepper is clean and invigorating. I have a feeling the mint note plays a role here. And, even though I only detect the lightest touch of mint, it lifts the composition. I don’t see citrus listed anywhere in the notes, but it’s all over the drydown for me. I get a softly intoxicating pepper/cedar/citrus mix in the end before Isos finally fades away.

Farmacia SS (full name: Farmacis SS. Annunziata dal 1561, quite the mouthful!) is a completely new brand to me. I stumbled upon it on Luckyscent, and their description of this unique fragrance line is worth reading. Apparently it was originally associated with a monastery in the 16th century, and it is one of the oldest brands in Italy. For those of us not fortunate enough to live in Italy, Luckyscent currently carries 15 of Farmacia’s fragrances for us to sample, including Isos of course.

I realize that not everyone is similarly crazy about pepper as I am, but I would say: don’t be alarmed by a pepper-centric fragrance. Isos is strong in the beginning, but it’s not something that would scare anyone away. Like I said, the drydown is actually quite soft, while still retaining a dry spiced edge. I cannot emphasize enough how pleasant this perfume is. It conjures up dreams of a leisurely lunch at a trattoria where I’ve got a fresh salad, a crisp glass of wine and I’m watching the Italian summer roll on. Somehow, nothing else seems necessary.

Farmacia SS. Annunziata dal 1561; Isos: $120 for 100 ml. Samples and full bottles available from Luckyscent.

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