Luckyscent recently started carrying Atelier des Ors and I had to snap up a few samples. “Or” means gold in French and, yes, those are actual gold flakes pictured floating in the full bottle. A few flecks of gold even made it into my samples. The gold doesn’t add anything in an olfactory sense but it’s definitely eye-catching. And Aube Rubis does have a luminous quality that makes the gold feel appropriate. Of the fragrances that I tried, this one really stood out to me.
The listed top notes are the fruity notes, including bergamot, grapefruit, and blackcurrant. But the opening for me is overwhelmingly an iris note. It’s crisp, dry, and a little vegetal. This is not a makeup/cosmetics iris. It’s only slightly powdery and it gradually develops to an even more earthy feel. Aube Rubis is reminiscent of Dior Homme at this point. The main different being that the iris isn’t the central note here in Aube Rubis, and the composition quickly evolves from the opening.
The grapefruit note becomes apparent as the iris blends into the composition. The grapefruit brings a sparkling effect just as the patchouli note also comes to the forefront. It’s a really interesting accord, since the patchouli is earthy while the grapefruit brings a very vibrant sparkling vibe. The combination results in a bittersweet kind of scent. Aube Rubis is almost edible at this point, but not truly gourmand. It’s also extremely pretty and much more wearable than it might sound.
The dry down is where Aube Rubis does take a turn for the gourmand. I’m definitely a gourmand-lover, and I don’t find the praline note to be overly strong. However, if you don’t care for gourmands at all, you may feel differently. On my skin, the praline brings some sweetness and a bit of a nutty flavor as well. I would have guessed it was a hazelnut note if I hadn’t seen it listed as praline. But overall, this is not a sticky sweet dry down by any means.
The vetiver helps to keep the composition grounded in an earthy feel. The praline simply means that the bittersweet effect from the grapefruit is now softly sweet. I get some pretty decent longevity from Aube Rubis as well. It’s definitely a skin scent by the dry down but I can still sense it up to the 8-hour mark, which is more than I got with the other Ateliers I tried (Lune Feline and Larmes du Desert, for reference).
Overall, Aube Rubis caught my attention with its unique take on some staple notes, like iris, grapefruit, and patchouli. And I quite like the praline in the base here. Like I said, it’s very wearable. As niche fragrances prices keep going up (even Luca Turin has commented on it) these kinds of fragrances need to justify their luxe prices. I don’t need fancy gold flakes in my fragrances, but I do need them to smell good. Aube Rubis is quite beautiful at times. I don’t know if it’s worthy of a full bottle for me, but I’m glad to have tried this one.
Atelier des Ors is a niche fragrance line that is now available from Luckyscent, which is where I got my sample.
The image and info on notes are both from Luckyscent.