Notes: coriander seed, Sicilian bergamot, carrot seed, schinus molle, orris absolute, jasmine absolute, magnolia bud oil, osmanthus, vanilla extract, Tahitian vanilla bud, cedar wood, vetiver, amber, and musk.
Vanille d’Iris is the newest addition to the Ormonde Jayne line, and it’s actually my first Ormonde Jayne fragrance. I’ve been exploring and enjoying iris as a note, both as a powdery iris and as the more rich orris butter note. And I’m always a fan of vanilla, whether it’s a warm and rich vanilla, or a sweet and gourmand version of vanilla. So, Vanille d’Iris seemed like the right place for me personally to start with Ormonde Jayne.
Vanille d’Iris opens with an aromatic and effervescent feel, thanks to the bergamot and the schinus molle (i.e. pink pepper) notes. I was expecting something earthy from this fragrance but the opening here is more on the green and vegetal side. There’s a carroty touch, bringing root vegetables to mind. On my skin, iris fragrances with a carrot touch manifest with a papery feel on my skin. It sounds strange, but it’s actually not off-putting. It blends really nicely with the sparkling, spiky pink pepper and the shimmering aromatic bergamot.
The orris gradually comes in, adding a smooth base to support the more sparkling opening notes (which never truly fade throughout wear time, making this a compelling composition). In addition to the orris, there are some other floral touches in the heart of the composition here. The osmanthus amplifies the orris with a fleshy/pulpy feel. The jasmine and magnolia are lighter to me, more reflecting light or, in this case, reflecting other notes, rather than providing a solid base of their own.
It turns out that Vanille d’Iris is an earthy fragrance, you just have to wait for the base notes to appear to get there. I absolutely love cedar, and I find it as gorgeous as ever here. It adds a rich but dry woody note, deepening those green vegetal notes from the opening. And of course, we must discuss the vanilla. This is no sugary creme brulee vanilla note. I don’t find it particularly warm either. The vanilla here is dry, like a vanilla pod.
In fact, the vanilla becomes the star of the show for me even though it doesn’t fully appear until several hours into wear time. The vanilla here is dry, yet still radiates a richness. It successfully anchors the composition, adding depth but not over-powering any other notes. This careful balance makes Vanille d’Iris one of the most elegant vanilla scents I’ve tried, and I love that it manages to be both earthy and sophisticated. If you’re not a fan of overly sweet gourmand vanillas, I definitely recommend this one. I’m really glad I decided to try Vanille d’Iris, and now I’m excited to explore more from Ormonde Jayne.
The image and the info on notes are both from the Ormonde Jayne site.