Dualities at Work: Parfumerie Generale’s Djhenné

parfumerie generale djhenneNotes: grey lavender, mint leaves, seringa blossom, cocoa beans, blue cedar, wheat absolute, myrrh, blonde leather accord.

I’m a fan of lavender (especially for summer), so I was pleased to discover that Djhenné opens with this note. However, this lavender is not of the bracing, sharp variety. This is a suave, herbal lavender that introduces the fragrance with a cool elegance. The mint and seringa blossom enhance the herbaceous aspect, and lend an almost soapy feel to this opening.

But Pierre Guillaume ensures that Djhenné never tips over into the “clean” category. The concept of Djhenné is constructed around dualities. Monsieur Guillaume imagines this fragrance as an oasis in the middle of the desert, or, in his own words, as a “warm shadow.” The cool/warm and dry/wet contrasts are obvious in his language here, but they play out in a bit more of a subtle way in the fragrance itself.

Djhenné goes very quiet after the initial opening. My advice is: just wait. The first time I tried this, I had to force myself to stop sniffing my wrist every thirty seconds and just let it settle in. If you’re patient enough, you’ll eventually notice hints of cedar wafting around you. It’s very arid at this stage, and you can begin to see the desert of Guillaume’s vision taking shape around the oasis of cool lavender.

But just when you think this is settling down into a dry woody accord, a taste of gourmand sneaks in. The cocoa here doesn’t add up to a dessert-like chocolate for me. I think the wheat note helps to soften it out, and the gourmand aspect takes on the feel of chocolate milk paired with a shortbread biscuit. It’s nothing hugely decadent, but rather like a small sweet treat. Moreover it adds some much-needed depth to the heart of this composition.

The blond leather accord of the base comes off as more musky to me than anything else. Still, it’s nice, and there is a touch of dirtiness about it that acts as a clever counterbalance to the soapiness of the opening. This stage lasts forever, too. It fades so slowly, I can still detect hints of it while getting ready for bed.

I’ve already used the word quiet in this write-up to describe Djhenné, but it’s apt. This fragrance really has a pensive, reserved feel. It’s not that Djhenné doesn’t have a lot to say, the multiple developments it goes through during wear time are fascinating. It simply refuses to be rushed or loud about the story it has to tell.

I’ve worn Djhenné a few times on days when I wanted something peaceful and restful, and it fits the mood perfectly. Although there’s an elegance here, I wouldn’t wear this for a night out, maybe only for a dinner with one or two other people. There is something undeniably intimate about this perfume, and it remains predominately a skin scent on me. Between this and Taormine, I’m coming to appreciate the allure of soft, warm fragrances for hotter weather. We all need comfort scents, even during summer. And perhaps the ultimate duality of Djhenné is that its strangely compelling nature ends up being comforting.

Samples and full bottles of Djhenné are available from Luckyscent, which is where I obtained my sample.

Image and info about notes is taken from Luckyscent.

Parfumerie Generale; Papyrus de Ciane

Notes: bergamot, galbanum, neroli, broom, solar notes, lavender, mugwort, clove, incense, cistus labadanum, hedione, vetiver, Mousse de Saxe, Silvanone, white musk

My obsession with Parfumerie Generale continues with Pierre Guillaume’s 24th entry in this line, Papyrus de Ciane. And I even think I’ve found my perfect summer scent in this one! It reached 90 degrees plus humidity here last weekend, but this miracle-working fragrance made the heat slightly bearable.

Papyrus de Ciane opens with a harsh, severe blast of grassy green notes and cool lavender. This sharp greenness was very welcome in the unrelenting humidity–the cool severity was exactly what I wanted! Very quickly though, a floral note appears to soften the composition, I’m guessing this is the broom note (I’m unfamiliar with broom flowers). The fragrance remains lovely, green and floral until the drydown, when things get really interesting.

The clove and the musk come through for me, adding a welcome soft spiciness. The composition takes on a subtle powdery texture, which I found nice rather than ‘old-lady.’ I also sense some licorice in there, which seems to be the Mousse de Saxe. I have never sampled Caron’s Nuit de Noel, so this has been my first experience with this iconic base and, I have to say, I like it. From reading, I gather that Mousse de Saxe is a mossy leather with some licorice in there. It’s the perfect soft, elegant drydown for this unusual green scent.

The contrast between the sharp opening and the soft drydown is compelling, and it somehow doesn’t feel disjointed. Though there is some spice in there, the drydown isn’t heavily spicy. It still manages to project that same cooling effect as the top notes. But there’s a surprising sensuality and sexiness to it that I don’t often find in ‘green’ fragrances.

Reading other reviews of Papyrus de Ciane, it seems this is a love it or hate it fragrance with very little middle ground (some people get air freshener or cleaning product vibes from it). Definitely sample this one to see where you fall, but I obviously fell for it hard. I couldn’t help ordering a full bottle to keep me cool all summer.

Parfumerie Generale; Papyrus de Ciane: $95 for 50 ml. Full bottles and samples available from Luckyscent.

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Parfumerie Generale; Aomassai

Notes: caramel, toasted hazelnuts, licorice, bitter orange, spices, wenge wood, vetiver, balsam wood, incense, dried grasses, resins

This write-up is a bit of  a continuation of my previous Parfumerie Generale post but, unlike Coze, Aomassai could never be mistaken for anything other than a gourmand. In fact, Aomassai is the most unabashedly foodie fragrance I’ve yet come across. The opening note is  sweet, sweet caramel. The sweetness isn’t sticky or sickly, but pure sugar. It isn’t heavy, syrupy, or overbearing. Aomassai settles in with toasty cinnamon-y notes, making me dream of fluffy french toast. This definitely isn’t a fragrance to wear on an empty stomach.

I wanted to do this write-up after Coze because there’s an undercurrent of that same bone-dry woodiness here. It’s as though Pierre Guillaume wanted to use Coze as a base and see what new directions he could take it in. The grassy, woody notes weave in and out of the fragrance, adding some depth and intrigue without ever completely taking over. This isn’t a retread of Coze, but a re-imagining.

Aomassai is deliriously sugary, but with a dry edge.  You might think the sweetness means this is a feminine scent, but I don’t think that’s necessarily true. I’d love to smell this on a man. This isn’t the loudest, strongest perfume out there (indeed, it’s only an EdT), but it’s quite distinctive. This is a must-try if you’re into gourmands. And even if not, even if you’re just in the mood to smell like the most intriguing dessert ever imagined, go ahead and give Aomassai a shot.

Pafumerie Generale; Aomassai: $105 for 50 ml. Samples & full bottles available from Luckyscent.

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Parfumerie Generale; Coze

Notes: canapa sativa seed oil, pepper, pimento, coffee, ebony wood, chocolate, bourbon vanilla pods

I’ve spent this entire winter living in dry, woody, smokey fragrances, and Coze is one of the samples I kept returning to again and again. Parfumerie Generale’s Coze is unapologetic about what it is: a dry, dark, carnal scent. The opening is actually a bit harsh on me. It’s like a strong cup of coffee infused with dry dark wood, and I can practically see the smoke swirling in a coffee cup. My first impression was: interesting, but do I want to wear this?

If you’ve looked at the notes you can see there are several food notes in this composition. In addition to coffee, there’s chocolate and some boozy vanilla, but Coze isn’t a foodie fragrance. There is a sweetness here, but it’s not  yummy and sugary. It’s a rather heavy, dark sweetness. A sweetness that feels somehow dangerous. It’s disarming. It’s unexpected, and you wonder if it’s really supposed to be there.

Coze remains dry throughout, but it blooms into a relative richness after a few hours of wear. That initial coffee note gives way to something salty, dry, and animalic. This is the truly dirty, carnal aspect to Coze. There’s a heat to it, but it is not warm and cozy. There’s something about the dryness that keeps Coze at arm’s length. It’s intimate, but, at the same time, there’s something about this fragrance that remains unknowable, unreachable, fleeting, until it finally fades away.

Pierre Guillaume named his fragrance line Parfumerie Generale as a play on his initials, and he’s made these foodie fragrances with a twist into a specialty. Coze is a fragrance that defies classification. It has these gourmand notes but is not something you’d want to eat. It’s dry, but sumptuous. It’s reminiscent of sex, but is not exactly sexy. It has masculine overtones, but I enjoy wearing this and I think it’s an amazing fragrance for a woman.

I wouldn’t wear Coze everyday. In fact, I’m not sure exactly what occasion is appropriate for this perfume. But I’ve found that my original question of do I want to wear this? is almost irrelevant here. Coze is intoxicating. I would recommend getting a sample and letting it speak to you.

Parfumerie Generale, Coze: $120 for 50 ml. Samples and full bottles available from Luckyscent.

And if we’re talking about the Hot Perfumeur Sweepstakes, Pierre Guillaume is definitely in the running:

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