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No. 5 L’Eau by Chanel

September 29, 2016

Notes: lemon, mandarin orange, neroli, aldehydes, rose, jasmine, ylang-ylang, cedar, white musk, vanilla, and orris root.

Most of the writing I’ve done on here about Chanel has been focused on the Exclusifs de Chanel line (although I continue to love Chanel No. 19). I really haven’t touched on No. 5 in extrait form, the EdP, or even on Eau Premiere. No. 5 has long been a difficult fragrance for me to come to grips with. When I was first really becoming interested in the world of perfume, No. 5 seemed too intimidating to be wearable. More than that, it wasn’t really practical for every day wear during life as a student and starting out at my first jobs anyway. No. 5 seemed too iconic for me to even talk about. Well, with the current release of L’Eau, it’s time to finally come to terms with it.

One practical reason I haven’t gotten along with No. 5 over the years is that Chanel aldehydes give my skin chemistry some serious trouble. For instance, I thought I would love No. 22 but the opening doesn’t work at all for my skin. The same thing happens with No. 5 and, to a lesser extent, with Eau Premiere. In the case of Eau Premiere, I have to let the composition settle on my skin for about half an hour before I can start sniffing.

Luckily for me, the aldehydes in L’Eau are much more gentle on my skin chemistry and on my nose. The opening here is a bright burst of clean but yummy lemon. It reminds me of the San Pellegrino Limonata lemonade. There’s definitely a fizziness, and something like seltzer water with a metallic edge, as the aldehydes bounce around off the lemon and the neroli. L’Eau settles into a delicate lemon candy for the first hour or so. The composition is bright and sunny at this point, like mid-morning captured in a scent.

Since L’Eau is supposed to be such a light version of No. 5, I wasn’t sure that there would be much development in the composition, but fortunately there is. The ylang-ylang comes through to form the heart of L’Eau’s composition. The lemon candy transforms into a lemon bar with powdered sugar, until the powdered sugar melts away and the ylang-ylang is there as a soft yellow floral. The jasmine is entwined with the ylang-ylang, while the rose doesn’t come across at all to me.

The main thing I love about Eau Premiere is the sandalwood dry down. It’s creamy and almost edible, but still woody and gives such gorgeous depth to the composition. It made No. 5 wearable for me. The white musk here in L’Eau is a little less my style. I get mostly a powdery musk in the dry down which must be the orris root mixing with the white musk. Sadly I don’t sense any cedar. And, if anything, the vanilla comes across more in the heart of the composition with the ylang-ylang. Still, I’m impressed with the development of L’Eau. It’s not easy to coax real development out of such an airy, delicate fragrance but Olivier Polge manages it.

Overall verdict on L’Eau? It’s extremely well-edited and pretty. It does exactly what a flanker is supposed to do. It will never outshine the original, but it’s perfect for a younger demographic (which is clearly what Chanel wants, if the ads featuring Lily-Rose Depp are anything to go by). L’Eau is like a bright sunny morning. There’s some winking fun in there, too. L’Eau is the mimosa you order with breakfast while on vacation. Eau Premiere is the champagne cocktail before dinner. And the original? No. 5 is the grand vin de Bordeaux that you order with the main course.

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No. 5 L’Eau is an Eau de Toilette concentration available in 35, 50, and 100 ml bottles. You can find it directly from Chanel (the website does state that the 35 ml size is limited edition).

*I received a bottle of L’Eau as gratis through work, however no one asked me to do this write-up. This is completely my own impression of L’Eau and of Chanel’s No. 5 offerings in general.

The image is from Chanel and the info on notes is from Fragrantica.

Jersey by Chanel (Les Exclusifs)

August 20, 2015

Notes: lavender, musk, vanilla, wild flowers, grass, rose, jasmine, and tonka bean.

I first tried Chanel’s Jersey a couple of months ago when I was visiting London. I happened to be there during this summer’s infamous heat wave when it was the hottest day in London on record. On this record-breaking hot day, a friend and I decided to take a shopping trip to Harrod’s because, if everyone is going to be sweating anyway, why not do it in style? Jersey is a lavender-centric fragrance, and it ended up being exactly the type of refreshing scent required by such a hot day. I liked it so much that I ended up ordering a sample once I was back at home.

Just as you might expect, Jersey opens with a strong wave of lavender. It’s difficult not to think of fresh laundry or clean linen simply because of the association with lavender, but Jersey doesn’t come off as being terribly soapy to me. Or maybe, it’s just the right amount of clean because this fragrance is definitely about balance.

The opening lavender note is a little bit bracing, but not overly sharp. It settles down into a clean and refreshing scent, but not overly soapy to my nose. It has a green tinge that becomes more pronounced leading into the middle stage of the fragrance. I suppose this comes from the grass note, and this helps maintain the sense of freshness.

Jersey may be lavender-centric, but it’s not linear. The musk doesn’t make much of an appearance on my skin, but the vanilla most definitely does. This is a very Chanel vanilla in that it’s soft and creamy, but still elegant. It never turns into a gourmand vanilla, yet still adds a richness of texture to the fragrance.

Then the tonka bean comes in and really emphasizes the creamy texture just in case you weren’t getting enough from the vanilla. When I first noticed this change in texture, I panicked that the scent would become too heavy and figured that I’d have to wash it off. But again, perfumer Jacques Polge is all about balance, and the creamy texture here is rendered with an incredibly soft touch that’s more like cashmere than a down comforter. It makes for a dry down that’s both lovely and very wearable.

If you’re not a fan of lavender in general, Jersey probably isn’t for you. However, if you enjoy lavender, Jersey is one to try. I love lavender fragrances, so this has been perfect for me, particularly for summer wear. It’s recently gotten me though some of those late summer days where almost any fragrance feels too heavy in the humidity. Even the dry down has been wearable, and I think the echo of the lavender helps keep the composition on the lighter side in general. Jersey may not be the most complex scent out there. And again, the clean laundry associations will haunt almost any lavender fragrance, but Jersey gives off the proper air of elegance you’d expect from Chanel. Plus, it just smells great, which is all I can ask for, especially in these last days of summer.

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Les Exclusifs de Chanel are available directly from Chanel and at Chanel boutiques. They are also available in person at some department stores such as Bergdorf’s and Harrods. Jersey samples and decants are available from The Posh Peasant and The Perfumed Court, which is where I got my sample.

The image is from Chanel while the info on notes is from Fragrantica.

No. 19 by Chanel (Eau de Toilette)

June 18, 2015

Notes: galbanum, neroli, bergamot, jasmine, rose, lily of the valley, iris, vetiver, sandalwood, leather, and musk.

No. 19 was initially created by Henri Robert for Coco Chanel’s personal use. The name commemorates the date of her birthday, which is the 19th of August. No. 19 now exists in several different concentrations and versions: No. 19 poudré, the Eau de Toilette, the Eau de Parfum, and the Pure Parfum. Plus, there are still vintage bottles of it floating around. I ordered a small decant of the Eau de Toilette version. I’ve never had the opportunity to try a vintage sample of this one, and I’m sure it would smell quite different to my modern nose. But I have to say, I really enjoy this current EdT version.

I actually find No. 19 a bit difficult to describe. It’s a complex scent, and it doesn’t wear in a linear fashion. Notes seem to flit in and out at their will, circling back in just when you think they’ve disappeared for good. The opening is a blast of aldehydes followed by a very green galbanum note that sets the tone for the fragrance. I first tried No. 19 several years ago while exploring the Chanel counter, and I found this opening very off-putting at the time. It’s grown on me since then. But it’s true, this opening is extremely dry and green, and it can come off as too harsh if you’re not prepared for it.

Once the green opening settles in, I get a lush, spiced floral impression. It took me some time to parse out where this was coming from, but I think it’s the combination of a lush jasmine with a buttery iris, just before the powdery aspect of the iris comes into play. I also get a bit of leather threading its way through here, which may play up the spicy feeling on my skin. I really do not get much of the rose, which is fine as Chanel rose notes tend to be very subdued on me anyway. The powdery iris notes then become more pronounced, giving the overall composition a dry feeling similar to the opening again.

I’ve read people describing No. 19 as “cold” and “unemotional.” But I personally find it to be quite sensual. The recent Misia is far more cold to me and certainly more powdery. The way No. 19 wears may have something to do with it, as the sillage is moderate, which makes it a sophisticated choice for office wear. I myself have worn it out socially in the evenings as well, and enjoyed the little hints of green floral notes that waft up from time to time. I also like wearing it to bed, the powdery iris can be quite comforting. And it perfumes my sheets just enough so that it smells nice without being overwhelming.

The dry down is a sandalwood that almost reminds me of cedar because it feels so enriching, but it’s more on the dry side than an ultra-creamy sandalwood. I think there is still a touch of oakmoss in the current version, just a hint of an inky earthiness. Then the vetiver adds a final infusion of dry green notes to the composition. The last vestiges of the dry down fade just past the 5 hour mark, which is a decent amount of wear for an EdT concentration. If you’re planning to use this as your every day scent, you can definitely re-apply throughout the course of the day.

I’ve grown to love No. 19 over time. I have a small decant that I’m working my way through right now, and I’d love to someday own a bottle of it. I’ll work my way through some of the other versions, and hopefully be lucky enough to try some of the vintage juice, too. I think, even though the current formula is different from the original, No. 19 is still a perfume classic. It stands out from the “clean green” scents that have become so popular. It manages to smell very Chanel with the powedery iris note, and it exudes a certain je ne sais quoi French air.

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The No. 19 EdT is available directly from Chanel’s website. You can also find it at the usual department stores: Neiman’s, Nordstrom, and Saks. Samples are available from The Perfumed Court and The Posh Peasant, which is where I got my sample/decant.

The image is from Chanel and the info on notes is from Fragrantica.

Misia by Chanel (Les Exclusifs)

April 9, 2015

Notes: iris, Turkish rose, Grasse rose, violet, orris root, benzoin, and tonka bean.

Misia Sert was a close personal friend of Coco Chanel. Misia was also something of a cultural icon in Parisian society, hosting a salon in her home for artists and serving as a muse. Both Toulouse-Lautrec and Renoir painted her portrait. And now Misia plays the muse again, since she is the subject of Chanel’s latest release for the Les Exclusifs line. Misia the fragrance is Olivier Polge’s debut at Chanel, as he gradually takes over the role of in-house perfumer from his father, Jacques Polge.

All of this is quite a lot of history to sort through, but what does Misia actually smell like? As you might be able to guess from Chanel’s promo image, Misia is practically a celebration of powdery cosmetic notes. The opening notes of powdery iris give off a cold impression, like pressed powder in a cool metallic compact. The iris has an earthiness to it as well, slightly rooty and carroty, although this scent is decidedly not gourmand. It’s much more cool and dry than that. Misia recalls that daily ritual performed by so many women: applying makeup in private before going out to meet the demands of the day.

There are two different strands of rose in the notes here, but I find the rose fairly subtle. The violet is the dominant floral note of the heart for me, which is a funny choice since violet inevitably brings Guerlain cosmetics to mind, not Chanel. I have to think this was a purposeful, slightly cheeky move on the part of Olivier Polge, because Misia is no mere Météorites rip-off.

In fact, I find Misia quite unique and deceptively simple. Lipstick, powder, and cosmetic notes are a common enough theme in perfumery. Misia is interesting in that, though it recalls luxury cosmetic items, the fragrance also projects an air of chilly refinement that borders on austerity. We don’t typically associate austerity with luxury, but Misia unites the two concepts. The coldness of the composition also projects an air of privacy, which is another funny choice given that this perfume is named after a person. This is not a fragrance to evoke nostalgia for fun times spent with friends. Instead, it is a scent that projects self-containment and self-possession. The narrative Misia has to offer us is a complex one, and a little subversive in its contradictions.

The benzoin and tonka bean dry down adds a touch of warmth to the composition, and I do mean just a touch. Misia is simply not the kind of fragrance to come over all warm and sensual. Instead, the composition turns more rich in its own way, now recalling loose powder instead of pressed powder. It’s more earthy as the orris root anchors the base. And that carroty iris note becomes tangible again, bringing this complex composition full circle. Total wear time is between 6-7 hours on me.

Misia is a rare fragrance in that it works as both something to wear in private around the house, and as the finishing touch before going out. However, Misia is no chameleon. This fragrance exists exactly on its own terms, always projecting that puzzling but fascinating air of austere sophistication. And, ultimately, this air of self-possession is probably the best way Olivier Polge and Chanel could pay tribute to Misia Sert herself.

Full bottles of Chanel Les Exclusifs fragrances are available at Chanel boutiques and at Saks and Bergdorf’s in New York. Fortunately for those of us who don’t have easy access to a boutique, The Perfumed Court carries Les Exclusifs, which is where I got my sample of Misia.

Info on notes is from Fragrantica and the image is from Chanel.

Let’s Talk Chanel!

March 8, 2012

This won’t come across as at all original or unique, but it’s the truth: I have an obsession with all things Chanel. From the glamorous Grande Dame herself, to the storied history of the house, to the quilted leather handbags, to Karl Lagerfeld’s eccentricities, I just can’t get enough. With one exception: Chanel’s fragrances.

Possibly the most famous fragrance of all time, Chanel No. 5, just does not work for me. And I feel strangely guilty about it! Every time I’m out shopping at Sephora or Nordstrom, I feel compelled to try a spritz. It will be different this time! I convince myself. But I only ever end up with the same result: the scent of stale baby powder. I have no problem with powdery scents, and I don’t mind smelling a little ‘old lady’ either (I know some cool older ladies). The fact is, No. 5 just doesn’t smell *right* on me.

I’ve gotten similar results from Coco Mademoiselle and No. 19. The only mainstream Chanel fragrance that semi-works for me is Allure and even that isn’t a *love it* experience for me.

Enter: Les Exclusifs de Chanel. It took me an embarrassingly long time to discover Chanel’s Exclusifs line and I’ve only begun exploring it in earnest in the past several months. Based on my own scent preferences, I singled out Sycomore as my first Exclusifs sample.

Notes: vetiver, sandalwood, cypress, juniper, pink pepper.

Considering the name, it’s no surprise that Sycomore is all about doing an elegant woody fragrance. Vetiver is definitely the star of the show, evoking roots and forest undergrowth. There’s a considerable amount of dry smokiness here too. The entire effect is delicate, not dirty. It reminds me of a piece of bark peeling off a tree trunk.

It also has fabulous staying power on me. I recently wore it to my favorite French restaurant, which is a small affair with an open kitchen. I fully expected Sycomore to be obliterated by the cooking smells, but I was happy to note that it was still going strong on my wrist at the end of the night.

So, Sycomore is the first Chanel I’ve really fallen for. I’m currently experimenting with Cuir de Russie, and I have Coromandel and Bois des Iles on my to-try list. I’m hoping that Chanel fragrances & I can finally start getting along.

What are your experiences with Chanel? I’d love to hear from people who really enjoy No. 5, how does it work for you?

Sycomore: $110 for 2.5 fl. oz. // $210 for 6.8 fl. oz. available online from Chanel. I ordered my sample from The Perfumed Court.

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