Tyrannosaurus Rex by Zoologist

Notes: bergamot, black pepper, fir, laurel leaf, neroli, nutmeg, champaca, geranium, jasmine, osmanthus, rose, ylang-ylang, resins, cade, cedar, civet, frankincense, leather, patchouli, sandalwood, and vanilla.

 

Tyrannosaurus Rex is actually my first foray into the world of Zoologist. I have of course seen the brand all over social media. The bottles with uniquely detailed illustrations of animals on the labels can’t help but stick in your mind. I just hadn’t had the opportunity to sample anything before now. Well, I’m starting with the king of the dinosaurs, and perhaps that’s the best way to begin! The brand refers to T-Rex as “a gargantuan scent” and it certainly is. Antonio Gardoni, who burst onto the perfume scene with Maai, is the perfumer here, and it seems fitting that the rockstar of the perfume (and architecture) world is the creator of this larger-than-life scent.

T-Rex starts off loud and gargantuan indeed on my skin. It’s all black pepper, birch tar smokiness, and just a hint of balsamic fir tree. This opening is chaotic, and it really shocked me the first time I tried it. It absolutely conjures up the chaos of the Cretaceous period. The smoke in particular signals danger and the reality of extinction. I have to be honest, the opening is just not wearable in a realistic way for me. I don’t want to get into my apartment building’s elevator and send everyone into a panic because it reeks of smoke! The birch tar is very strong on me. I only need to dab the tiniest amount of perfume onto my skin in order to get a huge impact.

This opening lasts for an hour to an hour and a half on my skin. By the two hour mark, T-Rex undergoes a shift, and the floral heart starts to shine through. This is where I feel the composition really starts to open up and it lets me actually wear it, instead of the fragrance wearing me. I get a big yellow floral from the ylang-ylang. (Everything in this composition is big and over-sized. That’s just the nature of Mr. T-Rex.) The black pepper has calmed down considerably by this point, but there’s still some rich spice from the nutmeg. There’s definitely a red rose note lurking, but it’s not allowed to dominate with so many other notes competing for wear time here. The heart of the composition gives me the impression of a streak of dried blood in a landscape that’s otherwise dense with flora and fauna, perhaps the only remaining visible sign of the once dominant T-Rex.

But don’t think that Tyrannosaurus Rex goes all floral and sweet at the end. Around the four hour mark, the civet note starts to come through on my skin. Here, T-Rex reminds me faintly of Jicky with civet and vanilla notes that are slightly reminiscent of the guerlinade base. But T-Rex isn’t dying down yet. I still get another solid four hours of wear time. The base is animalic, maybe signaling a shift from dinosaurs to mammals, with civet, leather, vanilla, and a gorgeous resinous note. I also get something slightly chocolately on my skin. It’s a dry, earthy chocolate, so I wonder if it’s the patchouli turning slightly edible on my skin. It’s an unexpected note here, but I always welcome a chocolate note!

Tyrannosaurus Rex as a composition isn’t really about whether or not I personally like it (I do, once I get past the opening). It’s about the challenge. It’s the challenge of composing a scent around an extinct animal and a time period during which humans didn’t yet exist. I think Antonio Gardoni pulled it off. T-Rex will definitely be a unique scent in Zoologist’s library of scents. (Unless they plan to do other extinct animals!) T-Rex is well-worth smelling. It’s an absolute must to test it on the skin because this is a composition that develops and shifts according to skin chemistry. That’s part of the challenge, too. As the wearer, this composition gives you the chance to tame the T-Rex beast, or at least get to know the beast a little bit better.

_______________________

Tyrannosaurus Rex is available from Zoologist and from Luckyscent. I ordered my sample from Luckyscent, but Zoologist also offers samples individually and in sample packs.

The photo and info on the notes are both from Zoologist.

And here is an interesting interview between Zoologist’s Victor Wong and Antonio Gardoni.

 

Cadavre Exquis by Bruno Fazzolari & Antonio Gardoni

perfume cadavre exquisNotes: blood orange, camphor, ylang-ylang, tagetes, dried fruit, star anise, chocolate, cypress, benzoin, vanilla, and civet.

When I first heard about Cadavre Exquis, I thought the name sounded rather morbid and I didn’t think I’d be interested in it. Then I heard it was a gourmand and, being the gourmand-a-holic that I am, I suddenly had to try it. As it turns out, the name isn’t actually morbid. It comes from a parlor game played by surrealist artists in the 1920s where each player would add to a story without knowing what the other players had added. The story would then be assembled at the end. Antonio Gardoni and Bruno Fazzolari adapted this concept to assemble a fragrance composition without knowing what the other had contributed. As you might imagine, the result is very interesting.

I wasn’t surprised to see camphor listed in the notes because the opening here is extremely camphorous, to the point of harshness. The blood orange also comes in like a sharp shock of citrus, so the opening here is not a gentle one! It’s sharp and medicinal. It had me wondering how this would develop into a gourmand scent. Fortunately, the camphor effect is short-lived, so you won’t walk around smelling like cough medicine while wearing this perfume.

The blood orange citrus gradually develops into the dried fruit note for me. There is also a yellow honeyed note, which I attribute to the ylang-ylang and the tagetes (otherwise known as marigold). This honey-fruit effect is very appealing. It’s soft and sweet without being too much. Then things amp up. The dried fruit takes on a boozy feel, like rum cake. And then my favorite, the chocolate, makes an appearance. This is a rich, earthy, and quite dark chocolate. This is a gourmand to sink your teeth into.

The civet in the base comes in to amplify the darkness, the earthiness and, it has to be said, the naughtiness here. The base of Cadavre Exquis is sensual, dirty in a sexy way, and verging on the rotten. Is this the morbid part? It will definitely be too much for some people, but I like a bit of civet. The vanilla helps to balance and keep things on the sweet gourmand side of things.

Taken as a whole, Cadavre Exquis is a weird one. It’s certainly compelling and never boring. The main question is: is it wearable? The answer is yes, it’s surprisingly very wearable. It’s wholly inappropriate for the 90 degree weather we’re having right now but, like the gourmand addict I am, I find myself craving it. Needless to say, a little bit of this goes a very long way. I would use some discretion about where you wear this one since it is so odd. But it’s strangely addictive and ultimately beautiful.

________________________

Cadavre Exquis is a collaboration between Bruno Fazzolari and Antonio Gardoni. The fragrance is limited edition and there were only 99 bottles produced. It appears there are still full bottles available on Luckyscent‘s site, which is where I got my sample.

The picture and info on notes are both from Luckyscent.